thanks but I have bravo's already that I might use. If I can find some xr's or imco's when im ready I might go that way.

I have been working on blanking out the back of the transom the last few days so I could go with any option I want.

filling in the drive's and exhaust holes has taken way more time and epoxy then I ever thought it would have. The transome outer skin was 1/2" thick and I wanted it rock solid so I tapered the edges out over 4" and filled it staggered layers of 1708 over lapping each other. It took over 9 layers to get almost flush with the outside. plus a gallon of epoxy.
I'll post some pics soon

Heres some pictures of the back of the boat and the filling of the drive and exhaust holes. I was able to get some epoxy with 404 and air bubbles on. looks rough but it's coming along.
Sunday I'll start hitting it with an air board and some more coats.

We should be able to do just about anything you want done. Looks like a good winter project that we could take the time to do right. Email some interior pic's if possible.

XT

mesurements
 

How is it going Do you still need the mesurements for the engine mounts and center stringer

It's going slow but good thanks for asking my son bought a 24 sea ray and the last few weeks I have been stuck putting a transom in that.

measurements would help. I don't know if there is a difference in years but if you don't mind thanks.


even a picture would help although I think mine is going to be different because I have bravo's and I'm moving my motors out 1 1/2" and up 3 1/2" with drive extensions also.
thanks again Keith

Well it's a pretty bad weekend for boating this weekend so I have dedicated this one to the scarab. After doing the sons transom and dealing with a bad break up with Donna I'm back at grinding and the sweet smell of epoxy curing.
Ok the focus is on the two main bulkheads the one at the helm was and is a pain in the but because of allot of very bad lamination of the old tabbing. Every time I start grinding Im finding holes or pockets where there is no bond.
Now that it's all ground out I laminated two pieces of 1/2" with 1708 and screwed them together with wood screws. Then rounded the top with my grinder and covered them with two layers of 1700.

After the resin was hard I ground of the excess and fitted it to the hull. After it all fit nice I mixed up some epoxy with cabosil and fiber millings I bedded the bulkhead to the hull and filled the gaps where the only two stringers that are not coming out. Tomorrow I will tab it all in with 1700 and start removing the rear bulkhead.

Beef it up on the sides of the hull, al the way to the deck !!!!!

here it is all tabbed in with two layers of 1700.

started to tear out the back bulkhead. It's hard to belive that this boat has not seen water in over a year and when I cut into the old stringers water just pours out it's soaked like a wet sponge.
What would have happened if someone bought this boat and dropped a motor in it and tried to take it out? It makes me wonder how many boats are out there in bad shape?

This thread is baddass! You're doing gods work here!

I Fell Better - Only A Little Though
 

donnawanna, I lucked upon your buildup here. Very interesting to view the skeleton of a Panther. Upon winterizing the marina called and informed me I had 30 gallons of fuel in the bilge! Yikes. They've removed the bolsters and hatch and found 3/4" foam embedding everything, but they see no issues at the fill or top of the tank. They expect a corrosion leak in the bottom of the alum. tank.
Claiming they have past experience with this type repair, they estimate 50 hours labor to remove/replace the helm and saw out under the bench seat that they claim necessary to slide forward and rear lift the tank for a full Remove/Replace job.
I'm asking based on your experience if the extent of dismantling they describe is really required and accurate, and if the time estimate is reasonable?
For background, I have fresh power 365Mags 2 years ago, but I work overseas and am lucky to get in the boat 2-3 times a season. I've kept the interior upgraded and clean and the hull is in great original condition. Hit my Profile for a pic showing the great original graphics. But man, $6-7K more in this boat is killing me.

Last question (I promise). Is there any membranous or liner bladder in-situ repair that can be made to the tank without removal? I read that many tanks have baffles which would preclude simply inserting a big repair bladder inside.

Love your work and would consider it heaven to be able to drag mine home, strip it out and cherry it up myself. ::sad::

donnawanna - I hate to see you go back with bolsters that aren't original - that would be like taking the teak out. (At least my '84 S-Type had teak.) Anyway, if you aren't worried about going back with original drives, I would strongly suggest going back with Kaamas. They are faster than the Bravos and bullet proof, and they came on Scarabs of that era. Only a serious Scarab aficionado would know they didn't go on a Panther. The S-Type is either the same hull or very close.

thanks I would think 50hrs is pretty close but I would beware of the bulk head and the stringers around the tank being good I would check them out real close before they put the fome back around the tank.
I dont know of any way to repair the tank with out pulling it sorry.
how does it run with the 365s and what drives do you have?
I just picked up some jen 5 502s and plan on making 509s .
good luck I hope they dont find anything else wrong. I dont think that 6to 7 k is not a bad investment into a boat you know. I would rather do that then buy someone elses boat for much more and facing the unknown.

I do have the original bolsters. Im not so worried about being original I am kinda a resto-rod type of person but I never thought of Kamma drives hmmm? are they hard to dock?

I couldnt get my tank out without cutting the wall behind the rear seat so I think they might know whats up

Thats a wive's tale. No problems. And the look really cool.

Thanks for your insights. From your pics I'll know to inspect everything once they get the tank out.

It's got just Bravo drives (with the bondo cracking off the speed noses). The boat runs rather well for nothing special being done to it, - I had it to 68 a couple times just to check.

Donnawanna, updated photos? status report?

I have been really busy with work the only thing I have done is I finished the rear bulk head and started on the stringers. I did buy some gen 5 502s with all kinds of goodies in them all marine stuff and some stelling extention boxes.
the good news is I have a new shop for the winter and sold the Donna Wanna so I plan on making some big progress soon. Ill post some pics soon.
Keith

Keith,

Looking forward to seeing your progress. Keep us posted.

Jon

B.o.a.t.t.t.t.t....
 

Check. The bladder insert route did not get any traction either from the manufacturer or the marina. I'm having the replacement tank made slightly shorter to avoid any cockpit interferences. For the idle curious: tank=$1,800 shipping=$300 Total estimate is at $8k but that includes call-out, tow, drain, and some misc. fuel damaged components.

Good Luck....I picked up a mint 88 panther last august im updating ...Fresh water boat and was a complete steal...

Status pics? Looks like your doing a great job.

Tank's In
 

Work is completed, about $11,000. There was rotted fglass under the tank requiring repair. Have not seen the finished job, - currently out of the country.

I want to hear an update on this panther!!!

well after building a mustang drag car, doing a transom on someones kamma 38 and rebuilding a wellcraft 210 classic for my son and working over 70+ hrs. a week im ready to hit the scarab again. its just hard to find time. but very motivated to start grinding some more. LOL anyone looking for a realy cool mustang?
Keith

Any updates on the boat

Yes updates please!!

Hey Keith, how are you doing with the panther? Give us an update please.