Stringers going back in
 

1993 Profile, 33" twin 502 boat. Got into a soft spot in a rear stringer and before the investigation was done, every stringer was rotten. So going back with new stringers....

i would make the floor removable in case you ever need to get back in there,
that way all the finish work in the cockpit and cabin wouldn't need to be cut open again.

What matieral did you use for the stringers?

Another great winter project!!! Keep up the good work!!!

I don't like the idea using adhesive of glueing in the stringers. Why don't you use west system or another fiberglass based epoxy? Not saying that the way you are doing it is wrong, but I think the other way is stronger. I dont see fiberglass adhering to the adhesive that you are using. I might be wrong though.

I'll ask, thanks for bringing that up. I am not personally doing the work, I'm a great tax/CPA/investment guy, but outside of that I don't have the talent to do much else! If I tried to tackle that project it would take 2 years and likely I would do a horrible job!

The stringer material is wood, bulkheads are marine plywood. The repairs are being done by a shop locally that only does this kind of work and is very well respected. We discussed once its in he will use a marine engine compartment coating on the entire interior hull and I should not see any rot in the stringers for at least 30 years. I am no technician when it comes to this stuff, my mechanic says this shop does stringers in houseboats for him on a regular basis, has for years, and he has never had a problem and the work has always been exceptional. So I am going with that.

It's tax season and I am swamped, so I only get a chance to see the project about once a week sometimes not as often. I figure he has about a month's more work to get it done. I'll post pics as I get them.

Just my two cents but I would never use 2X material for stringers. We always laminate two layers of 3/4 marine grade plywood for our engine rails. and transoms[ATTACH=CONFIG]565130[/ATTACH]

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thank god my work doesn't look that good, if it did i wouldn't put the boat together and just have people come over and oogle it

Thats is a really nice looking transom assembly cut out for sure!!! I would not even paint it!!

Your last picture is all telling.

Expect the new 2x's to shrink up and loose strength/de-bond. And those screws (2) tieing a stringer to a cross frame member make me cringe. I built a boat when I was seven that looked like that. When I was eighteen I rebuilt a jet boat the right way with marine ply, epoxy, and glass.

Before it goes any further I would really do the job right. Listen to turbo rr on what to use.

Just do a little research on here, you will find the right way to repair. Don't be afraid to ask for help. It's way easier to do it the right way now, rather than finishing up and taking a wave and everything pops lose, or worse.
Don't underestimate the amount of flex these boats take in rough water.

Good luck.

Their method may work fine on houseboats but I don't see this holding up on an offshore boat.

Start over now. Minimum grinding before it gets to far

Never do just 2 coats of vinyl ester resin.

I hope you really like this boat, because now that the offshore community is seeing how its being put together, you will never sell it.....

Thanks for the input, I'm no expert in this stuff. Boat will be repaired professionally, I don't half ass anything.

So are you going to take it somewhere else?

It's a shame you have to cover that up.

Gorilla glue should only be used on that boat that has the screen door for a bottom. Another miracle Cure.

I can almost look past the 2bys for stringers since when I built 68 foot custom sport fishers we laminated seven. 2 by 8s clear fir together to hold the 15000 pounds of 3600 horse Cats and it was fine.

But the swabbing with the gorilla glue worries me. One you don't know what chemical in the glue is going to piss off the resin they use over it

2 unless they grind all the extra Gorilla glue mess they made around the stringers off they have lost a ton of critical bonding area.

The thing that always concerns me when I see people cutting every bit of structure out of a boat to do a stringer replacement job is this.

How is this big wet noodle being supported now ?


Are you assuming your bunks on your trailer are properly positioned for height ? And even if they are , leaving the boat sitting on the bunks with no stringers over a length of time will have the hull settling and most likely having a big Hook permanently glassed into the hull after the stringers are glassed in.

The hull needs to be fully supported at the Chines and the bow and the transom. Let the hull bottom hang or be supported loosely .And crawl under there after you ground out all your old stringers and lay a straightedge on it and make sure the bottom is straight .



I would pull that boat out of that shop and find someone who is reputable in the performance boat fiberglass repair business.

agreed an adhesive will allow movement,, should at least use a Marine grade filler