I have twin 1999 HP 500 carbed boat. Last weekend we ran to a cove approx. 10 miles away tied up all day etc. As we were leaving both engines started as normal. Shortly after that one dies and I could not get it restarted and came back in on one engine. Once back at the dock and in the slip I tried to start the engine. It started and ran a minugte or so before dying. It would start and run for a short time then die. Wait a minute or so and it will restart.

This weekend I replaced the fuel pump with a used one that I have had for several years. Once again it will start run for a minute or so then it act like it is running out for fuel. Even after it dies the fuel level is right at the bottom of the sight plug right where it should be. Both engines run off the same fuel tank. The filters were new at the beginning of the season. I am on the same tank of fuel from the beginning of the season. I had changed the dist. caps, plugs, plug wires, and coils at the beginning of the season. Tried to install a fuel pressure guage in the fuel line to check the pressure but the allen head of the plug stripped out before the plug broke loose so that has not been installed yet. Will more than likely have to drill and re tap the hole.

So far the other engine is running fine and has not been effected.

Anybody have any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks,
Mark

Like you said, it will be interesting to see what the fuel pressure is doing. Doudle check all connections. Also, I would put a test light on the positive side of the coil, then and fire it up. Check to see if the light goes out when the motor dies. It's going to be fuel or spark. My guess.
BTW to remove the allen, purchase a set of reverse drill bits. Usually, when it starts to drill, it will grab the allen and unscrew it, without damaging the threads. Saves a lot of time.



Darrell.

Darrell,

Can I use a volt meter instead of a test light? Have that with me but no test light. I assume there should still be voltage after it dies if it is not a fire problem. No voltage then indicates electric?

Like the reverse bit idea. Am going to try an easy out as well since I have aa set at home (90) miles away.

Mark

use your volt meter across the coil. Positive to positive, egative to negative. If it pulses up and down while cranking, the module is probably ok. If it does nothing, connect the positive end to a battey source and leave the neg side on the neg coil terminal, check for a pulse. If no pulse ie fixed high or low voltage, module or coil bad. If ok, check for power on the plus side of the coil.

Have since done a thing or 2 more. Now it does not start nor run at all. Do not have spark now, even though I did in the early stages of trouble shooting. Am 90+ % at this point it is going to be the pickup / module in the dist.

Have 12 volts at the coil and all else is checking OK. Would have bet money up until now on fuel but it is pointing to the module right now.

Thanks,
Mark

Ok. Now you just have to switch the modules, or dizzys, and see it the problem disappears.
Years ago, I had built two new 468's for a Scarab I had. One refused to fire after I installed them in the boat. After about an entire day of pulling my hair out, I switched the dizzys, and it fired up after about 1/4 of a turn. Ended up being a bad distributer right from the factory.


Darrell.