Calling All Whippled 496 Owners
06-15-2009 | 08:28 AM
#1
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From: Missouri
Calling All Whippled 496 Owners
I have a (non Whippled) 496 with similar horse power and a big oil temperature problem at WOT even after extensive modifications to improve the situation. I am looking for any Whippled 496 owners that do not have an oil temperature problem when running at WOT for extended period to learn what works.
Last edited by Rage; 06-15-2009 at 08:32 AM.
06-15-2009 | 02:18 PM
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I have a (non Whippled) 496 with similar horse power and a big oil temperature problem at WOT even after extensive modifications to improve the situation. I am looking for any Whippled 496 owners that do not have an oil temperature problem when running at WOT for extended period to learn what works.
06-15-2009 | 06:14 PM
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From: Missouri
After about 5 1/2 min @ WOT the oil temperature hits 280F and is still climbing. This is only testing to see if there was a thermal saturation point where the oil temperature would stabilize and stop increasing at WOT. I have not found it yet and I will not go above 280F even during brief testing.
Last edited by Rage; 06-15-2009 at 06:16 PM.
06-17-2009 | 11:54 AM
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Rage,
I too experienced quicker rises in oil temp after additional hp was added.
For the sake of error on conservative side and with obvious interest in keeping an engine as long as possible, I made the personal rule of backing off to mid 3's when the guage at the helm reads 200 degrees. At this point it's actually about 20-30 degrees hotter per temp gun. Sounds like our temps are almost the same because I don't remember last time I held it open for solid 5 minutes.
Going from stock to all the Raylar stuff, it now takes less time to get there due to the extra heat being generated. Just over 5 minutes of wot is enough for me. We rarely run that much as it seems like eternity to hold a boat engine open that long.
Of course, many will disagree with me but that's just how I feel about it. For me, 5 minutes is probably somewhere around 7 miles and if you need to run wot longer than that than you're just gonna have to plumb the system to cope.
I use the stock oil cooler etc. Are you using it as well or did you buy something else?
My question is: how long do you want to run it open? It's a matter of how often do you want to buy or build an engine right??
Also, I've experienced a huge difference in different oils. It does make a difference.
I too experienced quicker rises in oil temp after additional hp was added.
For the sake of error on conservative side and with obvious interest in keeping an engine as long as possible, I made the personal rule of backing off to mid 3's when the guage at the helm reads 200 degrees. At this point it's actually about 20-30 degrees hotter per temp gun. Sounds like our temps are almost the same because I don't remember last time I held it open for solid 5 minutes.
Going from stock to all the Raylar stuff, it now takes less time to get there due to the extra heat being generated. Just over 5 minutes of wot is enough for me. We rarely run that much as it seems like eternity to hold a boat engine open that long.
Of course, many will disagree with me but that's just how I feel about it. For me, 5 minutes is probably somewhere around 7 miles and if you need to run wot longer than that than you're just gonna have to plumb the system to cope.
I use the stock oil cooler etc. Are you using it as well or did you buy something else?
My question is: how long do you want to run it open? It's a matter of how often do you want to buy or build an engine right??
Also, I've experienced a huge difference in different oils. It does make a difference.
Last edited by SDFever; 06-17-2009 at 12:20 PM.
06-17-2009 | 03:47 PM
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From: Missouri
Rage,
I too experienced quicker rises in oil temp after additional hp was added.
For the sake of error on conservative side and with obvious interest in keeping an engine as long as possible, I made the personal rule of backing off to mid 3's when the guage at the helm reads 200 degrees. At this point it's actually about 20-30 degrees hotter per temp gun. Sounds like our temps are almost the same because I don't remember last time I held it open for solid 5 minutes.
Going from stock to all the Raylar stuff, it now takes less time to get there due to the extra heat being generated. Just over 5 minutes of wot is enough for me. We rarely run that much as it seems like eternity to hold a boat engine open that long.
Of course, many will disagree with me but that's just how I feel about it. For me, 5 minutes is probably somewhere around 7 miles and if you need to run wot longer than that than you're just gonna have to plumb the system to cope.
