Engine build recommendations 454/502/or BOOST
07-15-2014 | 08:13 PM
#11
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From: Chestertown, MD
It's been thought of trust me! Haha it's also the reason I considered changing the 454. $10k engine or more in a $5k boat! Hahaha actually paid 10 for it and with it being in great shape (sub 100hrs) it's worth the build to me. My dad has exact same setup. So it's worth it to me at least.
07-17-2014 | 02:40 PM
#12
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From: Ontario, Canada
I really like the way you ran those hoses across the top, is that only doable with a specific thermostat housing?
Hey guys some of you may know my boat, but with bad luck and lack of funds the engine boat build will not see water till next year as priorities always hit in summer. (HVAC TECH) so I'm outsourcing to see what my OSO family would think to best fit my wants and driving behavior.
I'm tossing the idea between 3 engine builds that are doable for next season. With wants to maybe attempt a poker run with the big boys just to be out there In the Environent. I only have 2 seasons of seat time and managed low 70's in my IMP. Hull is straight, perfect x-dimension and nice trim with the better TRS 4-blade Spinelli 25 pitch. Boat has maybe 80hrs since 87' when new. So here's the list.
1). Current set up allowed low 70's with borrowed 23 pitch @6500
850 Holley
Team G intake
Solid roller
Custom comp cam 292 .693/.695 @ .50 degree on 106 Intake Lobe Centerline.
781 oval port (ported and polished bowls and ports) with 2.25/1.88
Approximate compression is 10:1's.
Bore is still 4.250 and 4.00 stroke.
Stelling dry exhaust w/ dampers ( exhaust is probably worth more then boat I know). HP=unknown
Just ordered file fit rings so I can change pistons and ring gap if build desides to change.
2) Finish build with dyno sheet and sell to build 502/540 n/a
3). Keep 454 change to hyraulic roller with cam change, sell heads, or change pistons, for lower compression and find a nice older B&M 250 or equivalent blower is great shape. I would also install 4- bolt main caps (currently 2-bolt with all ARP Hardware)
4) or the cheapest route (probably smartest). But complete build call Bob Madera and change to hydraulic roller with Morels and maybe switch to 3-blade and hope to keep it in the 70's???
Thoughts ideas or criticism for still owning a tank is always allowed. I'm wanting to get more seat time and plan on getting better driving at WOT. Thank you for any input.
This was the only shot I have of the headers as I was starting disassembly.
I'm tossing the idea between 3 engine builds that are doable for next season. With wants to maybe attempt a poker run with the big boys just to be out there In the Environent. I only have 2 seasons of seat time and managed low 70's in my IMP. Hull is straight, perfect x-dimension and nice trim with the better TRS 4-blade Spinelli 25 pitch. Boat has maybe 80hrs since 87' when new. So here's the list.
1). Current set up allowed low 70's with borrowed 23 pitch @6500
850 Holley
Team G intake
Solid roller
Custom comp cam 292 .693/.695 @ .50 degree on 106 Intake Lobe Centerline.
781 oval port (ported and polished bowls and ports) with 2.25/1.88
Approximate compression is 10:1's.
Bore is still 4.250 and 4.00 stroke.
Stelling dry exhaust w/ dampers ( exhaust is probably worth more then boat I know). HP=unknown
Just ordered file fit rings so I can change pistons and ring gap if build desides to change.
2) Finish build with dyno sheet and sell to build 502/540 n/a
3). Keep 454 change to hyraulic roller with cam change, sell heads, or change pistons, for lower compression and find a nice older B&M 250 or equivalent blower is great shape. I would also install 4- bolt main caps (currently 2-bolt with all ARP Hardware)
4) or the cheapest route (probably smartest). But complete build call Bob Madera and change to hydraulic roller with Morels and maybe switch to 3-blade and hope to keep it in the 70's???
Thoughts ideas or criticism for still owning a tank is always allowed. I'm wanting to get more seat time and plan on getting better driving at WOT. Thank you for any input.
This was the only shot I have of the headers as I was starting disassembly.
07-17-2014 | 11:17 PM
#13
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Posts: 11,332
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From: chicago
If your gonna do the stroker , I'd keep the bore size at its current 4.250 or minimal over bore to true things up. No point in going .060 over unless the bores need to go there. I'd rather have the cylinder wall thickness over the minimal gains the extra 14ci will offer.
As far as a stroker giving you a better cruise speed because of the additional torque down low, it really doesn't work that way. If you had a 454 and a 496 that both make 500 ft lbs at wot , but the 496 makes an extra 30ft lbs at 3500rpm over the 454, you'll still swing the same prop pitch. Without more pitch, you simply can't increase cruise speed. Efficiency, possibly.
