who can tell me the cylinder numbers when valves are closed when at top dead center , and then at 180 degrees and so on to adjust valves on bb chevy.

Thanks

you start like this
1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
right side of engine first one is 1 3 5 7
left side of engine first one is 2 4 6 8
do it in this order 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
good luck!

Be sure to check the firing order. Some engine builders have changed to a different one. I ran into this and it is maddening. Good luck. Quent

make sure you look up the proper clearance
some times the exuast side is more!

so at top dead center which cylinders are closed , and then at 180 degrees and so on so i know where to rotate engine and what cylinders i can do at that point.

Any one

This is what a old timer told me.
As Exhaust opens set intake.
Intake starts to close set Exhaust.

Somebody told me ,,and i don't know for shure, but if u turn the engine and the rocker is lose ,thats the one u check and adjust, i heard it doesen't matter which firing order.

Just the ones that are up and thats the ones u check ???!!!

This is from a guy on another site who has been building engines for a sometime. Helped me out hope it helps you.

How to adjust hydraulilc lifters
OK guys...thought I would share another of my top priority secrets...how to adjust your hydraulic lifters in 2 easy steps. This system works and I have been using it for years...but...take note...I said HYDRAULIC lifters...not solids.

Lets suppose that you have just installed a new cam and lifters (hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic rollers) and you want to know how to set them. First off...do not set the intake manifold or your MPI intake on the motor until you have all those puppies adjusted so that you can see the cam to VERIFY that the lifter is indeed on the heel (back side of the cam from the lobe) of the cam and the lobe is on the other side. Leave the timing cover off too.

If you are using the same pushrods and rockers...the pushrod **MUST** go back in the **EXACT** spot it was in when you removed it, with the correct end **UP**. Also, the **EXACT** same rocker arm **MUST** go back on the **EXACT** same stud with the **EXACT** same **BALL** that was in that rocker arm. I can not stress enough...how important this is...because if you get just 1 wrong...that means 2 are wrong and you WILL HAVE DISASTROUS FAILURE with the 2 that are wrong. If you are installing NEW pushrods and rockers...no worries...just drop em in place and adjust.

OK...set the motor on TDC so that the 2 dots on the timing crank gear and the cam sprocket are lined up vertically. We are discussing a SB or a BB...doesnt matter, the firing order is the same (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2). We want to look at the position of the cam lobe in relation to #1 cylinder...which is the first cylinder to your right as you stand in front of the motor...that side has 1, 3, 5 & 7, cylinders...the other side has 2, 4, 6 & 8 cylinders. Look at the cam at where the lifters are touching it. If it is NOT on the lobe or close to it, then you are correct for your starting point. If you can see the lifter beginning to start up the lobe on the cam, then you need to rotate the motor 1 full (360 degrees on the crank gear) turn and line up the 2 vertical dots again (crank gear dot will be on top and cam gear dot will be on top). With this done, we are ready to start adjusting...just make sure that you look into the intake ports to know that you are either on an intake valve or an exhaust valve. If you are using new lifters, there will be no resistance so you need to pay close attention and watch. Hold the pushrod with your thumb and finger...you can jiggle it up and down some...tighten the nut on the rocker until the pushrod has no jiggle or up & down movement. It should be just starting to push down on the plunger in the lifter. Mark that spot and then take your socket and make "ONE FULL (360 degree) TURN and stop at your mark spot...do NOT go more than one full turn. You might be able to push the rocker down alittle...if you have new lifters that are not pumped up...this is normal...no worries. Do this to adjust every lifter in this sequence which will be 8 lifters. The ones to adjust are...

If the harmonic balancer is on...line the mark up so that it on TDC and ready for number 1 to fire...then you can adjust...

INTAKE...3, 4, 6 & 8 valves
EXHAUST...2, 5, 6 & 7 valves

Now rotate the engine over by HAND 1 full turn (360 degrees) and line the marks up again and you can adjust the following after you verify that the lifter on #3 intake is on the heal of the cam...

INTAKE...1, 2, 5 & 7 valves
EXHAUST...1, 3, 4 & 8 valves

Now rotate the motor over by hand again 1 full turn. The lifters are all adjusted and now you can go back and button it up....install the timing cover and your intake. Set your distributor in place noting where the rotor is pointing as this will be where the #1 spark plug wire goes, then install the rest of the wires in a CLOCKWISE rotation. Some people rotate their motors to the 12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock positions to do this, but I am lazy and prefer to do it in 2 steps instead of 4.

As I said, I have been using this methoid of hydraulic lifter adjustment for over 45 years and I have never had a problem. Adjusting solid lifters is a different game. I hope this will help anyone who might be doing engine mods as this is really pretty simple. Also I would not use the cork or rubber gaskets that go on the front and rear of the motor. I would instead use a 1/4 inch bead of silicone on the front and rear rail to ensure no oil leaks. It never fails with me to have the rubber strips squirt out when I am tightening up the intake manifold bolts...25 to 30 pounds feet of torque...so I toss those things and use the silicone...use high temp silicone.

Start with # 1 tdc and adjust both intake and exhaust. Hand rotate 90* and adjust the next in the firing order being # 8. Continue process until all are adjusted.

Or the answer to your question is with # 1 at tdc adjust intake 1-2-5-7 and exhaust 1-3-4-8. Rotate 360* and adjust intake 3-4-6-8 and exhaust 2-5-6-7.

Either method will work.

Mark