I use the stock oil cooler etc. Are you using it as well or did you buy something else?
My question is: how long do you want to run it open? It's a matter of how often do you want to buy or build an engine right??
Also, I've experienced a huge difference in different oils. It does make a difference.
I too experienced quicker rises in oil temp after additional hp was added.
For the sake of error on conservative side and with obvious interest in keeping an engine as long as possible, I made the personal rule of backing off to mid 3's when the guage at the helm reads 200 degrees. At this point it's actually about 20-30 degrees hotter per temp gun. Sounds like our temps are almost the same because I don't remember last time I held it open for solid 5 minutes.
Going from stock to all the Raylar stuff, it now takes less time to get there due to the extra heat being generated. Just over 5 minutes of wot is enough for me. We rarely run that much as it seems like eternity to hold a boat engine open that long.
Of course, many will disagree with me but that's just how I feel about it. For me, 5 minutes is probably somewhere around 7 miles and if you need to run wot longer than that than you're just gonna have to plumb the system to cope.
I use the stock oil cooler etc. Are you using it as well or did you buy something else?
My question is: how long do you want to run it open? It's a matter of how often do you want to buy or build an engine right??
Also, I've experienced a huge difference in different oils. It does make a difference.
I am just trying to find out what it takes to keep the oil in a closed cooling ~600hp 496 cool enough for extended WOT running. Then I will decide if it is worth it. I have yet to find one that I can confirm will do so.
06-18-2009 | 11:41 AM
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Ok, I remember that as well...
For what it's worth, all coolers are not created equal. Certain alloys dissipate heat quicker and more efficiently. Hence, you can find some larger ones that are cheaper than smaller Mercs. It's not just the size of the cooler but the type of alloy blend that it's derivative of.
I remember you started out with the stock 496 cooler I think and then moved the the one you have now. Is the Hardin a honey comb type or the other style?
Another thing to consider is slowing down the water flow slightly. There can be a fine line between just passing water over the rods quickly vs. letting the water "absorb" the heat before moving on...
Also, did you install a higher pressure by pass valve in the block or did you leave the stock one in there? The remote filter assembly poses some resistance itself and a larger amount of your oil (not all of it) could be not even making it into the filter which is why you'd typically upgrade that valve.
I use the stock oil cooler and don't really have any problems with it. One other thing - - Are you measuring your temp coming out of the block or going in? Mine reads around 200+ going in but closer to 300 coming out.
I use AMS Oil 20/50 and can run for a while without heating it up.
For what it's worth, all coolers are not created equal. Certain alloys dissipate heat quicker and more efficiently. Hence, you can find some larger ones that are cheaper than smaller Mercs. It's not just the size of the cooler but the type of alloy blend that it's derivative of.
I remember you started out with the stock 496 cooler I think and then moved the the one you have now. Is the Hardin a honey comb type or the other style?
Another thing to consider is slowing down the water flow slightly. There can be a fine line between just passing water over the rods quickly vs. letting the water "absorb" the heat before moving on...
Also, did you install a higher pressure by pass valve in the block or did you leave the stock one in there? The remote filter assembly poses some resistance itself and a larger amount of your oil (not all of it) could be not even making it into the filter which is why you'd typically upgrade that valve.
I use the stock oil cooler and don't really have any problems with it. One other thing - - Are you measuring your temp coming out of the block or going in? Mine reads around 200+ going in but closer to 300 coming out.
I use AMS Oil 20/50 and can run for a while without heating it up.
Last edited by SDFever; 06-18-2009 at 11:44 AM.
06-18-2009 | 02:27 PM
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From: Missouri
Ok, I remember that as well...
For what it's worth, all coolers are not created equal. Certain alloys dissipate heat quicker and more efficiently. Hence, you can find some larger ones that are cheaper than smaller Mercs. It's not just the size of the cooler but the type of alloy blend that it's derivative of.