If i had a budget to stay within, and my option was a 496 with 781 iron heads, or a 454 with AFR, Brodix, or dart heads, I'd take the smaller 454 with better flowing, lighter weight, better structured heads all day long. The additional power from the better flowing heads, and higher allowable compression, will outperform the gains from simply adding 40 cubic inches. If you can do both the stroker kit AND the new heads, then obviously that is a no brainer.
As far as a stroker giving you a better cruise speed because of the additional torque down low, it really doesn't work that way. If you had a 454 and a 496 that both make 500 ft lbs at wot , but the 496 makes an extra 30ft lbs at 3500rpm over the 454, you'll still swing the same prop pitch. Without more pitch, you simply can't increase cruise speed. Efficiency, possibly.
If i had a budget to stay within, and my option was a 496 with 781 iron heads, or a 454 with AFR, Brodix, or dart heads, I'd take the smaller 454 with better flowing, lighter weight, better structured heads all day long. The additional power from the better flowing heads, and higher allowable compression, will outperform the gains from simply adding 40 cubic inches. If you can do both the stroker kit AND the new heads, then obviously that is a no brainer.
07-21-2014 | 03:54 PM
#14
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From: Chestertown, MD
If your gonna do the stroker , I'd keep the bore size at its current 4.250 or minimal over bore to true things up. No point in going .060 over unless the bores need to go there. I'd rather have the cylinder wall thickness over the minimal gains the extra 14ci will offer.
As far as a stroker giving you a better cruise speed because of the additional torque down low, it really doesn't work that way. If you had a 454 and a 496 that both make 500 ft lbs at wot , but the 496 makes an extra 30ft lbs at 3500rpm over the 454, you'll still swing the same prop pitch. Without more pitch, you simply can't increase cruise speed. Efficiency, possibly.
If i had a budget to stay within, and my option was a 496 with 781 iron heads, or a 454 with AFR, Brodix, or dart heads, I'd take the smaller 454 with better flowing, lighter weight, better structured heads all day long. The additional power from the better flowing heads, and higher allowable compression, will outperform the gains from simply adding 40 cubic inches. If you can do both the stroker kit AND the new heads, then obviously that is a no brainer.
As far as a stroker giving you a better cruise speed because of the additional torque down low, it really doesn't work that way. If you had a 454 and a 496 that both make 500 ft lbs at wot , but the 496 makes an extra 30ft lbs at 3500rpm over the 454, you'll still swing the same prop pitch. Without more pitch, you simply can't increase cruise speed. Efficiency, possibly.
If i had a budget to stay within, and my option was a 496 with 781 iron heads, or a 454 with AFR, Brodix, or dart heads, I'd take the smaller 454 with better flowing, lighter weight, better structured heads all day long. The additional power from the better flowing heads, and higher allowable compression, will outperform the gains from simply adding 40 cubic inches. If you can do both the stroker kit AND the new heads, then obviously that is a no brainer.
Last edited by KRAUSMOTORSPORTS; 07-21-2014 at 03:56 PM.
07-22-2014 | 08:18 PM
#15
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Posts: 1,037
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From: FredVegas, Va
I wouldn't run pro comp heads on my weed eater...
Good luck to your dad.
Go over to yellowbullet.com and search pro comp heads....when you have a lot of free time. Be careful going over there....you've been warned, lol.
Good luck to your dad.
Go over to yellowbullet.com and search pro comp heads....when you have a lot of free time. Be careful going over there....you've been warned, lol.
07-24-2014 | 09:46 AM
#16
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From: Chestertown, MD
07-24-2014 | 09:49 AM
#17
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From: Chestertown, MD
The pro comps were on a 427 for a car. So far two months running it hard and no issues. But yes I've heard horror stories as I've been reading. And yellowbullet.... I'm well aware I'm on Svtperformance a lot. And the nudy thread pics on yellowbullet.....wow! Now people on OSO will be looking for them if they didn't already know!
07-24-2014 | 04:43 PM
#18
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From: FredVegas, Va
The pro comps were on a 427 for a car. So far two months running it hard and no issues. But yes I've heard horror stories as I've been reading. And yellowbullet.... I'm well aware I'm on Svtperformance a lot. And the nudy thread pics on yellowbullet.....wow! Now people on OSO will be looking for them if they didn't already know!
07-24-2014 | 11:44 PM
#19
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2
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From: Meadow vista Ca
Second that stay 454 with good alluminum heads will be waaaay better than 496 , plus better rod ratio for longevity call Ron iskenderian "isky cam" he will make a custom bump stick with steel gear, keep lift under .700 for valvetrain reliability Ron will dial you in and you will Fly past that iron head 496 plus you'll loose 40 lbs off the transom and you can run one compression point higher with alluminum heads
