Tips for Towing Protection .....
06-08-2010 | 10:25 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 9
From: Northeast,Fla
Tips for Towing Protection .....
Picking up a boat out of Chicago this weekend and looking for tips on protecting the boat ...we are going to run with the moring cover and plan on taping the cover where it snaps on the boat to keep wind from getting under the cover(Blue Painters tape?) ...Any other tips or Ideas? ....... Trailer has six new tires ...We are going to carry 3 spares ...Bearings recently serviced ... m
06-08-2010 | 10:32 PM
#2
Registered
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,195
Likes: 28
From: Toronto, Ontario
Should be a fun trip, I am sure many of the guys on here will have better info then me, but I believe their is a tape called "hull saver" by 3m and it works better for taping down leading edges. Maybe bring a chain if you have to chain up an axle? Probably a good idea to bring basic tools. Maybe map out your fuel stops in advance so that you know where you can fit in to get fuel? Do an inspection at each stop, make sure the bearings and tires are not to hot, that the hitch is still secure, etc. Take it slow, better to arrive alive then to get in an accident! GOOD LUCK!
06-09-2010 | 08:57 AM
#6
Forum Regulator
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 24,215
Likes: 1,613
From: Worldwide
Hi Mike; got your email & happy to respond.
1) Mudflaps for the truck that are about 2" from the ground when the trailer is weight loaded on the hitch.
2) This is the tape you want to use:
http://www.dr-shrink.com/Store_Produ...FD511364G0g96h
True shrink wrap tape is too much adhesive and is designed for sticking shrink wrap to shrink wrap. Hull preservation tape is just sticky enough to bond to the fiberglass/gel and the cover for 24 hours or so with little to no residue left over.
3) Stop by Home Depot or Lowes or similar and pick up some of the non-adhesive foam pipe insulation--enough lengths to cover the edges of the windshield to protect it from chaffing the cover and/or cosmetic damage to the windshield frame.
4) If it's a torsion axle trailer, you probably want to bring a bottle jack and not a floor jack. The bottle jack will probably let you grab just the back of the spindle housing if needed. However, some torsion axle trailers are impervious to 'travel size' jacks. I carry a selection of about 15 2x6s at difference lengths so I can stack them high enough to drive the good tires/axles up high enough to work on a problem.
5) Several heavy duty ratchet straps so you can lift a problem axle/spindle to limp off the road.
6) You have no idea about the condition of the coupler, so inspect it carefully. Hook it up and lock it down. and use the tongue wheel to try and lift it off the ball. I like the drawbars that have a pintle that comes down and locks hovered above the coupler for this reason, or this is what I use: http://www.trailerguardian.com/ Never tow without a pin or a lock on the top of the coupler.
7) I also like a vertical or forward leaning ratchet strap on the bow eye to keep the bow on the winch stand/bow stop. This also aids in keeping the boat from moving forward, not to mention the safety chain. Obviously, use rear straps.
1) Mudflaps for the truck that are about 2" from the ground when the trailer is weight loaded on the hitch.
2) This is the tape you want to use:
http://www.dr-shrink.com/Store_Produ...FD511364G0g96h
True shrink wrap tape is too much adhesive and is designed for sticking shrink wrap to shrink wrap. Hull preservation tape is just sticky enough to bond to the fiberglass/gel and the cover for 24 hours or so with little to no residue left over.
3) Stop by Home Depot or Lowes or similar and pick up some of the non-adhesive foam pipe insulation--enough lengths to cover the edges of the windshield to protect it from chaffing the cover and/or cosmetic damage to the windshield frame.
4) If it's a torsion axle trailer, you probably want to bring a bottle jack and not a floor jack. The bottle jack will probably let you grab just the back of the spindle housing if needed. However, some torsion axle trailers are impervious to 'travel size' jacks. I carry a selection of about 15 2x6s at difference lengths so I can stack them high enough to drive the good tires/axles up high enough to work on a problem.
5) Several heavy duty ratchet straps so you can lift a problem axle/spindle to limp off the road.
