I have electric over hyraulic brakes on my trailer and they didnt seem to work that great.I removed and replaced all the pads,bled the brakes and I still have to turn the controller up to 10.I also have to anticipate stopping by holding my foot down till pressure builds up.The electric motor is definately working my next question would be brake controller or master cylinder.Should I test with a pressure guage?How much pressure should it put out?How long should it take to build pressure?The brakes do work but I have had to stand on the brake pedal when someone stops short.Like I said it almost seems like its not building enough pressure.The trailer is only 5 yrs old and very good condition.How good do your brakes work?My controller also has a small slide to adjust how fast the reaction comes when braking,its at the fastest position now.Am I asking too much?

I converted my new trailer from surge to elec. over hyd. they are disc on one axel of a tandum. I tow approx 6500 lbs. They stop big time. I have to adjust my controler about in the middle. I know when I bought my controler that only two of the three models offered were compatible. I just remembered That the digital controler wouldn't work with my set up. You might start with verifying conpatibility.
Good luck

To test pressure disconnect the line to the brake system and install a pressure gage. You should have at least 1500 PSI. I had to replace my Dico unit with a Titan Brake Rite pump on my big Myco trailer. The Titan will not work with the Dico kick start feature. Dico no longer makes their pump unit but the Titan unit works well on both my boat trailers. Do not use a back up solenoid.

The question is this,why would there be different controllers?the controller is only controlling voltage is it not?I mean the max it could put out is 12 volts right?The boat is 11,500 lbs triple axle disc on all axles.I would think it should stop pretty good,I m not expecting skid marks but It should be close.

Crack, I have had 2 trailers w/ el/hy brakes and have had multiple units replaced on both (dif brands). don't understand it, we have had brakes on vehicles for 100 years and 4 some reason these units just R not reliable. I would start w/ the unit on the trailer even though it sounds like U here it buzzing!!???? Good luck

There are some controllers that are not compatible with electric over hydraulic brakes. What kind of controller do you have?

Had a customer with a new 350 Ford with built in controller. He had the same problem. Determined that the problem was in the controller. Hook your trailer to a vehicle with a known "working" controller and check the results.

I have a Brakerite pump on my Eagle trailer and a Tekonsha controller on my F-350. It stops my 382 NOW.

The controller has to be compatible with the brake system. I was told by Eagle trailer the only controller compatible with the Brakerite was the Tekonsha Voyager.

Make sure the controller is set properly too. There should be a levelling adjustment you make initially, then set the gain.

If everything is set properly, you can almost stop the whole rig with just light application on the brake pedal.

I have the Carlisle unit on a triple axle trailer with discs on all axle. The first unit I put on a few years ago wan't that good. It took a few seconds for it to build up pressure. It finally died on me and they gave me a discount on a new replacement model which works MUCH faster (less than a second to build up pressure). It now feels almost the same as the equipment trailers that I tow with standard electric brakes.

I am also now using a Teknosha Prodigy controller with an adapter for use with the electric-over-hydraulic system.

Excellent responses guys,I have electric brakes on my backhoe trailer and that thing will stop hard!The brake controller name escapes me.I will check the truck in the morning and post.The trailer is a VIP The paint is scraped away the first letter on the resovouir is an A?hydraulic unit that is.Wish my truck was home so I could check Now!