Manual Drive Trim Actuators (How To)
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,356
Likes: 1,515
From: NW Michigan
OK guys,
I have TRS drives and purchased some Trim acuators and clamps last summer on the board. They are the SS ones that have the spring in them. I can see where they attach etc. however wanted to make sure I get the right cables and also what is the most effective yet reasonable dash mount guage/indicator. Also what does the back of the indicator look like where the cable hooks up. Do these usually use the 33c cables?
Any advice on the subject would be great.
Thanks,
John
I would consider a used if anybody has something they want to off for a fair price.
I have TRS drives and purchased some Trim acuators and clamps last summer on the board. They are the SS ones that have the spring in them. I can see where they attach etc. however wanted to make sure I get the right cables and also what is the most effective yet reasonable dash mount guage/indicator. Also what does the back of the indicator look like where the cable hooks up. Do these usually use the 33c cables?
Any advice on the subject would be great.
Thanks,
John
I would consider a used if anybody has something they want to off for a fair price.
#2
Hey John,
Some of the Mech. indicators hook directly up to the 33 cables.
Livorsi has a "no slack" series that requires a panel where the 33's hook up to and smaller cables go to the indicator panel.
"0" out your drives making the cav plates parallel to the hull bottom. Adjust the cables so the indicator reads "0". Simple process really. Indicators come up on ebay and here quite a bit. I'm sure someone has one lying around. I'd sell you mine if you need one for 2 tabs and 2 drives. I'm looking to get one of the pop up style since I have no tabs anyway.
Some of the Mech. indicators hook directly up to the 33 cables.
Livorsi has a "no slack" series that requires a panel where the 33's hook up to and smaller cables go to the indicator panel.
"0" out your drives making the cav plates parallel to the hull bottom. Adjust the cables so the indicator reads "0". Simple process really. Indicators come up on ebay and here quite a bit. I'm sure someone has one lying around. I'd sell you mine if you need one for 2 tabs and 2 drives. I'm looking to get one of the pop up style since I have no tabs anyway.
#3
Thread Starter
Registered

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,356
Likes: 1,515
From: NW Michigan
Hey John,
Some of the Mech. indicators hook directly up to the 33 cables.
Livorsi has a "no slack" series that requires a panel where the 33's hook up to and smaller cables go to the indicator panel.
"0" out your drives making the cav plates parallel to the hull bottom. Adjust the cables so the indicator reads "0". Simple process really. Indicators come up on ebay and here quite a bit. I'm sure someone has one lying around. I'd sell you mine if you need one for 2 tabs and 2 drives. I'm looking to get one of the pop up style since I have no tabs anyway.
Some of the Mech. indicators hook directly up to the 33 cables.
Livorsi has a "no slack" series that requires a panel where the 33's hook up to and smaller cables go to the indicator panel.
"0" out your drives making the cav plates parallel to the hull bottom. Adjust the cables so the indicator reads "0". Simple process really. Indicators come up on ebay and here quite a bit. I'm sure someone has one lying around. I'd sell you mine if you need one for 2 tabs and 2 drives. I'm looking to get one of the pop up style since I have no tabs anyway.
PM me when you can regarding the indicators. I do actually need both for the tabs and drives. Also let know what colors yous is. I see the pop up ones also but actuall kind of want the panel type you have. Any help would be great.
Thanks a lot,
John
Also where is the point of adjustment on these? At the dash components or at the drives/tabs?
#4
Mine is black, The indicator panel behind the dash or mounting panel is long and anchors the end of the cable sheathing. The adjustment is done there like on a shift or throttle cable bracket. The actuator end is clamped with a water seal fitting at the tube and the cable screws into the slide inside and rides on the cup mounted to the rear trim cylnder pin bolt. The spring inside provides a constant tension on the cup. The tube is anchored to the trim cylnder and the slide goes in and out as the cylnder extends and retracts. I'd send you a pic but the boat is burried in snow, STILL! Let me know if you find another before I get a chance to get this one out. If you see one take it, they don't stay around for sale very long. PS the trim ring has the color, black and can be changed with a new one or painted or powder coated etc. Talk soon, Bill By the way didn't you say you might have a cheap set of valve covers? Waiting on a pic, I know your busy.
#6
mine has slack,I ajust it to read right on the up/out direction, if I go past I start over when triming,also put a bungy cord on the taps to ajust,because there will be water pushing them up when running, slack sux!!!
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