Battery Cables
#1
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Thread Starter
Battery Cables
There are a few threads on this already but I can't seem to come to any decisions. I'm trying to figure out what gauge to use for my battery cables and hoping someone here can shed some light. Cable manufactures need to know starter amp draw. My research shows it depends on how much the motor draws, etc... I have a moderate compression 10.5/1 small block chevy motors making 652hp each, 3hp mini starters... I'm reading it might be in neighborhood of 250amp max? No real clue though. All I find is that "It depends". I'm not even planning on having a stereo system as I won't hear it over the dry exhaust anyway.
I also read on this board that "I always use 4/0 to be sure." This is BIG wire. I'm fine with using it if it is needed but I'm going to have $600 in battery cables making them myself! I already purchased crimper, etc... as I do want the cables to be custom length. I took some very high level measurements to just tell me how much cable to order. I'm sure I can shorten these but wanted to have more than less when ordering. It is a pretty standard 2 motor, 2 battery setup with batteries in engine compartment/bilge so nothing out of the ordinary.
Do I really want to use 4/0? Any recommendations would be helpful. What has worked for you guys?
I also read on this board that "I always use 4/0 to be sure." This is BIG wire. I'm fine with using it if it is needed but I'm going to have $600 in battery cables making them myself! I already purchased crimper, etc... as I do want the cables to be custom length. I took some very high level measurements to just tell me how much cable to order. I'm sure I can shorten these but wanted to have more than less when ordering. It is a pretty standard 2 motor, 2 battery setup with batteries in engine compartment/bilge so nothing out of the ordinary.
Do I really want to use 4/0? Any recommendations would be helpful. What has worked for you guys?
#2
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I just did this a few weeks ago, replaced all the battery cables. I figure mine were original but I`m not sure.. either way they seemed to be undersized.
I went 1/0 . I think that`s plenty.
According to the test sheet that came with my starters 300amps is what it pulls.
I ordered the cables from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ came professionally crimped and sealed. I measured everything and gave myself and extra 1' or so incase I was off.
$300 for everything.
Came 2 days later .
My old cables were ugly.
old vs. new
Good luck.
I went 1/0 . I think that`s plenty.
According to the test sheet that came with my starters 300amps is what it pulls.
I ordered the cables from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ came professionally crimped and sealed. I measured everything and gave myself and extra 1' or so incase I was off.
$300 for everything.
Came 2 days later .
My old cables were ugly.
old vs. new
Good luck.
#3
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iTrader: (1)
I also don`t buy the "you need tinned for Marine" fairy tale.
Cars dont use tinned and they sure see a lot more water/salt/moisture etc then my boat ever will.
Cars dont use tinned and they sure see a lot more water/salt/moisture etc then my boat ever will.
The matter of tinned wire being the only type accepted as "marine grade" is rather interesting. Ancor was perhaps the first vendor to the boating market to supply tinned copper wire and label it as "marine grade." It was a brilliant marketing move because now many people think that tinned wire is the only legitimate wire to use on boats.
In fact, many boaters are of the belief that the American Boat and Yacht Council mandates the use of tinned wire in its electrical standards. Well, this whole matter falls into the maritime legend category.
First, the ABYC does not mandate the use of tinned wire its standards—never has. Second, the vast majority of production boat builders still use un-tinned wire in their electrical systems.
Is tinned wire better? Well, it is more corrosion resistant, but the truth is, the un-tinned wire has been used for years and provides a more-than-adequate service life in most cases.
Tinned Wire
The trick to enhancing the corrosion resistance with un-tinned wire is simple: Be sure that the terminations on any cabling in your boat are hermetically sealed. Standard crimp connectors don’t do the job. They leave the wire ends exposed to moisture, and eventually corrosion will begin at the terminal and migrate into the conductor as the moisture tracks up the wire under the insulation via capillary action. By using heat-shrink crimp terminals or adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing on conventional crimp connectors, you can effectively seal the ends of all the wire on your boat.
Without exposure to moisture or salt air, the un-tinned wire will last as long as the tinned. (A good online source for heat shrink products is index.)
To determine if your wiring has been affected by moisture, cut off the terminal on a suspicious wire and strip back about a half-inch of insulation. If the wire is black, and not shiny pink, then corrosion has begun to migrate along the conductor. You’ll need to strip back the wiring until you find clean, pink copper. Usually this requires stripping back no more than an inch or so of insulation. Snip off the corroded wire and install a new terminal as described above.
