base and clear over gelcoat
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,215
Likes: 0
Can you successfully shoot clear over gelcoat? if you do will the gel fade underneath the clear??
Also, can you shoot base coat to sanded down gelcoat or do you have to prime it first?
Also, can you shoot base coat to sanded down gelcoat or do you have to prime it first?
#2
Tony,
Give Rob a call on his cell. He can answer any question you have with regards to painting. His cell is 440.413.3589.
You and Martin should take a trip our way this weekend. We have our annual poker run this weekend. Check out the Lake Erie Hot Rod Run in the poker run section.
Barb
Give Rob a call on his cell. He can answer any question you have with regards to painting. His cell is 440.413.3589.
You and Martin should take a trip our way this weekend. We have our annual poker run this weekend. Check out the Lake Erie Hot Rod Run in the poker run section.
Barb
#4
Registered
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
If you mean fade like chalk, shouldn't. If the clear has UV protection, it shouldn't fade(red might to some degree) and depends if you keep it out of direct light.
Clear (PPG-2021) can be shot over scuffed gel, but IMO, I never base directly on gel w/o a sealer at least. I'm a newbie here so the older guys will probably tell you something in addition. (if this thread isn't killed, right Dave?)
Clear (PPG-2021) can be shot over scuffed gel, but IMO, I never base directly on gel w/o a sealer at least. I'm a newbie here so the older guys will probably tell you something in addition. (if this thread isn't killed, right Dave?)
#6
offthefront, It is possible to repair a small spot of missing clear over Gel in some cases. The big question is why is it coming off? Was there a small impact of some kind in the spots where it started to peel, such as a rock chip or small scratch that broke the seal of the clear? If not, you may have some serious adheasion problems! You said you had a few places that were peeling. Are they in the same general area of each other? Are they near the front of the boat or near an outside edge of the clear, such as around the hardware, cleats or moldings? These are the spots most likely to receave impacts or not be prepped properly. The biggest question is, can you see sand scratches where the clear is missing? You will have to look closely to see them but it could be a big deciding factor in looking for the cause of the problem! I am not trying to make a mountain out of a mole-hill, but if there is a problem with adheasion it will not go away and you will be waisting you time trying to spot repair these areas. To have clear flake a little after an impact is normal, but to just come off on it's own is not. If you don't think it is normal, let me know and I can tell you a few more things to look for! customtouch
#7
CT .. your right ...most are around fittings .. cleats ..I think where the horn attaches ..ect .... thanks for the info ....I'll post some pics when I get a chance ....m
#8
DONT DO IT! I only heard of people wasting time and money going the route. Spend some time researching and you see that 99% of the time the clear will flake off like dry skin. Just my 2 cents.
#9
Originally Posted by THRILLSEEKER
Can you successfully shoot clear over gelcoat? if you do will the gel fade underneath the clear??
Also, can you shoot base coat to sanded down gelcoat or do you have to prime it first?
Also, can you shoot base coat to sanded down gelcoat or do you have to prime it first?
I painted over my Gel with ALGRIP 2000. I did use the primer recommended by ALGRIP just to make sure. This was the very first paint job I ever did (all white) I dont want to toot my own horn, but it came out beautiful. This was a 27' Carrera the I painted in my garage with half of the boat sticking outside. I made a half ass tarp to cover what was sticking outside. When I was finish I had major runs, bugs, hair, dust, major orange peel. All that was fixed with some simple color sanding and machine polishing. The is a few different types of ALGRIP. What you want is ALGRIP 2000 or it might be called ALCRAFT 2000. But it is still part of the ALGRIP family.



