I know I read that someone has the molds and some people on here have one(cub).

Im looking at redoing the whole boat. Seperating the hull/deck. Needs some glass work, Middle of the floor flexs, needs reinforced. Im looking at painting it to.

1st ? Is there suppose to be drains where you sit in case water comes over to run into the bilge? There are only some tiny holes.

I have a long shaft motor on it. The nose comes way up when taking off. Can a engine bracket be put on or will it screw the "center of graity" by raising it that high?

Are you gas tanks just strapped down?

I will have to get a hold of the Pro- Glass Dave Im going to have to give you a shout for some advice.
Thanks for any info

Another shot

Cool boat.

Keep us posted on the progress.

Thanx
Anyone Anyone w info?

Gimmie a call anytime 419-461-1484 is the tech line


also you might want to contact Brownie on the board here. I believe he lofted the original plug and mold.

Thanks again Dave
I will swing by this week.

Yes you can put a bracket on there. raise it to get the prop just below the keel hight. When we had the first Cub race in Key West all the fast ones just came from Lake X and had brackets raisng the short shaft motors, So you can definatly raise a long one. One of the Cubs was owned by Gil Marine and they made a custom Gil Bracket for it. Does yours have a step in the tunnel right under the seat? The production Cubs had it, a few got out that didn't have it and they where a bit faster, they packed air better whereas the step in the tunnel relieved air.

Raising to just below the keel would take it pretty high. I was just wondering with the bracket raising a long shaft, would it make it to top heavy?. I heard of these things flippin pretty easy.
Yes it has the step in it.
If you remember,
Did they have a hard time planing out?
Did they run 25hp motors?
Did they race these cubs for many years down there?
Thanks

I really keep thinkin this says the project Cougar A.K.A MILF Club. Maybe you guys should start one of those.

well, I have been down this exact road. Matter of fact, I'm still travelling it. Do not attempt to hang a bracket on the back until after you cut it open. Mine had a 12 x 18 inch piece of 1/2" ply for a transom that was barely glassed to the hull. Bolting a bracket to it would have surely ripped it apart. I made a new complete transom that fits the entire back of the hull from two layers of 3/4 marine ply and glassed it in with west systems epoxy. I added two knees from the transom to the tunnel to stop the flex as well. I added two full length composite and glassed in stringers because they bend in the middle. I glassed in the bucket as well because the only thing holding in the liner was the rub rail screws and some crappy (off the shop floor) garbage and resin mixed into filler. I cut out 50 lbs of water logged green foam near the bilge pumps and then foam filled the entire hull under the liner to stop the floor from flexing. I epoxy filled the drain holes in the liner too. The idea being that I would rather bail a little water oft of the cockpit liner than have it in the bilge all the time. They are a very wet ride but its nice on a hot sunny day.
I fabbed up a 6 inch set bak and manual bracket for the 40 short shaft thats goin on it next summer as well.

Next is cut all the old wood out of the deck, repair the cracks and strengthen the fore deck where the gas filler neck comes thru.
My tank is an 8 gallon aluminum made to fit across the tunnel hump in the liner below the dash.

When the deck is done it will be bonded on and glassed all the way around before prep and paint. I figure that when ir rolls, I want to be able to slavage the boat so strong is good