E.O.H. Actuator
#1
I'm making a parts list to switch from surge disc to eoh. I have a few ??
1. Anyone have any feedback on the Carlisle Hydrastar or Dexter K71-651-00? I'm leaning toward the Carlisle package.
2. How do I figure out how much pressure I need from the actuator (1K, 1,200 or 1,600lbs) ? I doubt I can get this info from the trailer mfc.
3. Anyone install the Maxbrake controller in their truck, and is it time consuming?
Sorry for all the questions, but I have a lot to consider before I purchase.
1. Anyone have any feedback on the Carlisle Hydrastar or Dexter K71-651-00? I'm leaning toward the Carlisle package.
2. How do I figure out how much pressure I need from the actuator (1K, 1,200 or 1,600lbs) ? I doubt I can get this info from the trailer mfc.
3. Anyone install the Maxbrake controller in their truck, and is it time consuming?
Sorry for all the questions, but I have a lot to consider before I purchase.
#2
I installed the MaxBrake controller on my 2000 7.3L PSD. It didn't take long to install at all, maybe 2 hours.
Worst part was trying to get to NOT leak. Pay close attention to the threads on the parts they sent you. I recommend going to Napa or similar and seeing if you can eliminate some of the converters that they send you for the brake line. Per alert from US1Fountain here on OSO, I double checked and MaxBrake sent me the wrong "T" for my brake line, just like they did on his kit.
I strongly advise buying a short tube of the carbon "hand bendable" brakeline while you are at the parts store, vice the short stick they send you with the kit that really needs a brake line bender to avoid kinks. I think it was $5 bucks for an 8" tube.
My Myco trailer came with the Brake Rite E/H controller and I really like how well the whole setup works.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...-pressure.html
I put the same post up on Serious with a lot of good info response as well.
Worst part was trying to get to NOT leak. Pay close attention to the threads on the parts they sent you. I recommend going to Napa or similar and seeing if you can eliminate some of the converters that they send you for the brake line. Per alert from US1Fountain here on OSO, I double checked and MaxBrake sent me the wrong "T" for my brake line, just like they did on his kit.
I strongly advise buying a short tube of the carbon "hand bendable" brakeline while you are at the parts store, vice the short stick they send you with the kit that really needs a brake line bender to avoid kinks. I think it was $5 bucks for an 8" tube.
My Myco trailer came with the Brake Rite E/H controller and I really like how well the whole setup works.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...-pressure.html
I put the same post up on Serious with a lot of good info response as well.
#3
Thanks for the post Sydwayz, I thought you might have some good info. I think you've talked me out of the other set ups (I liked the look of those over the ugly IMO Brakerite actuator). However, it's probably more feasable to go with the Brakerite/Brakemax combo and I'm sure it will work better. Thanks for setting me straight.
#4
Make sure you mount your E/H actuator high enough that it has NO chance of getting wet when dipping the trailer. Accordingly, don't put it right under the nose of the boat so any/all rain/wash water pours directly onto it with force either.
#5
Thanks for the heads up. I'll be installing this winter, still too darn hot here in AZ. I'll post with the results. One last thing, Do you have the Brakerite SD model? If not, wich one do you have?
Last edited by sleek1; 08-05-2009 at 11:43 AM.
#6
It appears as though I have this plain jane model as I don't have all of the extra components that the SD appears to include here:
http://www.trailerpart.com/brakerite.htm
Also, make sure you mount your break-away switch at a place where it's not vulnerable. Mine was mounted on the lowest portion of the trailer where a high-center crossing would destroy it, and/or if you were lifting the trailer with a fork-lift. The break-away switch does have open electrical contacts in it, so away from water is also good. On my Myco, I moved it into the tunnel underneath the main square tube holding the coupler.
http://www.trailerpart.com/brakerite.htm
Also, make sure you mount your break-away switch at a place where it's not vulnerable. Mine was mounted on the lowest portion of the trailer where a high-center crossing would destroy it, and/or if you were lifting the trailer with a fork-lift. The break-away switch does have open electrical contacts in it, so away from water is also good. On my Myco, I moved it into the tunnel underneath the main square tube holding the coupler.