In fact, many boaters are of the belief that the American Boat and Yacht Council mandates the use of tinned wire in its electrical standards. Well, this whole matter falls into the maritime legend category.
First, the ABYC does not mandate the use of tinned wire its standards—never has. Second, the vast majority of production boat builders still use un-tinned wire in their electrical systems.
Is tinned wire better? Well, it is more corrosion resistant, but the truth is, the un-tinned wire has been used for years and provides a more-than-adequate service life in most cases.
Tinned Wire
The trick to enhancing the corrosion resistance with un-tinned wire is simple: Be sure that the terminations on any cabling in your boat are hermetically sealed. Standard crimp connectors don’t do the job. They leave the wire ends exposed to moisture, and eventually corrosion will begin at the terminal and migrate into the conductor as the moisture tracks up the wire under the insulation via capillary action. By using heat-shrink crimp terminals or adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing on conventional crimp connectors, you can effectively seal the ends of all the wire on your boat.
Without exposure to moisture or salt air, the un-tinned wire will last as long as the tinned. (A good online source for heat shrink products is index.)
To determine if your wiring has been affected by moisture, cut off the terminal on a suspicious wire and strip back about a half-inch of insulation. If the wire is black, and not shiny pink, then corrosion has begun to migrate along the conductor. You’ll need to strip back the wiring until you find clean, pink copper. Usually this requires stripping back no more than an inch or so of insulation. Snip off the corroded wire and install a new terminal as described above.
Last edited by ICDEDPPL; 11-14-2018 at 07:07 PM.
#4
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Most boats will be well served with that gauge sized too.
#5
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sized of the cables ( diameter of the internal wires ) is also determined by the length of their runs. the smaller the cable the more electrical resistance for current / voltage to move thru.
I would not use anything smaller than 2 to begin with for battery power(s) and ground(s) -- even for the short runs
I would not use anything smaller than 2 to begin with for battery power(s) and ground(s) -- even for the short runs
Last edited by BUP; 11-14-2018 at 08:45 PM.
#6
Registered
Thread Starter
I just did this a few weeks ago, replaced all the battery cables. I figure mine were original but I`m not sure.. either way they seemed to be undersized.
I went 1/0 . I think that`s plenty.
According to the test sheet that came with my starters 300amps is what it pulls.
I ordered the cables from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ came professionally crimped and sealed. I measured everything and gave myself and extra 1' or so incase I was off.
$300 for everything.
Came 2 days later .
My old cables were ugly.
old vs. new
Good luck.
I went 1/0 . I think that`s plenty.
According to the test sheet that came with my starters 300amps is what it pulls.
I ordered the cables from https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ came professionally crimped and sealed. I measured everything and gave myself and extra 1' or so incase I was off.
$300 for everything.
Came 2 days later .
My old cables were ugly.
old vs. new
Good luck.
#7
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (6)
2/0 is over kill, its not a flux capacitor you're wiring, might want to rethink it, might have issues getting the 2/0 lugs to fit in some areas, 3/8 stud on the starter, whats the hole diameter on these 2/0 ends
Last edited by F-2 Speedy; 11-15-2018 at 09:06 AM.
#8
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F-69 Slowly is kinda right. That`s a big wire.
I had to make a few changes and redrill some openings (1/0 is pretty large) to run the 1/0 since everything was designed around 2 gauge but if you`re rerigging maybe its not a big deal?
I needed 8 wires total. 4 per engine. 2 neutrals and the rest are all positive.
Battery USA is great , fast shipping and the quality of work is fantastic.
I had to make a few changes and redrill some openings (1/0 is pretty large) to run the 1/0 since everything was designed around 2 gauge but if you`re rerigging maybe its not a big deal?
I needed 8 wires total. 4 per engine. 2 neutrals and the rest are all positive.
Battery USA is great , fast shipping and the quality of work is fantastic.
Last edited by ICDEDPPL; 11-15-2018 at 09:03 AM.
#10
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just follow this to make it so easy per run. Its the ABYC / Marine standard. Back when dealers installed which ever engine package of choice and believe me we did alot back in the 80's and thru early 90's. This is exactly what was followed per ABYC / marine standards. It still follows today. This pic I posted was taken from our installation guide for Mercruiser. Anyways pic below