I'm a new Stinger owner and my 86 260 is doing the Stinger Hop. I picked that up off this board, but w/ level tabs WOT the slitest trim up starts the purposing. To me you should be able to trim up for better speed but the hop is intolerable. Is this common and what is the solution?

I am thinking of trying foils or different props w/ more rake for better bow lift.

Why not just run the tabs down a little bit until the "hop" stops?

Because it will go slower, my limited does it if the tabs are all the way up, I am in Lake Erie and the boat seems to be the best in 2-3 footers with the tabs up, in anything calmer it is all over the lake.

I think it is the X dimension (if i'm saying that correct) how deep the outdrives are running in the water. The lower the outdrives are the more it will lift the bow. That's why when you stick your tabs down & trim up you tend to alleviate the problem. You benefit 2 ways, a) less friction b) raise the outdrives. The boat stands up. If i'm wrong about this just call me an IDIOT but it does sound logical.

OK here is what I know, Drives down= bow down, drives up= bow up (same w/ tabs), bow up=higher speed rougher ride, bow down=slower speed better ride but less control. With bow down you have max wet surface, max friction, and slower speed. Bow down is good for rough water but not top speed or fuel economy, also course tracking is worse (bow will hook/grab side to side). Trim tabs in all but performance applications are to level the boat side to side for uneven load or wind, bow trim is most effectively handled w/ the drives. Using tabs to trim the bow usually puts the tabs and the drives in opposing positions (working against each other) which uses up power and fuel.

Purposing is due to the props lifting the bow but not having the ability to hold the bow up, more rpms, if not at WOT, will sometimes help (when in dought power out). My stinger is hopping at WOT so I have no rpms to give. Decreasing the X dimension (Engines and drives higher on transom) would help but that's a lot of work. More hp would help, again lots of work. More strakes on the hull would help.

I'm still thinking foils or higher rake props for added bow lift. Any ideas on what props are working well on the 260 stinger? Anyone tried foils?

TAZMAN, as far as I know, yes you are correct but the more you run your boat and play with different positions on you tabs & outdrives, you will find out what works best for the ride and what's best for speed. You can tweak 2 to possibly 4 mph with a decent ride just by playing with the tabs & outdrives. remember though, the 260 bounces in smooth as glass water. I got my best speed in choppy water. When I first got the boat, everyone I took out in it said I play with the controls too much. I was learning what worked best for me and now I get in it and go but different water conditions require different settings. We are always learning.....

Quote " LIFE IS A LESSON, YOU LEARN IT WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH "

So the Stinger hop is just to be lived with????

I am wondering if high rake prop's desighned for added bow lift would hold the bow up better.

It's a heavy boat, i'm not sure if it would help or not. some other guys may have an answer for that. I myself have'nt experimented with many prop configurations.

Tazman, don't be afraid to use you tabs. They are there for a reason. Try trimming to where if frees up and then tap little by little down on the tabs till it smooths out, your not really push the bow down your lifting the stern. A high rake round ear prop will help but play trim and tab settings before buying props,
Jim

The Stinger hop will not go away, learn to live with it.....