35 Outlaw prop update
 

Spent a long weekend at LOTO this last week and had time to collect some data on the props and boat.

Local prop shop fixed some pretty good dings and cups that were flattened from original owner, props are back to stock with just a satin finish.

2007 35 Outlaw Twin 496 HO's B1 4 blade 26P, X drives, 1.50 ratio

Water condition-light chop maybe 6"
Time 9:00 am Sunday on LOTO so not a huge amount of boat wake
Air temp 81 degree low humidity
Water temp 70+ degree
1/4 tank of fuel (185 gal. max) 2 passengers 500 lbs. and 40 ponds or so of cooler

Time to plane 7-8 seconds - 3 different runs
Trim Tabs all up, boat doesn't seem to need them to correct port/starboard list but only way to hold 30 MPH or slightly slower and plane is tabs all down (rarely in this condition)

3000 RPM 35 MPH Trim 1-2
3500 RPM 44 MPH same
4000 RPM 53 MPH same
4500 RPM 63 MPH Trim 2 +
4800 RPM 67 MPH Trim 4 This was WOT for a solid 90 seconds I could trim up a bit more and gain some RPM but no speed increase

I think this boat/engine combo from other write ups would do 72 or so. I'm pretty happy as it stand but 70 MPH and 5000 RPM would be nice if I didn't have to give up a lot of the bottom end. I have a bblades test form filled out but going to wait till winter to send them in any suggestion though on what someone else with same type of boat has used would be appreciated.

I would assume more like 74 with your set up. (my boat did 72 with twin 496 HO's)

Why did you take the cup out? "Cup" is what carries the bow and gets the hull out of the water and gives you speed.

Prop shop "fixed some pretty good dings and cups that were flattened"..... I would never remove the cupping intentionally or have it removed. One blade I could see it was flattened it had the large nick the other very slight nicks but at least two blades had some cup missing.

Thanks for the info I appreciate that! Was yours in salt water or fresh?

My boat was in Georgia 0n Lake Lanier for 2-3 years before I came down to salt water. It ran a very consistent 72 trimmed out and settled in.

I thought a 35 was more of a 74 MPH boat with HO's... could be wrong.

I assume they are 28 pitch? Either way, once you try Bravos with cup you'll notice that it carries the bow better and tracks better. Nice boat either way!

Do you have any #s before the prop work?? Your getting alot of slip!!
20% at 3500 and 16% at 4k..

I am getting 9.5 % at both rpms ranges and you should be there too.. with the higher x you have, you should be seeing more speed.. (used 25p in b blades slip calc as suggested by Brett about bravo props running small)

Try some other stock 26's or 25m+s! Or just send these to blades. Definitely should be cruising at 3500 closer to 50 in flat water.

Actually using Mercury's prop slip calculator its a bit worse than that but thanks NAILIT for the information that's what I was looking for other folks experience. With props before repair getting on plane was 3-4 seconds worse boat did not feel as stable and picked up a couple MPH in most RPM ranges.

I will run all these again but for sure I was not in flat water on LOTO will be back on chain of mud in Illinois this week and do the numbers again but I also did the same runs with similar results in Lake Michigan a few weeks back.

72mph,gps,freshwater,26 bravo.s,,,,

Sounds like your on the right track.. I would still see if a friend a as some stock 26s to see what the difference is..

Thanks Twin Spins thats pretty much what the boat test mags said in 2007

Yea no one I know has any but I have a couple more tests to run just to verify but the thing sure has some pretty high slip numbers, bblades is very close to me so they will get them in the winter and I may take advantage of thier prop test program.

I was just talking to Brett on Friday.. he mentioned the first suggestion would be to try spinning them IN which promotes bow lift. (Keithatlanta also had good results). I was going to try thi s weekend but the trip is about 14 miles so I will wait till I can just go out and test them. I Don't want to spin in reverse to long.

Just another option you could do with yours...

Just curious changing prop rotation is just shifter cable adjustment/change I thought? I didn't think there was a downside or issue with changing rotation permanently that way? Why would you not want to run it that way or are suppose to swap drives for permanent rotation change??

It is just a change to the shift cable position at the helm.

You can test the results by switching the props on the drives and then shifting into reverse to go forward.

The trick is teaching your brain to shift opposite of the norm.
If you like the results, switch the cables in the box and you are fine. There is no problem in the outdrives.

Brett

LOL Although this seems easy, its not...

I tested mine years ago but never forget docking that day... Complete insanity....

Brett, how long should anyone run drives by just switching props?. I was going to try this weekend, but the trip is about 14 miles one way. I have by a few that it should be fine, but I would not want to have to idle 14 miles back if we have an issue??

LOL....man I do not need more stress docking my boat!!!!

You dont realize that your brain picks up on shifting and driving automatically like when you blink... You start drifting toward the dock and your arm puts it in reverse but your brain is still trying to figure out what to do...