I remember you started out with the stock 496 cooler I think and then moved the the one you have now. Is the Hardin a honey comb type or the other style? The Hardin cooler is all copper construction in the cooling area with the water flowing inside the small tubes and the oil flowing around the cluster of tubes incased in a 3" dia seamless copper tube. About as good a material/construction as available.
Another thing to consider is slowing down the water flow slightly. There can be a fine line between just passing water over the rods quickly vs. letting the water "absorb" the heat before moving on...Thermodynamically faster flowing water is better since heat transfer is faster the bigger the temperature gradient. Slower water will become hotter at the interface thus reducing the temperature gradient and reducing efficiency.
Also, did you install a higher pressure by pass valve in the block or did you leave the stock one in there? Yes, I did install the high pressure oil bypass valve.The remote filter assembly poses some resistance itself and a larger amount of your oil (not all of it) could be not even making it into the filter which is why you'd typically upgrade that valve.
I use the stock oil cooler and don't really have any problems with it. I was using the stock oil cooler until I ran into low oil pressure (also with the stock oil lines that were very restrictive) which caused me to install the oil temperature gage. Then I installed the bigger cooler and bigger oil lines and fittings. In the process I discovered heat damaged seals. I know good synthetic oil can handle the high oil temps but the seals are another matter. One other thing - - Are you measuring your temp coming out of the block or going in? Mine reads around 200+ going in but closer to 300 coming out. I am measuring the oil temp coming out of the engine. I spot checked the oil going into the engine (see attached) and when the oil coming out of the engine is 244F the oil going into the engine is in the 170's.
I use AMS Oil 20/50 and can run for a while without heating it up.
For what it's worth, all coolers are not created equal. Certain alloys dissipate heat quicker and more efficiently. Hence, you can find some larger ones that are cheaper than smaller Mercs. It's not just the size of the cooler but the type of alloy blend that it's derivative of.
I remember you started out with the stock 496 cooler I think and then moved the the one you have now. Is the Hardin a honey comb type or the other style? The Hardin cooler is all copper construction in the cooling area with the water flowing inside the small tubes and the oil flowing around the cluster of tubes incased in a 3" dia seamless copper tube. About as good a material/construction as available.
Another thing to consider is slowing down the water flow slightly. There can be a fine line between just passing water over the rods quickly vs. letting the water "absorb" the heat before moving on...Thermodynamically faster flowing water is better since heat transfer is faster the bigger the temperature gradient. Slower water will become hotter at the interface thus reducing the temperature gradient and reducing efficiency.
Also, did you install a higher pressure by pass valve in the block or did you leave the stock one in there? Yes, I did install the high pressure oil bypass valve.The remote filter assembly poses some resistance itself and a larger amount of your oil (not all of it) could be not even making it into the filter which is why you'd typically upgrade that valve.
I use the stock oil cooler and don't really have any problems with it. I was using the stock oil cooler until I ran into low oil pressure (also with the stock oil lines that were very restrictive) which caused me to install the oil temperature gage. Then I installed the bigger cooler and bigger oil lines and fittings. In the process I discovered heat damaged seals. I know good synthetic oil can handle the high oil temps but the seals are another matter. One other thing - - Are you measuring your temp coming out of the block or going in? Mine reads around 200+ going in but closer to 300 coming out. I am measuring the oil temp coming out of the engine. I spot checked the oil going into the engine (see attached) and when the oil coming out of the engine is 244F the oil going into the engine is in the 170's.
I use AMS Oil 20/50 and can run for a while without heating it up.
Thanks for the input. See above.
06-18-2009 | 06:16 PM
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From: Pgh. Pa.
I have whippled 496 ,s they make 800 hp all coolers stock ,except my heat exchanger is 5 inch I start to see oil temps after 7to 10 miles at 96 to 100 mph then I run negative boost for about a mile temps come right down lean on again things happen fast at that speed I have to pay attention I watch my temp gage more when it starts to rise over 150 I go negative I also run 120 thermostats
Last edited by crayolacrazy; 06-18-2009 at 06:29 PM.
