572 Supercharged Engine build
#1
Well it's winter, and I am thinking about some new power for the resin bucket. Is a 572 a good solid choice? Are the rod angles good or bad? What block, heads, rods (make and length) Cam (hydraulic roller only) oil pan etc. I know there are some great marine engine builders here, both professional and private.
Let's hear your thoughts.
Happy Holiday's
Ed
Let's hear your thoughts.
Happy Holiday's
Ed
#2
Registered
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
Although there is nothing wrong with a 572, why not go all the way to a 598. If you are building a NA motor that makes say 1.25 hp/ci, then a 572 will make 715 hp, whereas a 598 will make 748. The only difference is bore size. They both use a 4.5" stroke crank, but the 572 has a 4.5" bore and the 598 has a 4.600" bore. They will also have the same rod length and angle. The 598 will not cost any more money than the 572, so the extra power is free.
If you use an aftermarket block, like a Merlin, you can safely bore it to 4.625. That leaves plenty of material for future rebuilds.
For parts, it depends on how much power you want to make. You did not specify N/A or S/C. I would recommend a 4.5" Lunati crank, 6.7 Oliver billet rods, and JE pistons with Total Seal rings. The block would be a Merlin III with a 10.20 deck height. For a NA engine, keep the nodular iron caps, but for an SC engine, step up to the billet main caps. Hope this helps, Eddie.
If you use an aftermarket block, like a Merlin, you can safely bore it to 4.625. That leaves plenty of material for future rebuilds.
For parts, it depends on how much power you want to make. You did not specify N/A or S/C. I would recommend a 4.5" Lunati crank, 6.7 Oliver billet rods, and JE pistons with Total Seal rings. The block would be a Merlin III with a 10.20 deck height. For a NA engine, keep the nodular iron caps, but for an SC engine, step up to the billet main caps. Hope this helps, Eddie.
#4
Banned
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,849
Likes: 3
From: Frankfort,ill
Well it's winter, and I am thinking about some new power for the resin bucket. Is a 572 a good solid choice? Are the rod angles good or bad? What block, heads, rods (make and length) Cam (hydraulic roller only) oil pan etc. I know there are some great marine engine builders here, both professional and private.
Let's hear your thoughts.
Happy Holiday's
Ed
Let's hear your thoughts.
Happy Holiday's
Ed
#5
Although there is nothing wrong with a 572, why not go all the way to a 598. If you are building a NA motor that makes say 1.25 hp/ci, then a 572 will make 715 hp, whereas a 598 will make 748. The only difference is bore size. They both use a 4.5" stroke crank, but the 572 has a 4.5" bore and the 598 has a 4.600" bore. They will also have the same rod length and angle. The 598 will not cost any more money than the 572, so the extra power is free.
If you use an aftermarket block, like a Merlin, you can safely bore it to 4.625. That leaves plenty of material for future rebuilds.
For parts, it depends on how much power you want to make. You did not specify N/A or S/C. I would recommend a 4.5" Lunati crank, 6.7 Oliver billet rods, and JE pistons with Total Seal rings. The block would be a Merlin III with a 10.20 deck height. For a NA engine, keep the nodular iron caps, but for an SC engine, step up to the billet main caps. Hope this helps, Eddie.
If you use an aftermarket block, like a Merlin, you can safely bore it to 4.625. That leaves plenty of material for future rebuilds.
For parts, it depends on how much power you want to make. You did not specify N/A or S/C. I would recommend a 4.5" Lunati crank, 6.7 Oliver billet rods, and JE pistons with Total Seal rings. The block would be a Merlin III with a 10.20 deck height. For a NA engine, keep the nodular iron caps, but for an SC engine, step up to the billet main caps. Hope this helps, Eddie.
You really fire it off like an M16! LOL!
The engine will be supercharged, so the billet caps are a must. You like that Oliver billet 6.7 rod length, I guess the longer rod gives you a better angle? Oliver billets are awesome! How about a cam choice? It all helps and is interesting as hell!
Thanks
Ed
#6
Banned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Ed,
Please feel free to contact me to discuss some options on what you would like to do. I also have 2- brand new 572 long blocks for sale ready to assemble with the best of everything in them. I will lead you in the right direction. Thanks!
Dean Gellner
Please feel free to contact me to discuss some options on what you would like to do. I also have 2- brand new 572 long blocks for sale ready to assemble with the best of everything in them. I will lead you in the right direction. Thanks!
Dean Gellner
#7
Registered
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
I just noticed the title of the thread stating that it is an SC engine. OOPS....sorry, I missed that. Well then, disregard what I said about the NA engine, unless someone wants to build a N/A engine.
Eddie
Eddie
#8
Registered

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 5
From: Turku, Finland
Well it's winter, and I am thinking about some new power for the resin bucket. Is a 572 a good solid choice? Are the rod angles good or bad? What block, heads, rods (make and length) Cam (hydraulic roller only) oil pan etc. I know there are some great marine engine builders here, both professional and private.
Let's hear your thoughts.
Happy Holiday's
Ed
Let's hear your thoughts.
Happy Holiday's
Ed
Excellent and hereŽs two options IMO...
572/875hp@5600
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jajmS...eature=related
Or the quieter one with I think at least similar power...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3U9nYk3kcdg
with the foundation you mention IŽd go with Turbos.
#9
Registered
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
Wow Eddie!
You really fire it off like an M16! LOL!
The engine will be supercharged, so the billet caps are a must. You like that Oliver billet 6.7 rod length, I guess the longer rod gives you a better angle? Oliver billets are awesome! How about a cam choice? It all helps and is interesting as hell!
Thanks
Ed
You really fire it off like an M16! LOL!
The engine will be supercharged, so the billet caps are a must. You like that Oliver billet 6.7 rod length, I guess the longer rod gives you a better angle? Oliver billets are awesome! How about a cam choice? It all helps and is interesting as hell!
Thanks
Ed
Actually, if you are doing an SC engine, I would use a 6.635 rod. JE does not make an inverted dome piston with a 1.25 comp. height. They only offer a 1.27. You can have a 1.25 made as a custom, but I would prefer a shelf piston for ease of replacement, should the need arise. With the 1.27 piston and a 6.7 rod, the piston will be .020 out the hole. If you use the 6.635, you can deck the block whatever you want the get the comp. ratio you are looking for. I have run the 6.7 rod and a .072 thick head gasket, but it is a pain. The older blocks use to have an extra .020 on the decks that they do not have anymore. The decks use to be 10.220, but not anymore.
JE also makes a piston with a 1.12 comp. height. I don't like to get under 1.25, but that is my personal preference. In a drag race motor it may be fine(I don't know for sure since I don't build drag race engines), but I don't trust them in a marine engine.
Ideally, in a perfect world, I like to see a 1.5 rod angle (rod length div. by stroke) It is not always a perfect world. With the 6.7 rod, you get a 1.4888 rod angle. With the 6.635 rod, you get a 1.4744. I can't begin to tell you how many times I have done this combo. This is the combo I use in EVERY SC engine I build.(that is a 598).
Rod angle is the reason I don't like or build a 632. If you use the 1.27 piston, you must use a 6.535 rod.(10.2-half of stroke(4.75)-comp. height(1.27) =6.555.
10.2 - 2.375 - 1.27 = 6.555. If you use a 6.535 rod, you are left with .020 to play with to deck the block to square it, or to leave the piston in the hole. However, you end up with a 1.3757 rod angle.
Hope this makes sense

Eddie
#10
Great talking to you.
Thanks
Ed



