Low Voltage Issue - Scott??
 

Hello,

My Enticer was showing only 12 V while running with the nav. lights. Noticed it on Sat. while running from Harson's Island back to TBM at dusk / night. This was the first time making a such a run with the lights on, so first time noticing the issue.

See the posting in the tech. section for details, http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...278#post668278

Scott, did you have a similar issue with your's? If so, any fixes or recommendations?

Thanks,
FM

Bigblock,
I have found that I have a few different problems.

The silent choice is hooked in right at the large wiring harness connector at the back or the starboard engine. When it is turned on the voltage drops by 1.5 volts on that side. I also had a connector problem (same one) had to clean and tighten. My voltage gauge is also not accurate unless you smack it a few times:rolleyes: then it will come up a couple of volts. I thought that I had alternator problem but it is working fine after having a re-builder test it.
My plan is to rewire the silent choice with a relay (this should of been done in the first place). I will also look over all connections and clean up the wiring in general.
Some of my gauges will also be replaced I just have not decided what will work for me. So far I'm not a huge fan of the redline gauges. If this is all I have to worry about for a winter project then I guess I should consider myself lucky.
Next weekend I will try my running lights and other Acc. to see how they effect my voltage and if it does it will be the same old thing too many acc hooked up to one circuit. Like some of the other posts stated wire gauge is important this is a Amp issue the voltage drop is caused by the current drain (amps) not the lack of volts.
I also have a wiring diagram (from merc) sitting next to me the purple wire you were asking about is pin #5 on the main harness connector and feeds the +12v side of all the gauges. I think mine just daisy chains from one gauge to the next this may be a problem I would think that it would be better to run a terminal block and run individual wires to the gauges.

Thanks for the update Scott. I'm with you, as long as we know the batteries are getting charged, dealing with the gages is an easy task. I'll have to calculate all loads on that wire and length needed to see what ga. wire is needed. After that, should not be an issue, however this task moved to the low priority.

As far as the relay idea, ever checked the voltage drop on the hatch lift? I did not check mine, but I'm sure it has to be quite a drop. This would also be a good relay application / winter task.

FM

A relay on the hatch actuator would also be a good idea. Should speed it up by about 30%.
That is a winter project for me.

Guys, all good ideas. Are there special relays that should be used in the engine compartment?

I am going to do what Bill suggested and put a relay in for the hatch lift.

I would recommend a high current automotive relays. This is typical 1in square relays you would find in the power distribution box under your vehicle hood. Pin diagrams are typically molded in the cover.

I think that Radio Shack even sells them. I am pretty sure they are 30amp and yes the diagram is on the case.
If Radio Shack does not have them your local car alarm shop will they are used for the remote start and starter interupt.

what you are describing is a 30amp bosch relay. Others make them as well, but the Bosch seem to be the best quality.

Update
 

Hi,
After this past weekend running the boat (great weather in SE-MI!), the voltage guages read 13.5 - 14.0 v while engines were running. Did not measure any v-drops, however it could not be much. I would tend to believe that the issue was with the loose screws in the ground block located in the IP. This fix also resulted in the remaining guages to read equal values between engines, prior the port engine would always be slightly lower than stb engine.
Thanks for the help!

FM

Hatch relay can be gotten from C&P.