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-   -   Never again, probably ! (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/restorations-upgrades/367263-never-again-probably.html)

outonsafari 06-19-2021 01:56 PM

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the ski pylon mount and engine mount are 1 piece, didn't like that because it limited front/back movement of the engine regarding prop strut spacing, plus if the pylon end of the mount breaks the engine would have to pulled to pull the mount and get it repaired. doubtful but better safe than sorry.
i cut the mount drilled some holes (3 on each side in a triangle) turned it 180, mounted and torqued it, that located the foot that needs bedded and glassed over.
the pylon lined up pretty good. Now the pylon foot can get glassed before the engine goes in and it can be removed without worrying about the engine.
the blue tape marks max length of engine mount angles so pylon mount can slide back and come out.

outonsafari 06-19-2021 02:21 PM

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Rear mount rubbers had some issues

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I cut the rubbers down and pressed them back in so they still locate center (plumb)

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A spacer got correct elevation, a shim got the spacer level & sqaure to bolt plumb.

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The adjustable bolt is located all around and rotates smoothly

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The weight is on the original top washer and the bottom holds it from lifting out

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The trunion is threaded, rotate the bolt to adjust, big locking nut isn't on yet, everything is just assembled temp to verify the fix would work.


few pages back i was bustin chops on big jimbo down at uncle jim bobs gator wrastlin airboat rides and marine repair for the hackery.

well as it turns out there was a little bit of big jimbo happening over here with the rear mounts.

still waiting to hear if the rubbers are nla or not and new mounts cost alot, then at that point have to get new fronts then have to get new angle, so rather than b-o-a-t, i big jimbo'd it.

outonsafari 06-19-2021 02:34 PM

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everything is painted (except the engine, lazy) for fun i polished up the corrosion on the angle.
gonna put the mounts on the engine and then put the angles on and set width to about 1/4 less than the stringers, the engine has to go in get slid front/back for correct prop/strut spacing then stringers marked for drilling, engine has to come back out overnight so the fresh holes can get resin swabbed, or epoxy swabbed since there is a nationwide shortage of ve resin with a 2 month wait time.
i'm lazy but not 2 months lazy.
put some 8-32's along the bottom of starboard angle to mount cushion clamps for rigging

madbouyz 06-19-2021 03:36 PM

I like what you did with the ski pylon , I have no doubt that I would have done the same .
Let the pylon do its thing and let the engine mount do its own thing .
I bet you can't wait to get on the water and bury the throttle .
Now here's a thought .. when those skiers at the end of the rope get yucked out of the water do they consider the boat pulling them or do they say because of the the location of the pylon that they're being pushed out of the water ? ? :drink: I think I need one of these now .

outonsafari 06-20-2021 02:21 PM


Originally Posted by madbouyz (Post 4794339)
I like what you did with the ski pylon , I have no doubt that I would have done the same .

Let the pylon do its thing and let the engine mount do its own thing .

I bet you can't wait to get on the water and bury the throttle .

Now here's a thought .. when those skiers at the end of the rope get yucked out of the water do they consider the boat pulling them or do they say because of the the location of the pylon that they're being pushed out of the water ? ? :drink: I think I need one of these now .


lemme give ya the broad brush on these ski boats,

anything before 93 is rotted bar non, even the boat in the correctcraft showroom that gets used once a year for a parade lap at the last ski competition of the year (one of the first out of the mold)


anything from 93 to 03 needs 6 grand in upholstery and carpet 3 grand in wet sanding, 2 grand in decals, 1 grand in belts hoses and misc electrical, most likely a prop, cutlass bearings, full service, and the trailer will need bunks bearings tires jack winch and lights.


anything 03 to 13 needs the above list with the addition of 2 very important items,

1. They are stupid expensive

2. They (every model year) have an outdated no longer available digital/computer dash that cost a few grand to be fixed if it can be, but no worries, because used ones are 3-4 grand if you can find it with the added exitement of not knowing if or how long it will last.


