How do i break in my new motor?
#2
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,569
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From: Grosse Pointe Farms, MI
Don't run it at a constant RPM no matter how low. I like to play with mine on the Dyno before I run them, but I've never been afraid to run my motors up in R's after a little bit of tuning and running. I don't hold it to the wood, but I spike it up here and there. IMO 20 hours is excessive.
#4
I am a firm believer in running the motor from day one the same way you plan on using the boat. If you baby it for a while and then change to running it hard, it will have a negative affect.
What you do need to do is change oil and filter after about 3 hours time and then at around 15 hours, then get on track for regular oil changes every 25-50 hours depending on how hard you run it.
Smitty
What you do need to do is change oil and filter after about 3 hours time and then at around 15 hours, then get on track for regular oil changes every 25-50 hours depending on how hard you run it.
Smitty
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#7
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 710
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I TAKE IT EASY THE FIRST FEW HOURS LET ALL THE ENGINE PARTS WEAR IN RIGTH
THEN CHANGE THE OIL TO GET ALL THE PARTICLES OUT OF THE OIL FROM BREAKING IN THE EGINE . ONCE THE MOTOR HAS SOME HOURS ON IT AND THE OIL BEEN CHANGE .THEN I WILL GET ON IT AND RUN IT LIKE I WANT TO. AND ALWAYS MAKE SHORE THE MOTOR IS WARM UP BEFORE I RUN THE MOTOR HARD
THEN CHANGE THE OIL TO GET ALL THE PARTICLES OUT OF THE OIL FROM BREAKING IN THE EGINE . ONCE THE MOTOR HAS SOME HOURS ON IT AND THE OIL BEEN CHANGE .THEN I WILL GET ON IT AND RUN IT LIKE I WANT TO. AND ALWAYS MAKE SHORE THE MOTOR IS WARM UP BEFORE I RUN THE MOTOR HARD
#9
I forgot the most important thing with any motor. Make sure the engine is at normal operating temps before you hit it hard. When an engine is cold and you hit it, you severely shorten its lifespan.
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#10
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 221
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From: Middle of the high desert
FWIW, this is what I was told on my 496 (and my 2 5.0's). If your drive is new you're also breaking that in. It pretty much goes along with what everyone else is saying:
For the first 10 hours, vary the power/rpm's, no WOT runs and keep it at 4k rpm or below. At the end of that first 10 hours, change the oil/filter and drive lube.
The second 10 hours, start "sneaking up" on WOT. It's important to run it SOME at WOT, but not for long; no more than a minute at a time but the first few WOT runs should be short ones. As Smitty points out, make sure you're up to operating temps first (oil temp, not water temp).
At 20 hours, change the oil/filter and the drive lube again and you're good to go. Remember though that the "black" motors aren't purpose built racing engines and, as such, really aren't made to run wide open all the time. The longer you run them at WOT the more you shorten their life expectancy.
Our 496mag HO is at 160 hours now; runs like a champ and doesn't burn a drop of oil. It also will turn the same prop about 100rpm more than it did at the end of the break in period so I'm thinking they need a bit of run time to loosen up.
For the first 10 hours, vary the power/rpm's, no WOT runs and keep it at 4k rpm or below. At the end of that first 10 hours, change the oil/filter and drive lube.
The second 10 hours, start "sneaking up" on WOT. It's important to run it SOME at WOT, but not for long; no more than a minute at a time but the first few WOT runs should be short ones. As Smitty points out, make sure you're up to operating temps first (oil temp, not water temp).
At 20 hours, change the oil/filter and the drive lube again and you're good to go. Remember though that the "black" motors aren't purpose built racing engines and, as such, really aren't made to run wide open all the time. The longer you run them at WOT the more you shorten their life expectancy.
Our 496mag HO is at 160 hours now; runs like a champ and doesn't burn a drop of oil. It also will turn the same prop about 100rpm more than it did at the end of the break in period so I'm thinking they need a bit of run time to loosen up.




