Antifreeze in bilge
05-12-2009 | 01:32 PM
#1
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From: Denton, Tx
Antifreeze in bilge
alright experts, i got a new 2007 496ho that leaves some drops of antifreeze in the bilge after every run. not much, but enough to annoy me. i have tightened everything that i can get a wrench on. just wondering if there is any advice out there on where the culprit might be (any common leaks). any help would be greatly appreciated. I have read something about a recall maybe.
chad
chad
05-12-2009 | 02:04 PM
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From: San Diego, California
Look around the two rubber seals under the heat exchanger, if you see wetness or a piece of paper towel can wick any up then change the two rubber rings under the this exchanger thats mounted to the crossover on the front of the engine. Make sure you install them with a tiny amount of grease on the sealing surfaces. Not expensive parts from Merc, but they can be a pain when they leak sometimes. You will have to drain and save the coolant to remove the exchanger, at Raylar we remove the top of the big hose that comes up from the circulating engine water pump to the crossover and drain the water down from there which lowers the level enough to remove the exchanger without draining all the coolant from the block. Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
05-12-2009 | 02:37 PM
#3
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From: Denton, Tx
That sounds like what it is. Is there a change in the rubber rings? Do you think it was a bad install from factory? Just lookng for the reason for this. Guess I will know when I tear into it. Might as well go ahead and put the Raylar kit on it while I am there, ha ha! The kit is definitely in my future. Thanks Ray, you really do us wanna be's a service by helping.
chad
chad
05-13-2009 | 12:59 AM
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Literally drop them in the GM brand sealant or any other flippin' sealant you want.. I've tried them all.
Seal the threads all the way up. Cover the shank of the bolt. Massively coat BOTH sides of a washer. Coat underneath the actual hex head of bolt. Put more around lip of hole.
Pfhuckers still leak! Grinds your gears after you've poweder coated everything and expoxy coated the bilge etc... Tried using the GM brand stop leak for aluminum. Failed. But it sure ruined my nice new white coolant tank. What the hell - who needs a nice clear coolant tank anyway? Get the carbon tank and don't pull your drain plugs out around the dog ......
I don't know what else to say. Pizzed.
All I can say is that if you guys figure it out please let me know as I'm down to my last tissue over here.
Last edited by SDFever; 05-13-2009 at 11:48 PM. Reason: My suggested possibility was incorrect about the bolt not fitting the head surface properly.
05-13-2009 | 10:05 AM
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I don't get it. Remove the bolts. Clean the outside of holes well. Clean the bolts on wire wheel so bolts are perfectly clean.
Literally drop them in the GM brand sealant or any other flippin' sealant you want.. I've tried them all.
Seal the threads all the way up. Cover the shank of the bolt. Massively coat BOTH sides of a washer. Coat underneath the actual hex head of bolt. Put more around lip of hole.
Pfhuckers still leak! Grinds your gears after you've poweder coated everything and expoxy coated the bilge etc... Tried using the GM brand stop leak for aluminum. Failed. But it sure ruined my nice new white coolant tank. What the hell - who needs a nice clear coolant tank anyway? Get the carbon tank and don't pull your drain plugs out around the dog ......
I don't know what else to say. Pizzed.
All I can say is that if you guys figure it out please let me know as I'm down to my last tissue over here.
One more thing.. Not pointing any blame what so ever but it's remotely possible that my port head is less than perfect causing the bolts to line up crooked only around the top where the bolt would normally seat.??? I dunno. I doubt it.
Literally drop them in the GM brand sealant or any other flippin' sealant you want.. I've tried them all.
Seal the threads all the way up. Cover the shank of the bolt. Massively coat BOTH sides of a washer. Coat underneath the actual hex head of bolt. Put more around lip of hole.
Pfhuckers still leak! Grinds your gears after you've poweder coated everything and expoxy coated the bilge etc... Tried using the GM brand stop leak for aluminum. Failed. But it sure ruined my nice new white coolant tank. What the hell - who needs a nice clear coolant tank anyway? Get the carbon tank and don't pull your drain plugs out around the dog ......
I don't know what else to say. Pizzed.
All I can say is that if you guys figure it out please let me know as I'm down to my last tissue over here.
One more thing.. Not pointing any blame what so ever but it's remotely possible that my port head is less than perfect causing the bolts to line up crooked only around the top where the bolt would normally seat.??? I dunno. I doubt it.
I feel your pain - I'm resealing two head bolts for the third time!! Mine never started leaking until I put my stock thermostat (160) back in (had a 120 before). At first they dripped only after a good run, then it was as soon as I fired up the engine.
Tried Permatex, ARP, this time I'm going to take a tap to the block threads to completely remove any residue and will try sealing with some kind of special silicone that a gearhead friend swears by.
Will let you know if it works.
05-13-2009 | 11:47 PM
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Is this stuff removable with tools? Like I've heard lots of guys say don't use red loctite because it doesn't come loose but that's not true at all...
If the 2111 can be broken free without damage I'll try anything.
BTW, I was wrong about the bolts not ligning up against the surface of the head. It has NOTHING to do with Raylar. I've had some messages regarding stock heads leaking after they went back on as well. Seems like some guys get lucky as I did with the 525 kit but now I'm having issue with it.
Originally, we had some leaking with the 525 installation but it went away completely on it's own as the sealant took hold from heat to cold.
If the 2111 can be broken free without damage I'll try anything.
BTW, I was wrong about the bolts not ligning up against the surface of the head. It has NOTHING to do with Raylar. I've had some messages regarding stock heads leaking after they went back on as well. Seems like some guys get lucky as I did with the 525 kit but now I'm having issue with it.
Originally, we had some leaking with the 525 installation but it went away completely on it's own as the sealant took hold from heat to cold.
Last edited by SDFever; 05-13-2009 at 11:49 PM.
05-14-2009 | 06:26 AM
#10
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From: New Hartford CT
Is this stuff removable with tools? Like I've heard lots of guys say don't use red loctite because it doesn't come loose but that's not true at all...
If the 2111 can be broken free without damage I'll try anything.
BTW, I was wrong about the bolts not ligning up against the surface of the head. It has NOTHING to do with Raylar. I've had some messages regarding stock heads leaking after they went back on as well. Seems like some guys get lucky as I did with the 525 kit but now I'm having issue with it.
Originally, we had some leaking with the 525 installation but it went away completely on it's own as the sealant took hold from heat to cold.
If the 2111 can be broken free without damage I'll try anything.
BTW, I was wrong about the bolts not ligning up against the surface of the head. It has NOTHING to do with Raylar. I've had some messages regarding stock heads leaking after they went back on as well. Seems like some guys get lucky as I did with the 525 kit but now I'm having issue with it.
Originally, we had some leaking with the 525 installation but it went away completely on it's own as the sealant took hold from heat to cold.
It is also sold through Yamaha shops as Yamabond I believe.
If you would want some, I would try looking a Metric motorcycle shops for it or perhaps local speed shops/engine builders.
Ken