2021 models start at 119 thousand dollars,

therefore, anything 2013 and on cost really stupid money and would be well on it's way into the above list but for way more money because they're newer and have more digital computer stuff than the frickin spaceshuttle.

almost forgot, canvas, stereo, amps, speakers and so on will be all wiped out.


so if you want one, buy mine, it needs nothing, the trailer needs nothing, it'll be priced very reasonably with the added bonus of right now you can pick the upholstery since that is the very last thing to get done.
the title is clean, the trailer is registered, it's old so no one wants to steal it for the tower speakers and led lighted cupholders, and unless your ranked in the top couple percent waterskiers in the world, you'd never know the difference between a 1979 and 2021 wake, but your wallet wife and insurance agent will for sure know the difference.

outonsafari 06-21-2021 12:36 PM

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pylon held foot in place while epoxy cabo mix dried over night.
wash blush, shape with grinder and laced on in clockwise 10 layers of 1708, 1200 sqaure inches of material 2 mixes 5 layers at a time.
Both mixes went 17 minutes from add the activator to bubble roll last piece @ 3:1.


outonsafari 06-26-2021 12:29 PM

got new flywheel and dampener, trans cooler lines, engine oil drain hose, trying to get engine painted today but got some rain and switched over to the transmission primed it by putting a grinder handle in the dampener and spinning it. its tilted @ 12* same or close to when installed and it took 60 ounces of fluid
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Spun it up and could hear the fluid pumping, just kept adding until full, cant stop coupler in either gear, hope that means she's good.
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last night around sunset i got all hopped up on 2 canoli and coffee, ospho'd the oil pan and settled into a u boat documentary.
somethings wrong when thats a good friday night.

outonsafari 06-26-2021 04:48 PM

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the shop owner and in the description online told me the new dampeners are made to fit different engines and the ears may need to be trimmed, but it's for the bw trans made to fit ford and chevy flywheels, so no problem there. Non issue.


the new dampener only lines up with 3 bolt holes and it wouldn't make a difference between old and new flywheel.


the new flywheel is metric and although it fits on the crank hubcentric it doesn't rattle around, but it's not snug on the hubcentric.

the holes for bolt to crank are bigger and the dampener holes are threaded 1.25

Is this an issue ?


monday i'll go back to the shop and get the old flywheel back (if it hasn't gone to scrap) just in case,

and i'll get some bolts for the dampener if the new flywheel is ok to work.


more engine BS its always the engine, serial numbers and custom made direct fit parts from the highest praised, highest sought after, highest polished highest priced manufacturer in the world never works without more/other parts and/or some kind of mods.


on another note, WE WON WW2 !
Can anyone stand up and tell the class how metric is even a thing other than a long forgotten footnote in history ?

outonsafari 06-26-2021 07:58 PM

Well i just found out it's the wrong flywheel. Got all the part #'s and a detailed explanation from the guys on the ski boat website.
big thanks went out, now it's a wait till monday game to see if the old flywheel is still around, if theres a restocking fee or if it can even be returned since it was opened and checked out for fitment.

outonsafari 07-03-2021 09:40 PM

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got the old flywheel back yesterday, got the new dampener cut then scribed it with the magnetic pointer thingy, ground to finish.

even tho it uses shouldered bolts it was installed loose on the flywheel so the trans splines would center it, thru the access hole each bolt was pulled loctited and torqued 1/2 way until all were done, second pass got final torque.

funny and i'm going somewhere with that, installing each bolt with loctite and 2 passes to torque took 9 minutes.

i know that because the loctite said 20 minutes to fixture 24 hrs to cure so i set the timer.

today it took 6 hours to install the alternator and sea pump, huh why you ask, well the brackets are cast iron, not bent not worn, not so much as a mark from nuts bolts and washers, the accy's were fine too, original sea pump, later alternator i think because of the electric ignition conversion,

i don't know.

so stock, factory stuff, brackets drilled not slotted no wiggle room, but the belts were off by a mile, alternator 3/16 inch, sea pump off on an angle.
6 hours to cut fit/grind to size, paint and install bushings. The alternator was in and out 20 times.
at this rate expect sea trials to commence, early may ?


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