HART THROB resto / upgrade
11-15-2017, 09:23 PM
#31
optical illusion here the fairing is a triangle but these pictures make it look straight
earlier on i said i got lucky, well there was a void from where the deck coring material ended and the coring for
the bottom end of the fairing starts ( it's the deck where it turns up and the fairing is attached to that)
the void kept the water that leaked in thru the lifting eye points from soaking up into the end grain balsa coring that is in that area of the deck
it's hard to make out what your looking at basically it's the deck and underside of the dash that section that was posted a few days ago
the void was filled with cabosil and was primarily the reason this whole section was just filled / faired, left to dry and ground prior to sticking the core back on,
same as before next days pieces get tabbed to previous days pieces except the perimeter.
once all pieces are up and cured tab in the perimeter and tab to bulkhead w/ 2 layers of 1708
side note :
no more lifting eyes, fact is the boat doesn't even have cleats, and i'm seriously considering not putting the grab rail back on the deck
no holes no leaks right ?
it was put back together the way it looked except the core material, and i made damn sure the "divinycell h80" was facing down
earlier on i said i got lucky, well there was a void from where the deck coring material ended and the coring for
the bottom end of the fairing starts ( it's the deck where it turns up and the fairing is attached to that)
the void kept the water that leaked in thru the lifting eye points from soaking up into the end grain balsa coring that is in that area of the deck
it's hard to make out what your looking at basically it's the deck and underside of the dash that section that was posted a few days ago
the void was filled with cabosil and was primarily the reason this whole section was just filled / faired, left to dry and ground prior to sticking the core back on,
same as before next days pieces get tabbed to previous days pieces except the perimeter.
once all pieces are up and cured tab in the perimeter and tab to bulkhead w/ 2 layers of 1708
side note :
no more lifting eyes, fact is the boat doesn't even have cleats, and i'm seriously considering not putting the grab rail back on the deck
no holes no leaks right ?
it was put back together the way it looked except the core material, and i made damn sure the "divinycell h80" was facing down
Last edited by outonsafari; 11-15-2017 at 10:04 PM. Reason: side note
11-15-2017, 10:04 PM
#32
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Very nice job! Subscribed to your tread! Will follow closely your project and progress! Inalso have a big big project i just started! Will grab a couple of good things and tips from your job!
keep up the good work!
keep up the good work!
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11-17-2017, 02:21 PM
#36
the hatch
obviously this thread isn't happening in the order the work occured, but it should all come together next week.
first thought was make a new hatch, the boat got to that point i went in a different direction.
the boat had 2 hatches on it, it looked like they popped a second hatch gutter off the mold and bonded it onto the boat
then made a second hatch that covered the rear of the cockpit.
both hatches were the same size.
so the the core was removed from both hatches, 1 (the cockpit hatch) was cored w/ the same oak single ply stuff that the deck was
and the other (engine hatch) was cored w/ end grain balsa. this got me thinking and i'll get to that at the end.
first thought was make a new hatch, the boat got to that point i went in a different direction.
the boat had 2 hatches on it, it looked like they popped a second hatch gutter off the mold and bonded it onto the boat
then made a second hatch that covered the rear of the cockpit.
both hatches were the same size.
so the the core was removed from both hatches, 1 (the cockpit hatch) was cored w/ the same oak single ply stuff that the deck was
and the other (engine hatch) was cored w/ end grain balsa. this got me thinking and i'll get to that at the end.
Last edited by outonsafari; 11-17-2017 at 02:35 PM.
11-17-2017, 02:34 PM
#38
once they were de cored and cut to fit in the newly extended engine hatch gutter,
they were fitted into a jig that was fashioned up and cut to the same curve of the hatch.
problem was both hatches were cupped or bowed from basically hanging from their 4 corners
so if you look close theres a board screwd down thru the hatch and into the jig on both sides
it took out the majority of the cup.
then the material was dry fit
they were fitted into a jig that was fashioned up and cut to the same curve of the hatch.
problem was both hatches were cupped or bowed from basically hanging from their 4 corners
so if you look close theres a board screwd down thru the hatch and into the jig on both sides
it took out the majority of the cup.
then the material was dry fit
11-17-2017, 02:42 PM
#39
glassed together 12 inches of 1708 over the seam and patch that filled the blower scoop cutout, mat over the rest 1st layer.
2nd layer just mat then sqeegee resin on the nida core and set it.
next day 1708 tab front and back core edge and bracing, it was hot and getting the cross bracing in was a bust.
2nd layer just mat then sqeegee resin on the nida core and set it.
next day 1708 tab front and back core edge and bracing, it was hot and getting the cross bracing in was a bust.
11-17-2017, 02:47 PM
#40
next day it was one piece and the outside of the bracing to the edge of the hatch was glasssed 2 layers of 1708.
in the hole and thanks to big silver cats thread i would never have thought to use a hot glue gun to hold the cross bracing in place
so they could be tabbed in place.
after that the bottom was sealed off w/ mat, same as the original hatches
in the hole and thanks to big silver cats thread i would never have thought to use a hot glue gun to hold the cross bracing in place
so they could be tabbed in place.
after that the bottom was sealed off w/ mat, same as the original hatches