6) You have no idea about the condition of the coupler, so inspect it carefully. Hook it up and lock it down. and use the tongue wheel to try and lift it off the ball. I like the drawbars that have a pintle that comes down and locks hovered above the coupler for this reason, or this is what I use: http://www.trailerguardian.com/ Never tow without a pin or a lock on the top of the coupler.
7) I also like a vertical or forward leaning ratchet strap on the bow eye to keep the bow on the winch stand/bow stop. This also aids in keeping the boat from moving forward, not to mention the safety chain. Obviously, use rear straps.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 06-09-2010 at 09:04 AM.
06-09-2010 | 10:20 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 9
From: Northeast,Fla
Mucho Gracias ' ..................m
Hi Mike; got your email & happy to respond.
1) Mudflaps for the truck that are about 2" from the ground when the trailer is weight loaded on the hitch.
2) This is the tape you want to use:
http://www.dr-shrink.com/Store_Produ...FD511364G0g96h
True shrink wrap tape is too much adhesive and is designed for sticking shrink wrap to shrink wrap. Hull preservation tape is just sticky enough to bond to the fiberglass/gel and the cover for 24 hours or so with little to no residue left over.
3) Stop by Home Depot or Lowes or similar and pick up some of the non-adhesive foam pipe insulation--enough lengths to cover the edges of the windshield to protect it from chaffing the cover and/or cosmetic damage to the windshield frame.
4) If it's a torsion axle trailer, you probably want to bring a bottle jack and not a floor jack. The bottle jack will probably let you grab just the back of the spindle housing if needed. However, some torsion axle trailers are impervious to 'travel size' jacks. I carry a selection of about 15 2x6s at difference lengths so I can stack them high enough to drive the good tires/axles up high enough to work on a problem.
5) Several heavy duty ratchet straps so you can lift a problem axle/spindle to limp off the road.
6) You have no idea about the condition of the coupler, so inspect it carefully. Hook it up and lock it down. and use the tongue wheel to try and lift it off the ball. I like the drawbars that have a pintle that comes down and locks hovered above the coupler for this reason, or this is what I use: http://www.trailerguardian.com/ Never tow without a pin or a lock on the top of the coupler.
7) I also like a vertical or forward leaning ratchet strap on the bow eye to keep the bow on the winch stand/bow stop. This also aids in keeping the boat from moving forward, not to mention the safety chain. Obviously, use rear straps.
1) Mudflaps for the truck that are about 2" from the ground when the trailer is weight loaded on the hitch.
2) This is the tape you want to use:
http://www.dr-shrink.com/Store_Produ...FD511364G0g96h
True shrink wrap tape is too much adhesive and is designed for sticking shrink wrap to shrink wrap. Hull preservation tape is just sticky enough to bond to the fiberglass/gel and the cover for 24 hours or so with little to no residue left over.
3) Stop by Home Depot or Lowes or similar and pick up some of the non-adhesive foam pipe insulation--enough lengths to cover the edges of the windshield to protect it from chaffing the cover and/or cosmetic damage to the windshield frame.
4) If it's a torsion axle trailer, you probably want to bring a bottle jack and not a floor jack. The bottle jack will probably let you grab just the back of the spindle housing if needed. However, some torsion axle trailers are impervious to 'travel size' jacks. I carry a selection of about 15 2x6s at difference lengths so I can stack them high enough to drive the good tires/axles up high enough to work on a problem.
5) Several heavy duty ratchet straps so you can lift a problem axle/spindle to limp off the road.
6) You have no idea about the condition of the coupler, so inspect it carefully. Hook it up and lock it down. and use the tongue wheel to try and lift it off the ball. I like the drawbars that have a pintle that comes down and locks hovered above the coupler for this reason, or this is what I use: http://www.trailerguardian.com/ Never tow without a pin or a lock on the top of the coupler.
7) I also like a vertical or forward leaning ratchet strap on the bow eye to keep the bow on the winch stand/bow stop. This also aids in keeping the boat from moving forward, not to mention the safety chain. Obviously, use rear straps.
