1986 Scarab II 29’ resto
#1
1986 Scarab II 29’ resto
Long time reader relatively new poster. After salivating over this forum for a decade, I finally bought a “go-fast” boat: 1986 scarab II 29’.
I paid $10k for it with a trailer. I got it from a good friend I’ve known for decades. He didn’t want to take care of it anymore. It runs & drives (72mph), but it needs work.
Supposedly, the transom and stringers were redone with COOSABOARD in 2017. The engines are ~450hp 454s built by BOWERS marine in NC. It has 10 hours since its 2017 restoration. It has TRS Drives in good running condition. Rebuild status and hours are unknown. I have no way of verifying all this info, but I trust my friend who sold it to me. I’ve ridden on the boat and helped him maintain it over the years.
The electrical wiring is a mess and most gauges don’t work. The cockpit and cabin are faded and could really use new upholstery. I plan to fix all this myself.
I’d like to put in AUTOMETER marine or some other type of modern gauges. I’d like to ditch the teak wood and modernize the cockpit. If “resto-mod” the boat, am I committing blasphemy and ruining its value?
can anyone recommend some reading material or websites/blogs for me to get smarter on this boat? I’ve restored cars, but not a boat.
I paid $10k for it with a trailer. I got it from a good friend I’ve known for decades. He didn’t want to take care of it anymore. It runs & drives (72mph), but it needs work.
Supposedly, the transom and stringers were redone with COOSABOARD in 2017. The engines are ~450hp 454s built by BOWERS marine in NC. It has 10 hours since its 2017 restoration. It has TRS Drives in good running condition. Rebuild status and hours are unknown. I have no way of verifying all this info, but I trust my friend who sold it to me. I’ve ridden on the boat and helped him maintain it over the years.
The electrical wiring is a mess and most gauges don’t work. The cockpit and cabin are faded and could really use new upholstery. I plan to fix all this myself.
I’d like to put in AUTOMETER marine or some other type of modern gauges. I’d like to ditch the teak wood and modernize the cockpit. If “resto-mod” the boat, am I committing blasphemy and ruining its value?
can anyone recommend some reading material or websites/blogs for me to get smarter on this boat? I’ve restored cars, but not a boat.
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hblair (09-18-2023)
#2
Registered
I am in the middle of that same type of restoration. Sad thing about Scarabs is they don't hold the value of a Cigarette or Donzi, so if you restore it to "original" it won't be worth what you spent, and it'll perform like a 1986 boat.
If you resto-rod it, it'll look and feel more modern, be what you want it to be, do what you want it to do, and that way you can at least justify the money spent. Still won't be 'worth' what you spent, but you'll enjoy it a whole bunch more and most casual observers won't know how old it is. You'll at least get to enjoy the money you spent your way! That's what I tell my wife anyway!!! LOL!
If you resto-rod it, it'll look and feel more modern, be what you want it to be, do what you want it to do, and that way you can at least justify the money spent. Still won't be 'worth' what you spent, but you'll enjoy it a whole bunch more and most casual observers won't know how old it is. You'll at least get to enjoy the money you spent your way! That's what I tell my wife anyway!!! LOL!
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1983ScarabIII (07-31-2023)
#3
Yeah that was my thought as well. If I replace the gauges & switches, put in new upholstery, and ditch the teak for some fiberglass panels, it’ll look 15-20 years newer.
I’m pretty sure I could sell the motors, drives, and trailer & get more than my money back if I so choose.
I intend to use this as a family/dogs boat and the occasional poker runner.
I’m pretty sure I could sell the motors, drives, and trailer & get more than my money back if I so choose.
I intend to use this as a family/dogs boat and the occasional poker runner.
