I look at it this way, my current RPM is 4600. With better heads, intake and cam I will be able to spin more RPM, plus with more power who knows what i'll get out of it?? I'd be happy with 55 on GPS

I love u man. U got to get a life man. Most real people ask if they are not sure about something. Unlike u I know I'm not an expert. Since your the best SHOW me where I said I was and expert. Problem is u can't. Since you are ignorant u have to find ways to put others down. This poor fella asked about some help and u got to go ****ing up the thread. Find a big truck open the hood put your head in and SLAM it shut. U got problems you **** for brains.

OK, I'm just gonna ask....please stop.

We are all here because we love boating and speed. We are also here to help each other.

That's why I joined OSO

I'm done. Problem is Slow ***** (SB) will never stop till he gets the last word in. He has problems. Good luck with the engine this winter. Keep posted how it turns out.

I run a 350ho 330hp vortec motor with a holley 650 carb performer, rpm intake, msd ignition, roller rockers, and revolution marine wet exchaust and I picked up about 7 to 10 mph on a 21 ft hull 24 degrees with a ss prop 23 pitch. good luck

I just picked up a Vortec 350 short block for $80!!!

My Saturday night just got more interesting...

I believe I need to change the flywheel in order to do this engine swap, right?

Everything else should bolt right up.....

Flywheel and starter I believe. Is there still a spot for the fuel pump on those late engines?
Was it a boat engine? Changing the cam?

Jeff

If you have a earlier shortblock in good running order, I don't see any reason the Vortec shortblock will be of benefit. IMHO.

Other than that the Vortec will have the hr roller lifter stuff.It will cost more than the $80 you spent on that short block to get that for your 88 motor
Those parts aren't a ton of $$$ new from GM though.

It would be worth the 80 bucks just for the roller items.

Does your 88 have center bolt valve covers? If so the flywheel will be the same (1 piece rear main) and the starter will interchange (it should even if it is an earlier block). That being said, I would spring the money and upgrade to the small gear reduction starter while the motor is out. That way if it craps out it is easier to change than the older, larger starter.

My engine is a hodge podge of parts. It has older style valve covers and a choke stove on a Rochester carb. I did run the block number once, IIRC it was a 2 piece block. I'm gonna peek at it tomorrow morning.

Even if my block is a one piece rear main, i want an engine I know is solid. Everything the shop I bought it from said was a lie. This boat had a car water pump on it, the impeller wasn't changed as claimed, the wiring looked like Ray Charles did it....and so on.

Here's my block specs....

14010207
80-85
350
car & Truck 2 & 4-Bolt Passenger

Ok, took your advice guys and called a stock car buddy. He has a couple sets of heads and a few intakes I can get ALL for cheap. I will be grabbing them tomorrow. I also pulled the engine on my boat today. I will upload pictures tomorrow.

So we pulled the engine yesterday. Here's some photos....

http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps10da03f8.jpg

http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...psaadb9990.jpg

http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps04960105.jpg

http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc62a4aa5.jpg

http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse29380f6.jpg

As you can see, it's an older engine in an 88 boat. Also, you can see the cracks in the one engine mount that I pumped full of two part epoxy. I hope to make an exploratory cut within the next few days, before I put up the boat for the winter.

If you are still going with newer 1 piece rear main block you will need a flywheel and coupler. The starter will work as long as you stay with the same tooth count flywheel.

I didn't think I'd need a coupler, thanks for the advice. Too bad, my old one looks like new.

Okay, 1 more thing, if you have a newer style bellhouse (you say you have some mis match parts) that went with the 1 piece block you can use the newer triangle style coupler. If you have the old style 2 piece bellhouse, you have to get the retro-fit one piece coupler because the new style won't fit in the older smaller bellhouse. The retro fit coupler can be used in the new style bellhouse though. Hope this makes sense.

My coupler is a triangle. And my bell housing is a one piece with the small inspection cover in the front.

Thanks!!

Any chance there is an extra set of heads that can be purchased?

What are you looking for exactly?

I am looking to upgrade to the same, or similar set up that you are.

My boat has twin 350 Mags (260 hp), I am under the impression with the Vortec heads and RPM intake I should be able to make close to 320-330'ish hp.

To truly optimize the engine and take advantage of the heads, you need to upgrade the cam. But, according to my machinist, he said 320 ish is common with an upgrade like this. I'd love to see actual numbers from a dyno though.

Well, dropped off the block to the machinist. He said that I need to go .030 over, because of some cylinder wall scoring. Looks like the pocket is already getting drained!!