I've been lurking & following this thread from the start. I'm amazed at the engineering & fabrication skills. I'm am truly rooting for this to work as expected once it's installed.
Looking forward to seeing it installed & fired up. 👍 |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5a644075f8.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a89de747a7.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1d3a7db282.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fdf7cafda2.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7f0d487a3e.jpg For a long time yesterday was Transmash day. Thermostat housings and piping found their place. One thermostat housing for each bank so engine if forced to keep temp in control. Thermostats are full flow all time to avoid hot spots, they just decide water run through heat exchanger or straight back to waterpump. Piping goes quite complicated but everything is still easy to assemble. piping for each bank are 50mm and common piping 60mm so flow will be good enough if engine need bigger water pump some day. Next thing to do is oil system final installation and modify oil pressure control and oil squirt control valves to higher oil pressure. Then complete fuel system and we are very close to first start! I got idea for auxiliary device drive, old alternator direct drive angle gear is possible modify to belt drive. There is enough room for alternator, crankcase vacuum pump, power steering pump and huge raw water pump. HTD tooth belt and aluminium blank pulleys are in shopping chart. |
Originally Posted by ksalmine
(Post 4802412)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5a644075f8.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a89de747a7.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1d3a7db282.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fdf7cafda2.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7f0d487a3e.jpg For a long time yesterday was Transmash day. Thermostat housings and piping found their place. One thermostat housing for each bank so engine if forced to keep temp in control. Thermostats are full flow all time to avoid hot spots, they just decide water run through heat exchanger or straight back to waterpump. Piping goes quite complicated but everything is still easy to assemble. piping for each bank are 50mm and common piping 60mm so flow will be good enough if engine need bigger water pump some day. Next thing to do is oil system final installation and modify oil pressure control and oil squirt control valves to higher oil pressure. Then complete fuel system and we are very close to first start! I got idea for auxiliary device drive, old alternator direct drive angle gear is possible modify to belt drive. There is enough room for alternator, crankcase vacuum pump, power steering pump and huge raw water pump. HTD tooth belt and aluminium blank pulleys are in shopping chart. |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c6f94e6ad9.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...42a4fc2e50.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...05e623ac9a.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...86d4711303.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b3ce50f3ab.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a8ecc06953.jpg Oil filter housing is ready, Distance between exhaust manifold and oil filter housing is tight, so special oil cooler connectors had to made. All valves are revised and assembled, some modification had to done, of course. I try control oil pressure by piston cooling circuit, when main oil pressure exceed 8bar, piston cooling valve open and squirt all extraordinary oil to bottom of pistons. If oil pressure is still high, Transmash original pressure control valve decrease the pressure. That way piston cooling is as good as possible. Piston cooling control valve can be now adjusted externally. Pre lube pump pressure is pushed to filter housing from orginal Volvo oil pressure contol valve return line, that valve is not in use anymore. One way valve must also be installed. There will be massive bundle of hoses on engine right side... Volvo filter housing is good part to custom applications, easy to modify, large filter surface area, by-pass filter, internal oil thermostat and lot of any kind pressure outlets. |
Originally Posted by ksalmine
(Post 4805289)
Oil filter housing is ready, Distance between exhaust manifold and oil filter housing is tight, so special oil cooler connectors had to made. All valves are revised and assembled, some modification had to done, of course. I try control oil pressure by piston cooling circuit, when main oil pressure exceed 8bar, piston cooling valve open and squirt all extraordinary oil to bottom of pistons. If oil pressure is still high, Transmash original pressure control valve decrease the pressure. That way piston cooling is as good as possible. Piston cooling control valve can be now adjusted externally. Pre lube pump pressure is pushed to filter housing from orginal Volvo oil pressure contol valve return line, that valve is not in use anymore. One way valve must also be installed. There will be massive bundle of hoses on engine right side... Volvo filter housing is good part to custom applications, easy to modify, large filter surface area, by-pass filter, internal oil thermostat and lot of any kind pressure outlets. |
Coming along nicely!
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...21b335cf4d.jpg
Filter housing is in place. Lot of oil hoses need some brackets, otherwise they look awful. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8c7fb58e92.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...870b665dcb.jpg 60mm stainless wastegates are tack welded and location seems to be ok. Wastegate tailpipes will have bend downwards so they fit under swimplatform and doesn't get full of water. Exhaust back pressure control flaps secure 5" main tailpipes from water when engine is shut off. Engine get warm quicker and doesn't smoke at idle when there is exhaust backpressure at idle. Hot exhaust gas flow to intake side and preheat intake air at camshaft overlap peridod, poor man EGR. Flaps are controlled by exhaust pressure and maybe starter pneumatic pressure. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...280ee8c56b.jpg Engine crankshaft back sealing is originally piston ring type labyrint seal, right side in picture. I dont want to use it anymore. Toyota Landcruiser crank seal is plug and play to Transmash! I found nice good quality viton shaft seal. It's double lip seal so I hope it can handle crankcase vacuum. Labyrint seal maybe get too dry from oil and wear out quickly because vacuum never give any oil in seal rings. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c0f14ec991.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...eb524980ae.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bb77415e5a.jpg Big problem is splash plate on crankshaft. engine have to tear down complete so it can be removed. Part is shown by screw driver in picture above. I turn aluminium bronze tip to shaft seal holder avoid splash plate to touch engine block. original splined sleeve is tightened on crankshaft by M72x3 bolt, complete package press splash plate in place. I dont use any parts of that system so I have two options, tear down whole engine or keep plate in place other way, I choose to latter... Hope you enjoy highly theoretical, quite long and complicated update. My english skills are not good but get every day better. Please comment and be free to tell ideas and views about engine and rigging. |
Great update! Impressive work. Who would’ve thought a land cruiser seal would match up perfectly?!
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We all enjoy this, please keep posting. Fantastic engineering, troubleshooting, and problem solving. Bravo!
Your English skills are good, we can all understand you. |
Great work, thanks for the update
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