You are bringing back good memories that were actually pretty funny. I was only docking, I cant imagine trailering it that way! The "F" work came out of my mouth so many times in 30 seconds that day that I might have broken a few records...

No I can imagine for sure. If I was to try it like Brett suggested I would drop it in the water take it out for 1/2 hour to an hour and decide how it handles then just bring it back and put it on trailer. The thought of bringing it back to put on the trailer and just straight docking to pull the thing out makes me concerned!

If you are nervous swap the props, take out 4 screws and pull your throttle out. Swap each cable from forward to reverse/vice versa and you are done. Takes 15 minutes but dont drop the screws down in the hole. Ask me why I know this...

That way, you cant screw up.... all is the same.

The drives dont care...they dont know that the shifters are not pointing in the proper direction.

The upper driven gear of a bravo drive provides counterclockwise rotation when engaged by the clutch,
the lower driven gear provides clockwise rotation when engaged by the clutch.

Where the cables are positioned in the shifter mechanism determines if they "push" or "pull"
which in turn, rotates the shift fork to move the cone into either the upper or lower gear.

So i could just change helm control and leave that way.. my drives have over 500 hrs possibly. I was hesitant to leave that way, but sounds like its shouldnt be issue.. will prop still wait till after this trip since we will be hauling over an hour way from home!! Thanks JT

Had the same boat. 28's are lazy. Run 26 labbed on the limiter.
Should do 71

Thanks that's what I was looking for. So far that's my plan send em to Brett in off season

X2. Mine was the exact same. 28's are harder to get on plane too.

Thanks!

We were in LOTO last weekend with the boat had a blast this was our 3rd year down man that 8 hour drive pulling the boat sucks but lots of fun at LOTO.

That 496 has to be on the limiter to push that boat to 70,
pull your turbulators in the exhaust too. Will not hurt a thing,
and will help you get that last little bit of pull u need. I think someone
gained 5-8 horse on a dyno with em pulled a few years ago.

My boat is different in that it is a center console and I have Yanmar power but I have the same props and drives as you with the same ratio. My props have had cup added but I run 49 mph at 3500rpm and 55mph at 3900rpm+ which is my top end, I would expect that your boat is lighter and more efficient than mine I am surprised you only run 44mph at 3500rpm. I also have a set of 28p bravos and my top end goes up to 57mph with those but they are stock. Also you should be getting more rpm than that with a light load on 496HO's at WOT.

If you take a grinder to the trailing edge of the blades you can add some cup back but it takes a steady hand to not f them up. you don't need to remove any material just need to make an edge that gives the trailing edge of the prop some cup. Look around at some other boats or at a new prop and you will see what I mean.

yes if you think about right now one drive is in reverse and the other in forward when the boat is moving forward you are just switching which drive is doing what won't hurt anything. I changed my props to spinning in and pick up a .2mpg which doesn't sound like much but it is almost 10%, minimal speed change but I only run 40 or 45 most of the time.

If you are interested in maximizing your cruise speed, and still maintaining great top end, please consider the P-5 X's. They will run as fast as Bravo I's and out cruise any 4 blade. When you lab the Bravo's and reduce cup to gain rpm, you will gain some top end, but lose even more cruise speed over the stock Bravo 4 blades.

Thom

That's interesting for sure I'll check out the website for pricing or do I just call? Curious as to how much top end I would lose? From all the info I think top end on this boat would be 72 with labbed 4 blades.

P5X's should out cruise the Bravo 1 props but the top end is up for debate. The debate is with the performance numbers the boat is currently producing.
Do you have actual numbers with the props you have now? If your slip is high, the P5X's should gain some speed across the board. If the slip is low, you may only see mid and low speed gains with top speed losses of 1-4 mph. We have P5X props for testing without buying if you desire.

Also, there are Bravo 1 Lab Finishing options that allow for better overall performance without sacrificing cruise.

Brett

awash, how does your boat run at 50 or so? Does it seem to run flat or bow up. I can tell when mine needs some trim b/c it seems like its running flat and dragging. A lil trim, bow comes up and it loosens up. Could help with your high slip!

I just switched my props and levers at helm and will try spinning IN to get the bow up better. If that doesn't work then I will either have to try some props or lab my 25s. As soon as i win the bblades $400 certificate it will be good!! lol

Actual numbers at the beginning of this thread and slip is pretty high. From other folks in this thread and another I'm pretty sure 27P is not the way to go. Thom helped with an option that sounds interesting. I may take you up on the P5-X to test but I want to test one more time. For me I'll take the higher cruise speed I don't run at WOT much so if I get 5100 rpm and 72 mph vs 5100 rpm and 69 mph but pick up cruise speed that makes the 5 blade interesting enough to try.

Mine needs to be trimmed up at 50 otherwise lot of hull in water I usually run between 2-3 on trim. Have never needed tabs unless I drop them a little in rough water.

I have to agree so much with Keith. Swapped my props for testing and only had to anchor close for the beach in a current and while you know they are backwards. When you need the boat to move your body forgets glad I played away from everyone haha