Supposed to be Inconel, we shall soon see for sure when the builder gets into them.

Any valves can tulip and burn, no matter the temperature.

What Inconel buys an engine valve is hot fatigue strength - this wasn't a fatigue failure. These valves look to have yielded and lost seal, causing at least one to overheat locally and burn. There was unintended combustion from the computer not having a MAP signal.

For very hot applications Inconel isn't even the best material! Above 750°C (1380°F), Nimonic 80 is the better choice for fatigue.

Heath - is there a way to set alarms in this ECU? Consider adding one for unexpected MAP (and oil pressure and other safeties).

Alarms sounds like a good idea. I may look into that over the winter. Not sure how to rig that up. looks like I may be adding fuel pressure gauges too. I'm basically out of room on the instrument cluster.

One of the heads was cracked in the combustion chamber, so we're replacing it with another 049 casting. Hope to have the heads back maybe week after next, we'll see.

I keep hearing about the cast iron heads always cracking, to the point that it's morea when, not if. Maybe just the GM heads? 088 heads have the same reputation. Too bad the cast iron Engine Quest BBC heads aren't made anymore.

My Eaton Inconel valves are magnetic midway up the stem. The original GM 2 piece style.

This is common in volume production. Exhaust valves are two materials friction welded together, the tip being induction hardened to carry contact stress from the rocker. It saves you from having to run a lash cap. The stem/tip material is often the same material as the intake valve: SIL-1.

Hoping to be putting the port engine back together this weekend.

Ive been working on the cabin some. I put some teak edging around the flooring. Call me crazy but I don’t like carpet under my feet in a boat. Plus when the grandkids spill their chips, easy clean up.

Also been working on some of the acrylic. Getting the cup holders fine tuned etc.

I’m going to install cleats halfway between the bow cleats and the cleats next to the cockpit. The earlier flat decks apparently didn’t have them?
I tapped a dock on the starboard side in that area in July because there was nowhere to hang a fender. Luckily the place sanded and buffed out about 95% of the way. I showed great restraint in holding my tongue when that happened lol.

Also replaced the upper input seal on the left side a few weeks ago.

The upholstery should be finished up in a week or two.

The Miami Vice 40th anniversary deal in Miami starts 4 weeks from Thursday.

This is coming down to the line.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b51e41646.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...196f07b5a.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...64523f4f4.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1cdf03afb.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3a14aa38d.jpeg

Heath, if you don’t want to drill and install cleats for fenders, Sea Suckers are great. I used them on my 34’ Fountain if it was left in the water overnight at the Marina. Never had a problem.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...35b29dae3.jpeg

never seen that before but interesting solution! thanks for sharing !

This is what Chaparral uses from Taco marine
https://tacomarine.com/dockside-acce...yPJf5deXsFFHDg

I appreciate it guys. I've got a set of the correct cleats polished up and ready to install. On the 'to do' list for Saturday.