bravo one yoke on u joint assembly question
#1
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I took out the whole u joint assembly to take out the u joints and replace the smaller of the two yokes which is the one that goes to the inside of the outdrive because one of the ears was bent. The drive is a bravo one. I took off the yoke that goes to the motor and all I have to do is take the other yoke which is connected by a nut and goes with the gear on the u joint assembly. I have a pictured attached to this below. My question is now when replacing this yoke do I have to label anything on it? or do I just take it right off and put the new yoke in there and set the preload on the nut that holds the gear and the yoke along with the other things in place? The yoke moves along with the gear so I was asking because I didn't know if it had to be put the EXACT same way which I take it out? I didn't know if it would matter or not since all that matters is that I aligned the timing marks before I put the whole u joint assembly back correct?
#2
272,
Does not matter at what spot the yoke goes into the pinion gear. You can turn each (gear or yoke) to any matching spot. Just have to line up the splines and in it goes. Then use red loktite on the nut and shaft threads (clean with carb cleaner and blow dry before the loktite). Now tighten up the nut so there is some drag on the bearings.
If they are loose, and the ring between the two bearings moves around, it is a good idea to slip the whole thing into a housing and tighten it. That will align it all and it will slide in to the drive much easier, when you go for the final fit. Then tighten the retainer nut to 200ft/lbs. and you are good. I use Merc 101 grease on the retainer nut.. My torque wrench is set to 130ft/lb to get that 200ft/lb on the daisy wrench.
Hope that helps.
Dick
Does not matter at what spot the yoke goes into the pinion gear. You can turn each (gear or yoke) to any matching spot. Just have to line up the splines and in it goes. Then use red loktite on the nut and shaft threads (clean with carb cleaner and blow dry before the loktite). Now tighten up the nut so there is some drag on the bearings.
If they are loose, and the ring between the two bearings moves around, it is a good idea to slip the whole thing into a housing and tighten it. That will align it all and it will slide in to the drive much easier, when you go for the final fit. Then tighten the retainer nut to 200ft/lbs. and you are good. I use Merc 101 grease on the retainer nut.. My torque wrench is set to 130ft/lb to get that 200ft/lb on the daisy wrench.
Hope that helps.
Dick
#3
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Mr. Gadgets now that you mentioned it yes the ring between the two bearings does move around, so what is the easiest way to make sure that it goes back in even when I put the new yoke on there? you mentioned putting it into a housing but what exactly does that mean? I have a vise, would that work? sorry if it sounds a little elementary but I'm just trying to make sure I am aware of everything so it ends up being put back together good. I appreciate the help
Last edited by 272bajadriver; 06-24-2010 at 07:23 PM.
#4
If you put back into the snout of the upper housing, it will align the ring. But unless the gear stack removed, you can't do it that way. Then align it the best you can outside the housing. It may not slip in very well. Hope that helps.
Dick
Dick
#7
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From: Fort Worth, TX
It is an IMCO SC. I am looking at prices for all the pieces I need from IMCO vs. the entire assembly from Mercury. Doesn't appear to be a big difference compared to all the new parts you get with the assembly.
#8
There are 4 different size ujoints. Your looks to be an old style XR input shaft. It would be replaced by the new metric shaft without grease fittings.
If you are interested.. I may be able to dig a good used one up (complete unit). PM me..
Dick
If you are interested.. I may be able to dig a good used one up (complete unit). PM me..
Dick




