So what happens when you have a stainless raw water strainer (one of the good kind too!) a brass pipe bushing to reduce it down so an aluminum hose barb can be screwed in to suck the salt water to cool the engine ......

anyone??

bueller??

WTF?? Am I an idiot to think that we should of used the same type of metal for all three fittings??

The only thing I am not fond of is the aluminum. Brass barb would have made me fell all warm and cozy.

Switch the alum barb to brass. The salt will eat up the alum part then the problems will begin.
Bobby

Unprotected aluminum in salt water is useless...I will not even use anodized aluminum because the coating is so thin that any scratch or damage to the coating causes corrosion to start.

I lost fittings on both engines that use the annodized aluminum coating, thankfully both failures occured while I was in the bilge doing other work and happened to just slightly bump the hose causing slight stress on the fittings, and snap, they completely broke off.

Brass or Bronze is good stuff for salt water. If I were wanting to go away from brass the only material I would use would be stainless steel, and yes SS is available for most common 37 degree flare fittings.

Found the SS fitting I wanted - 1 1/4 male NPT with a 1 1/4 hose barb .... just waiting on it to hit the door!!

a process called electrolosis due to dis-similiar meatals greatly increases in the salt enviroment no matter what metal. uses all the same types of metal and flush thoroughly.

I have to replace my Earls fitting about every three years.They seem to hold up better that the areoquip's I had.

heres a pick of a Areoquip#12 they all will corrode where they are brazed together,right pass the seat.You can see on a new ones that the color is different were there joined together

this is fresh water