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Things to look for in mostly redone Scarab 22?

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Old 09-18-2007 | 09:27 PM
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Default Things to look for in mostly redone Scarab 22?

On Thursday I'm going to take a look at a 22' Scarab, with a just-rebuilt 454MPI, Bravo 1, with the wood floor/backseat/engine hatch all redone in fiberglass. Owner says his GF hates the boat, and he has a center console now, and hasn't used the Scarab this season at all. Claims to have a 1 year warranty on the motor rebuild. He removed all of the graphics, in anticipation of redoing them, but he has obviously lost motivation to finish it given his story, so the hull is plain white.

Now, keeping in mind that I've been around boats for a while, but never really started learning all that much until this year (I'm a fairly competent auto mechanic on the side, though), what should I look for in terms of the work that has been done? Are there any telltale signs of a poorly-done job of replacing all of that wood? I know I should inspect the transom and stringers for rot/cracks, I take it that the only real way I can inspect that is in the engine compartment? He has no problem with having the boat surveyed, but before I waste the $, I figure I'll look it over myself and see if there's anything obviously wrong.

Thanks for any input.

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Old 09-18-2007 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by agchoset
On Thursday I'm going to take a look at a 22' Scarab, with a just-rebuilt 454MPI, Bravo 1, with the wood floor/backseat/engine hatch all redone in fiberglass. Owner says his GF hates the boat, and he has a center console now, and hasn't used the Scarab this season at all. Claims to have a 1 year warranty on the motor rebuild. He removed all of the graphics, in anticipation of redoing them, but he has obviously lost motivation to finish it given his story, so the hull is plain white.

Now, keeping in mind that I've been around boats for a while, but never really started learning all that much until this year (I'm a fairly competent auto mechanic on the side, though), what should I look for in terms of the work that has been done? Are there any telltale signs of a poorly-done job of replacing all of that wood? I know I should inspect the transom and stringers for rot/cracks, I take it that the only real way I can inspect that is in the engine compartment? He has no problem with having the boat surveyed, but before I waste the $, I figure I'll look it over myself and see if there's anything obviously wrong.

Thanks for any input.
you have to ask your self why was the floor replaced.If it was for rot then you can pretty much bet that the stringers will also have some sort of moisture in them.Check all the holes that pass thru the stringers to see if they have been fiberglassed.Check the bolts that hold the motor mounts on.
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Old 09-19-2007 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BY U BOY
you have to ask your self why was the floor replaced.If it was for rot then you can pretty much bet that the stringers will also have some sort of moisture in them.Check all the holes that pass thru the stringers to see if they have been fiberglassed.Check the bolts that hold the motor mounts on.
Exactly. If the floor has been replaced, there is moisture in the hull most likely.
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Old 09-19-2007 | 09:25 AM
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How about an opinion from someone who ISN'T trying to sell me a boat of their own?
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Old 09-19-2007 | 11:23 AM
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You will need a lot more information about why the floor was replaced.

If it was replaced because of rot, then the question is what caused the rot. If they did alot of swimming and constantly dripping water in the boat and that caused the floor to get soft, then the stringers probably weren't exposed much. But, if it sat outside uncovered and constantly had rainwater running through the bildge and this caused the floor to get soft, then I'd be quite concerned.

There is a access cover in the center of the floor that may give you a glimpse of at least part of the stringers.

I think with care-in-use and proper storing the wood floor doesn't have to be a problem. I have a 1998 and my floor, rear seatbacks, side panels and, transum are hard as a rock and dry.

One other thing you may want to check is excessivbe play in the gimble ring. With the boat on the trailer, try to move the outdrive side-to-side and up and down. If there is excessive play, then the gimble ring would need to be replaced.
 
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Old 09-20-2007 | 04:42 PM
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Well, I went today to look at it... and that's about all I did. It was a mess. Needed a full interior, needed new rub strip, fiberglass floor job didn't look very professional, drive trim didn't work, sunpad upholstery was disgusting, and there was black spraypaint all over the supposedly just-rebuilt motor. Was probably worth 5-6K at best. Crazy.
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Old 09-21-2007 | 08:38 AM
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Yikes!
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Old 09-21-2007 | 08:48 AM
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Yeah, Pete, it's making your '96 a little more attractive to me, I'm awaiting pictures
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Old 09-21-2007 | 09:12 AM
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How Much Was He Asking?
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Old 09-21-2007 | 09:47 AM
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He was willing to let it go for 10K. Probably was worth 5K to someone looking for a project, IF the motor truly was fresh.
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