outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

the member who put the jet engine on an arneson in that 25 cat advised me to use tef gel.

so far everything i put it on is still on the threads and nothing has seized or has even remotely stuck or grew that dusty corrosion junk, even on the fittings outside the boat.

side note to the other members, your slackin, i need 9 more likes to have a 2 to 1 ratio

Wildman_grafix

I use this type, no issues in 10 years of salt. I use a little Vaseline on the O ring.

https://www.stainlessmarine.com/prod...-sea-strainer/

kidturbo

Been considering that. However it will need to be machined out of a very thick high grade aluminum chunk to withstand the torque,, if required. Already purchased a 1/2" drive 20v impact just to keep in the boat. So would have both a breaker bar and hammering options onboard. Goal is to get these strainers opened quickly if they plug up while on the water. Like seems to be my luck boating around here.. But yesterday, I was about your 3/4" air gun idea. Was just moments away from going smoke wrench on em.

Clean design, simple Vband clamp. Looks pretty idiot-proof to me.

Keith Atlanta

The V Band style always leaked in my boat. Could never get it to work and I dont trust the plastic top. Both times I got the plastic top it was injection molded plastic, maybe somebody makes a lexan top, but I didnt care for them.

Like the other guys I made a spanner. I took a piece of 4 inch steel U-channel and notched teeth that fit in the holes, welded a 2 foot long 1/2 inch extension rod to it then open with a standard 1/2 ratchet. Hides away like the transom light rod.

underpsi68

I ran this and never had any issues getting the top off. Twist the center by hand. Never had any leaks either. Lexan top. They make a larger one also.

resurrected

With your fabrication skills, I'm sure you could come up with a backwash system!

kidturbo

That's actually not a bad idea, since she has a water tank and pump onboard. Already a line ran thru the engine bay for a swim deck wash down.

Here is the semi-final top fix. Haven't decided if will dill hole for a thru-rod or not. As stands, 1/2" drive center, 1" square outside, 3/4" tall. That way you can put the impact gun in the center and a big ass crescent wrench on the outside. If that doesn't do it, then I give up.




Next fab project of the week, fixing another important piece of non-saltwater safe hard anodized aluminum. Pulled the Stbd seawater pump apart today. Only a few missing vanes off the back impeller. But what was the same as port engine side, the 2 into 1-1/2" manifold. The only piece of anodized alum in the seawater system, and just about to blow a gasket.. As ya can see, at under 80hrs, or the first pump rebuild, this manifold looks great on the outside. Inside, not so much..

So I purchased a few extra 1" NPT 316L plates from Hardin, along with a pump rebuild kit, Dropped everything off at my stainless welder and said, give me back a couple full 316L SS rear exit 1-1/2" hose barb manifolds that look similar to this thingy. I have faith he can deliver a 1000hr piece of hardware.

Big_Baller

very cool project. I am sure your fabricator can make something much stronger but not sure the timeline on that, I had this one in a box in my basement, looks to be made of a ballistic nylon might help with corrosion in the mean time, lmk if interested. the discoloration on second pic is some old tape.

kidturbo

I'd heard they made those manifolds out of nylon, but yours is the first one I've ever seen. If the stainless doesn't pan out, I'll certainly be in touch.

Big_Baller

sounds good you can have it for the cost of shipping if it would help you.