BBlades.... B1/Herring/Hydromotive?
 

Currently running a stock B1 22p on a 23ft stingray (roughly 3500lbs). Turning a B1 with 1.50 gears about 5850. 434 made 533hp at that said level. Motor setup now makes 618hp and is setup to turn to 6300-6400. I have pretty much accepted the fact that i need to start from scratch on a nee prop setup but what do you or anyone suggest? The boat originally had a 23p rev4 on it and was absolutely pathetic. Bad porpoising and no speed. The B1 helped. Seemed to lift bow as well as stearn slightly but even with the B1 i feel like i can point the nose to the sky and it wont really get the boat loose enough (lifting stearn) like it needs to be. What do you or anyone suggest? Boat does not chine walk and is very planted. But i am also trying to prop it to spin 6200-6300 to be somewhat safe.

Sorry for the delay in response. It has been rather busy around here lately.
A couple things come to mind.
First, we have propped numerous Stingray's with Rev 4 props with good success. We have Labbed most of them to get the best results but stock castings have also done well. In most cases the Rev 4 will have more trim reaction than the B!'s
Next, I'm surprised a little that you are not turning the 22 B1 a little higher in the R's with 615 HP. That being said, what speed are you seeing at 5850 rpm?
Have either of these props been worked or repaired?

Brett

Brett i have since spoken to Brad. I am turning 5850 @ about 71-73 GPS when it was the old setup (533 hp) New setup just came off dyno and made 618hp. looking for fastest topend and cruise speed. I don't pull anyone on a tube or ski's and not fast cornering. The B1 just feels as though it still doesn't get the stern up out of the water enough to get it loose feeling. Does not chine walk. The Rev 4 bogged bad and had a bad porpoise to it over the slightest trim. Did not like the Rev4 at all. B1 was night and day better and a little faster. I will be water testing saturday with old prop (stock 22P B1) to see where i land. Was looking at what the affects of a labbed Hydromotive quad 4 would do over a labbed B1? Looking to spin motor to 6200-6300.

The Q4 definitely creates more stern lift. The down side to that is the Q4 has less bow carrying capacity.

Brett

With the B1 currently i can stick the nose sky high if i want. It feels like the boat certainly has the power to lift the bow via trim at will?

Let me know how the 22 B1's ran and the performance numbers. Potentially we can work with the propeller you already own.
Or we can use our test program to test a variety of propellers from a variety of manufacturers. No other propeller company offers a program like this or the modifications and Lab Finishing we can offer.
http://bblades.com/propeller-test-program/

Brett

Spinellie bros
 

Try spinellie bros I had great luck with them, Doug is the owner, give hm a shoot

Jj

Sounds to me like you need a shorter drive. How far below the bottom is the center of your prop shaft?

You have likely reached the limits of your hull's design. You CANNOT just continue to add HP to a boat and expect it to continue to perform linearly. You would likely be much better off taking your 618HP and putting it in a 29' Fountain, 29' Lavey or something else with a higher caliber of marine architect design, as well as at race proven speeds.

Our hull hits a wall at 74 and it'll start to get squirrelly. A little driving through it and it is good up to the upper 80s, though I don't know if I want to go that fast in it. That was from the great DocRoc who is no longer with us. Also a shorty isn't needed till mid 80s. I had one at 72 and all it did was make more problems. We should talk and share some trials and failure in our quest for speed in this hull.

ACrooks69 - That is not always true. IF the drive is too low than you have to over trim to cavitate ( loosen up ) the prop. My first boat was a Glastron Carlson CVX-18 and the engine was installed at least an inch too low. The cavitation plate was 1/2 inch below the bottom of the pad. ( running surface ) When I trimmed the drive it would actually catch the water and pull the transom down. I raised the engine and drive 2 inches and gained 10 MPH from this modification only. At the time the boat wasn't doing 80 MPH. The reason the engine was mounted so low is the stock risers hit the underside of the engine cover. When I raised the engine I installed aftermarket exhaust.

Tinkerer - The OP and I have the same boat (different year) with the pretty close weight and similar power. I was just telling him not to waste his money on a shorty, because I have already tried it and the results were not worth the investment. Now m old 20ft Searay with 430hp went form 70 to 75 GPS with greatly improved handling when going from a standard Gen 2 Alpha to an Alpha SS. I started out handling limited and ended up power limited. I upgraded boats shortly afterwards so I never got a chance to throw more power at it.

You made a blanket statement " Also a shorty isn't needed till mid 80s. I had one at 72 and all it did was make more problems." That statement is not always true. That was all that I was stating.

Sorry you misunderstood when I said "Our hulls". I was implying we have the same hull. No blanket statement there. And I do agree with you if somebody had said that as a blanket statement.

I am finally going to dip it this weekend to see how it does so i can report back to BBlades for new prop recommendations. When the motor was making 533hp it would run low 70s easy and consistent with an off the shelf B1 and stayed very much planted. No chine walk and never squirrely. I had my risers extended to dry to tip (exhaust and water meet 26" after top of bend in riser and is 3" from actual exit to atmoshpere). Now we are just trying to figure out exactly how much room should be allowed to pass water out of the waterjacketed portion of pipe and still keep system fairly pressurized? Each jumper hose is basically 1" inside diameter so would i need basically 1" worth opening for the water to exit to tail pipe? Keep in mind i know not in one place I'm speaking in terms of AREA between inner (3") and outer 4" in 3/16th or 5/15th holes in the sealed baffling.

Tinkerer you are somewhat correct though. The old motor setup really felt like it maxed out the hull and that was at 72-74gps mph. There were some things over the winter i had need to change and swap out anyway so i decided to go ahead and bump the power up anyway with a compression change, cam and valvetrain change. I'd just like to make what i have work as efficient as it possibly can.