72 Nova, 350 or 454??
#1
Im redoing a 72 nova. It has a 307 in it right now. Ive got 2 options.
1. 350 4 bolt main, forged crank
2. 454 2 bolt main, cast crank.
I have to change a few things in the car to make it ready for the 454, radiator, springs, etc.
If you had those 2 options, which one would you go with?
1. 350 4 bolt main, forged crank
2. 454 2 bolt main, cast crank.
I have to change a few things in the car to make it ready for the 454, radiator, springs, etc.
If you had those 2 options, which one would you go with?
#3
Its a street car, but i want it fast. I would like to get it in the low 12's high 11's, and Ive heard its not too hard with the 454 with 450-475hp. I just got offered the 350, I realize its an easier changeout, and cheaper to work on, but dont know if ill get the performance i want.
#5
Registered

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 2
From: West Michigan
Since that particular style Nova was available from the factory w/ a bigblock during certain model years it's not like your trying to shoehorn it in there and cobble parts together, I'd go with the bigblock. Especially since it doesn't look like economy is a factor. I think a car/boat/snowmobile with a larger big torque engine is always more fun to drive than a smaller high horsepower engine, even if they run dead even in a drag race.
The two bolt and cast crank wouldn't bother me a bit.
The two bolt and cast crank wouldn't bother me a bit.
#6
Registered

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
Big block. I had a buddy a while back that bought a 1970 Skylark convertible. It had a rod knock when he bought it. It was a 350/2 barrel. We discussed what he should do, and I told him to go to junkyard, and get a 455 Buick from a 70's station wagon or electra. I told him to have it redone, with a healthy cam, carb, headers, and some mild headwork. he insisted his 350 would be fast enough if he had it redone and added a 4 barrel and headers. Long story short, he paid 1500 to have the 350 rebuilt, 300 for a 4 barrel holley, 200 for a intake, 200 for headers, and a couple hundred on odds an ends. When it was all over, the performance still sucked. He was expecting a tire scorching musclecar, and he unded up with a slug.
For you, I would say, get a big block, keep the cam and compression conservative, some roller rockers, a good carb, intake, and headers, and you'll have a stout setup that will make you happy. You'll have enough torque to run a 3.23 or 3.42 gears and still have good et's. Im sure you can build and stroke a 350 to a 383, and make some great power, but Im sure it aint cheap and it wont be as user friendly as a big block making the same power. Post some pics
For you, I would say, get a big block, keep the cam and compression conservative, some roller rockers, a good carb, intake, and headers, and you'll have a stout setup that will make you happy. You'll have enough torque to run a 3.23 or 3.42 gears and still have good et's. Im sure you can build and stroke a 350 to a 383, and make some great power, but Im sure it aint cheap and it wont be as user friendly as a big block making the same power. Post some pics
#9
Originally Posted by pull my trigger
ever think of a GM crate motor?......they're pretty reasonable and all new
It wont be an everyday driver, just for friday and saturday nights.
#10
Other things to consider:
10 bolt rear will not last very long with big block torque
Cooling system upgrade?
Hood clearance depending on what intake manifold you use
Sometimes power brake boosters get in the way with big blocks
10 bolt rear will not last very long with big block torque
Cooling system upgrade?
Hood clearance depending on what intake manifold you use
Sometimes power brake boosters get in the way with big blocks


