You have definitely acquired a special piece. Can't wait to see the end result. If you were closer I'd offer my warehouse/shop and help. Keep us posted.

What hull is that? It looks like a old 26 Monza design.

Ok I read back on the previous page where you mentioned it came out of a old Monza mold. That would have been our old Mirage mold that we made off our old 1972 Monza.

We sold the mold to this guy that worked at Tiara after we got out of the boat building business , he built them in his barn at night after work.

He sold them to Century boats after building a few Mirages. Century called them a Century Ultra.

tommymonza,
the chine is concave pretty deep up front, it tapers down as you go back and goes flat about 4 feet from the transom.

26' x 8' 2"

the deck
 

after the first week or so from picking the boat up i mentioned that i thought the deck wasn't cored, light layup yada yada.
well the last place you'd think would be look up instead of crawling down in the guts of the thing.

if you went up and tapped on the deck here and there it ticked like a bad countertop job.
turned out there was lifting eyes on the deck at the first bulkhead right were the fairing comes to a point,
and they leaked.

so the core got cut out and i drilled a couple holes in the bulkhead up aroud the deck and got saw dust plus there was some cabosil type material
between the top of the bulkhead and deck and i think that might have helped save it.

on the other side of the bulkhead i did some exploring and found that the core wasn't rotted, it failed to bond initially and that was what would tick
when you tapped on it.

the core material looked felt and smelled like oak, 2 layers of single ply 1/8 inch thick with fiberglass material in between that looked like the stuff that holds all the
little blocks of end grain balsa together to make a sheet.

here comes about 50 pics

i lucked out in a couple key places that could have been bad, we'll get to it.
you can see in the last 2 pics (previous post) how the core wasn't bonded to the skin
dry fitted divinycel in the forward comparment first, then put mat on them except for 3 inches around the perimeter.

once fitted every piece was marked for location then installed 1 piece a day for 6 days
no pictures of how it was done only after installation, time was a factor.
basicialy :
sqeegee resin onto divinycell and wait for it to start tacking up
roll on some fresh resin lay on and wet out some mat, hurry up and
activate a thick batch of cabosil and trowel it on the deck inside the lines
hurry up and put the piece up and brace it.

next day, repeat but add a step:
tab together yesterdays piece and todays piece but not the edges, just the seam

like i said repeat 6 times then tab it in aroud the perimeter and tab it to the bulkhead w/ 2 layers of 1708 like it was

more

last of them for this side of the bulkhead

ok for the core from the fairing to the bulkhead.
it was intalled the same except the deck was faired with cabosil and ground flat
that way 1 step was already done and there was way less of a rush
basically
resin on divinycell wait for tack
mix fresh resin roll it on
lay on mat and wet it out ( dry roller)

dry fit the pieces, put on some mat except for 3 inches around the perimeter
in the end there was 6 pieces and each piece was only big enough for two braces so
2 pieces went on a day for 3 days total