#4
VIP Member
VIP Member
There have been a lot of resto-mods threads/projects posted over the years, all too often there is a flurry of activity and then...nothing from the o.p., but the ones that DO make it are often quite nice. New Livorsi, Gaffrig or even Faria gauges will make a difference, but you could go for a full 'glass cockpit' with a couple of Garmin units to REALLY modernize it. Upholstery makes a HUGE difference as you note. Going with some carbon fiber or faux carbon fiber touches in strategic places enhances that modern feel. Sounds like the engines and drives are strong and won't need work, so that frees up some $$$$ to do other things. A ten or twenty thousand dollar investment in that boat would really make it stand out in the crowd, if that is your thing.
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Baja 252 Islander
Baja 252 Islander
#5
I don’t have a desire to do a “build thread”. I’m more looking for ideas. Glass cockpit sounds expensive.
I forgot about Faria gauges. Those are probably cheaper than autometer. I priced out all the auto meter gauges I want and it was like $1600.
I freakin love the carbon fiber idea. I never would have thought of that.
keep the good ideas rolling. I’ll post pics soon
I forgot about Faria gauges. Those are probably cheaper than autometer. I priced out all the auto meter gauges I want and it was like $1600.
I freakin love the carbon fiber idea. I never would have thought of that.
keep the good ideas rolling. I’ll post pics soon
The following 8 users liked this post by Thriller62:
1983ScarabIII (10-11-2023), CDShack (08-01-2023), hblair (12-28-2023), hogie roll (07-31-2023), Hoodoo 2.0 (08-01-2023), larslindroth (08-03-2023), scippy (10-09-2023), Twin O/B Sonic (10-12-2023)
#7
Registered
All my teak is going. Have a new interior being done. I went with Autometer Prolite Marine, polished with candy orange bezels, new paint, new fittings, recessed cleats, taking off the front rail and smoothing the deck. Aluminum platform instead of the teak, all led lights. Twin turboing the 454s with Kaama surface drives. I think it will be nice when done. Look newer, feel new, still make a statement when you pull up.
#8
Registered
Nice project...good on you to take it on.
Upholstery is my Nemesis.
Upholstery is my Nemesis.
#9
Can anyone post a link or video about fluid change and servicing the transmission? I know this thing has either MERCTRANS or VELVETDRIVES in it. I’m unsure how to tell which one and how to service it. Google, forum, and YouTube searches don’t have much. That’s understandable considering these were obsolete before the internet was invented.
Its 110* in the Mojave desert where I live, so I’m not gonna start tearing into this project till it cools down a little.
Its 110* in the Mojave desert where I live, so I’m not gonna start tearing into this project till it cools down a little.
#10
Registered
Can anyone post a link or video about fluid change and servicing the transmission? I know this thing has either MERCTRANS or VELVETDRIVES in it. I’m unsure how to tell which one and how to service it. Google, forum, and YouTube searches don’t have much. That’s understandable considering these were obsolete before the internet was invented.
Its 110* in the Mojave desert where I live, so I’m not gonna start tearing into this project till it cools down a little.
Its 110* in the Mojave desert where I live, so I’m not gonna start tearing into this project till it cools down a little.
Merctrans are more compact and keep the engine closer to the transom by about 6-7" compared to Velvet Drive.
There is some Merc service manuals available...depending what trans you have. Let me know, I can email them to you...or maybe find them on Sribd. Merc manuals are numbered.
TRS are strong...but parts are scarce.
X-dimension is very low on them, due to the prop tech at the time. 3 blade Mirage + work really well with TRS, and have a bit of slip when compared to a 4 blade.
TRS upper is very strong, rarely has issues if lubed properly. Lower gear sets are the weak link. Left rotarion prop shaft thrusts gear forward into the case...making it stronger from lower deflection. Right rotation thrusts against the prop shaft inner threaded bearing carrier. Use B1 shims vs the crush washer for gear mesh. Just like setting a rear veh diff...the crush washers are more likely to deform vs solid shims.
You need a special alignment tool when you put the drive on. It has an extra threaded piece that feed into the trans...and also has a disc the goes on the alignment shaft, centering the gimbal.
Google Merctrans...there is typically a few on ebay you can see photos...then you can compare. If you have a look at your trans...and can hardly see anything...then likely a Merctrans. They are shoehorned in tight.