I ripped a brake line on my C-hawk trailer recently. I fixed it and bled the system out and now I have brakes again. Problem is they work too well. It almost seems like they are dragging and if I try to backup the trailer down the ramp, (not uphill) it binds and I can barely get the boat down the ramp.

I'm thinking the shock that dampens it might be bad. The shock still has resistance, but doesn’t have any pressure forcing the ram out at all times like a gas shock would. Is it supposed to work that way? Ideas???

Thanks,

Here's a link to the part with a diagram of my setup. Its part #4

http://rvtruckparts.com/ProductDetai...alerId=&SID=32

thats a good question , i have a similar set up without the backing up issues . i have two shock type cylinders and so you know they go in and out hard but evenly i dont know if they are supposed go in hard but come back out easy . just wanted to let you know that my trailer works the same way as yours and does not bind in reverse

Drum, or disk brakes?

It should not bind in reverse, you shoudl have the aux power line hooked up to a solenoid that stops the brakes from compressing when you put the truck in reverse. it is the center pin on my 7 pin connector.

Disk brakes

The solenoid was not working property so I removed it. I'd prefer not to replace it as most of these trailers with this actuator do not have it.

If you have disc brakes you need to solenoid to locout the actuator in reverse, unless you have a lock-out pin on your actuator that you can insert prior to reversing.

If you have drums you don't need it because the drums slip in reverse, but with discs you need it or you are stuck doing what you are already doing (shoving the trailer against the brakes).

The real problem is the brakes are too touchy even when you just let off the gas. There’s absolutely nothing stopping it from applying brakes at the slightest resistance. I only need brakes when I actually apply them. This design just sucks. I’m going to add a heavy spring on the shock ram to try and correct this bad engineering. Too bad I can’t find a gas filled shock that fits. That would be the perfect solution.
I know why the solenoid is normally there, but damn things are unreliable at best. Mine worked for less than one season and died. Electronics are best left off a trailer that gets wet. The solenoid won’t help except for reverse.
I may have to replace it, but I'll try everything else first.

I added a 15/16 diameter heavy spring that was 2.5" long to the ram. Problem solved...

The brakes work properly on the road and I can backup on level ground as long as I don’t jump on the gas. No solenoid required.