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Old 05-19-2009 | 07:51 PM
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need a quick refresh on adjusting valves on a big block with hydrolic roller lifters and cam, its zero lash then 3/4 turn and 1/4 turn lock, right? also can't i adjust more valves than just one at a time? whats the correct way to go about it
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Old 05-19-2009 | 08:12 PM
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zero it out and 1/2 to 3/4 turn on hydraulic cams. If you have a big cam with a lot of lift and duration you're best to adjust them one at a time. There's the quick way but I prefer to do em one at a time unless it's a stock engine.
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Old 05-19-2009 | 09:00 PM
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Crane has a good explantion on their web site. Just get zero lash then I turn slightly more than one half turn. Some people say 1/2 and some 3/4. Then tighten down poly lock. I do one cylinder at a time.
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Old 05-20-2009 | 01:30 AM
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Crane's website is gone...........but I happen to have posted the directions in another thread and here they are. BTW, I use 3/4 of a turn after 0 lash.

This is the method from the Crane site


Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload

In order to adjust the preload, the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or "Heel" of the lobe.

At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder that you are going to set the preload on.

2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
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Old 05-20-2009 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Griff
Crane's website is gone...........but I happen to have posted the directions in another thread and here they are. BTW, I use 3/4 of a turn after 0 lash.

This is the method from the Crane site


Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload

In order to adjust the preload, the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or "Heel" of the lobe.

At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder that you are going to set the preload on.

2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
GRIFF, Good job on finding/Saving old info you would normaly take for granted and normaly would not save, Because you would think in normal times you would not need to save it because you would think to your self as long as you know where you could go find the info at any time you would want or need It From seeing it from some place from the past, You would think it would be there when you would need it later, But now with every thing closing up and going away in these hard times I guess it might make you think different because it might not be there any more.
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Old 05-20-2009 | 06:04 AM
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thanks guys
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Old 05-20-2009 | 06:22 AM
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Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
The key is to wait for the lifter to return to the neutral position. If the lifters are new, or have not seen oil pressure in a while, or if you are running moderate spring pressure, rotating the engine around may collapse the lifter. I like to back all the rockers way off first and adjust one at a time. This way, when you rotate the crank, the rockers that are backed way off will not affect the lifters and they all should already be in the nuetral position.
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Old 05-20-2009 | 06:51 AM
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Yes, I always start with all of the rockers backed off also.
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Old 05-20-2009 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by boat teck
GRIFF, Good job on finding/Saving old info you would normaly take for granted and normaly would not save, Because you would think in normal times you would not need to save it because you would think to your self as long as you know where you could go find the info at any time you would want or need It From seeing it from some place from the past, You would think it would be there when you would need it later, But now with every thing closing up and going away in these hard times I guess it might make you think different because it might not be there any more.

I remembered copying and pasting it into another thread a while back and then used the advance search to find it.
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Old 05-20-2009 | 03:51 PM
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top
ex-1,3,4,8
in- 1,2,5,7
180
ex-2,5,6,7
in-3,4,6,8

Last edited by baja36ft; 05-20-2009 at 03:57 PM.
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