Opinions on Rebuild 584's
#1
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,055
Likes: 91
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
I just purchased a pair of 594 c.i. Kurts Marine natually aspirated 750 hp motors. They were refreshed several years ago and have set unused. I started dissassembling them and found everything in reasonable condition except the #7 pushrod was missing and the tab on the lifter that ties it to the other lifter was broken. The nuts that hold the rocker shaft were both loose. Of course the owner does not know how ther rod was missing everything was in running condition when winterized. The cams have mild wear patterns, lifters show mild wear, still hone marks in the cylinders, main bearings show almost perfect. The intake valves have mild/moderate rust. Heads have pitting corrossion where several exhaust ports are(not in just on flange) I have a 34 DCB with some of Dick's drives. My goal is reliability and perfect docking manners, then hp third. I'm thinking might like to switch to hydraulic roller_ cam and I am thinking of efi. I'm going to go with my great shape motors for this season and take my time on these. Here's parts list;
-Lunati cranks 4.625 stroke
-Bowtie blocks-
-Oliver rods 6.535 length
-BRC 4.520 pistons
-Dart Big Chief Heads, T&D Shaft Rocker 1.7
-Manley valves Isky Tool Room Springs
-Crane solid roller cam with .714 lift
-Jesel belt drive
-Dart intake and Dominator carb
-Merc ignition
-9:1 compression
Thanks, Eric
-Lunati cranks 4.625 stroke
-Bowtie blocks-
-Oliver rods 6.535 length
-BRC 4.520 pistons
-Dart Big Chief Heads, T&D Shaft Rocker 1.7
-Manley valves Isky Tool Room Springs
-Crane solid roller cam with .714 lift
-Jesel belt drive
-Dart intake and Dominator carb
-Merc ignition
-9:1 compression
Thanks, Eric
Last edited by SkiDoc; 02-25-2009 at 06:53 AM.
#2
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 2
I just purchased a pair of 594 c.i. Kurts Marine natually aspirated 750 hp motors. They were refreshed several years ago and have set unused. I started dissassembling them and found everything in reasonable condition except the #7 pushrod was missing and the tab on the lifter that ties it to the other lifter was broken. The nuts that hold the rocker shaft were both loose. Of course the owner does not know how ther rod was missing everything was in running condition when winterized. The cams have mild wear patterns, lifters show mild wear, still hone marks in the cylinders, main bearings show almost perfect. The intake valves have mild/moderate rust. Heads have pitting corrossion where several exhaust ports are(not in just on flange) I have a 34 DCB with some of Dick's drives. My goal is reliability and perfect docking manners, then hp third. I'm thinking might like to switch to hydraulic roller_ cam and I am thinking of efi. I'm going to go with my great shape motors for this season and take my time on these. Here's parts list;
-Lunati cranks 4.625 stroke
-Bowtie blocks-
-Oliver rods 6.535 length
-BRC 4.520 pistons
-Dart Big Chief Heads, T&D Shaft Rocker 1.7
-Manley valves Isky Tool Room Springs
-Crane solid roller cam with .714 lift
-Jesel belt drive
-Dart intake and Dominator carb
-Merc ignition
Thanks, Eric
-Lunati cranks 4.625 stroke
-Bowtie blocks-
-Oliver rods 6.535 length
-BRC 4.520 pistons
-Dart Big Chief Heads, T&D Shaft Rocker 1.7
-Manley valves Isky Tool Room Springs
-Crane solid roller cam with .714 lift
-Jesel belt drive
-Dart intake and Dominator carb
-Merc ignition
Thanks, Eric
If you fresh water cool it and run some tempature you may be surprised at the idle quality you can achieve. I have a 9:5 compression .670 lift cam engine. It idles at 600 RPM in gear and never stalls.
Steve
#3
If the engines are out of the boat I would at least remove the oil pan and take a peek at the main bearings.
Also, if you are looking for good drivability and reliability, then the cam you use will be extremely important. I had my engines built the same way...HP was not my priority---idle quailty/drivability were FIRST on the list. RMBuilder custom designed my cams for the way I wanted my engines to run. I have a pair of naturally aspirated 565cid engines. They will IDLE as low as 550-600rpm in NUETRAL without dying---makes for great shifting with my Bravo One XR's with 5-bladed props. In fact, it idles so smooth that you can hardly tell when shifting gears.
RMBuilder/Bob Madara of Marine Kinetics in N.Y. 585-654-8583. He is very intelligent/professional and has helped many guys here on OSO with custom cam selections. Have fun
Also, if you are looking for good drivability and reliability, then the cam you use will be extremely important. I had my engines built the same way...HP was not my priority---idle quailty/drivability were FIRST on the list. RMBuilder custom designed my cams for the way I wanted my engines to run. I have a pair of naturally aspirated 565cid engines. They will IDLE as low as 550-600rpm in NUETRAL without dying---makes for great shifting with my Bravo One XR's with 5-bladed props. In fact, it idles so smooth that you can hardly tell when shifting gears.
RMBuilder/Bob Madara of Marine Kinetics in N.Y. 585-654-8583. He is very intelligent/professional and has helped many guys here on OSO with custom cam selections. Have fun
Last edited by KAAMA; 02-25-2009 at 07:34 AM.
#4
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 648
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From: Tri-Cities, TN
I just purchased a pair of 594 c.i. Kurts Marine natually aspirated 750 hp motors. They were refreshed several years ago and have set unused. I started dissassembling them and found everything in reasonable condition except the #7 pushrod was missing and the tab on the lifter that ties it to the other lifter was broken. The nuts that hold the rocker shaft were both loose. Of course the owner does not know how ther rod was missing everything was in running condition when winterized. The cams have mild wear patterns, lifters show mild wear, still hone marks in the cylinders, main bearings show almost perfect. The intake valves have mild/moderate rust. Heads have pitting corrossion where several exhaust ports are(not in just on flange) I have a 34 DCB with some of Dick's drives. My goal is reliability and perfect docking manners, then hp third. I'm thinking might like to switch to hydraulic roller_ cam and I am thinking of efi. I'm going to go with my great shape motors for this season and take my time on these. Here's parts list;
-Lunati cranks 4.625 stroke
-Bowtie blocks-
-Oliver rods 6.535 length
-BRC 4.520 pistons
-Dart Big Chief Heads, T&D Shaft Rocker 1.7
-Manley valves Isky Tool Room Springs
-Crane solid roller cam with .714 lift
-Jesel belt drive
-Dart intake and Dominator carb
-Merc ignition
-9:1 compression
Thanks, Eric
-Lunati cranks 4.625 stroke
-Bowtie blocks-
-Oliver rods 6.535 length
-BRC 4.520 pistons
-Dart Big Chief Heads, T&D Shaft Rocker 1.7
-Manley valves Isky Tool Room Springs
-Crane solid roller cam with .714 lift
-Jesel belt drive
-Dart intake and Dominator carb
-Merc ignition
-9:1 compression
Thanks, Eric
Eric,
I would contact Stan at Stef's. He worked for Kurt for many years and I would be willing to be he knows the engines you have bought inside and out. His number at the shop is 732 367 8700. Tell him I told you to call.
#5
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,055
Likes: 91
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Thanks for the replies, does anyone care to speculate on the missing rod? I don't guess my Stellings' tails will fit will they? The 509's are 9.8's. I assume the exhaust ports will be about 1.25" higher and .5 wider.





