Help - Mud Sucking Low Water Pick-ups
#1
Bravo 1 - 2000 (502 gen VI) with LWP sucked up mud . Could not free the system and had to be towed in to avoid lovely 220*+ engine temps. Where do I start? Remove hoses off bottom of water pump and try to push back out drive? Coat hangar in actual outdrive holes?
What can I do about blued Q&Q system from high engine temps? What else should I be wary of? Had fresh oil but should I now change it?
Future? This situation due to low water levels in the chain of lakes I boat on will no doubt present itself again? What is the best fix? A lower with sidewater picks alone might not be good with the stepped hull/aeration issues.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!
Tim
What can I do about blued Q&Q system from high engine temps? What else should I be wary of? Had fresh oil but should I now change it?
Future? This situation due to low water levels in the chain of lakes I boat on will no doubt present itself again? What is the best fix? A lower with sidewater picks alone might not be good with the stepped hull/aeration issues.
THANKS IN ADVANCE!
Tim
#3
26ZX,
Pull off hose from transom assembly to sea pump, back flush outdrive.
Pull sea pump, disassemble, check/replace impeller. Also check if plate next to impeller is scored. The ps heat exchanger (horizontal mount on bellhousing) tends to get plugged as it's first in line. Pull hoses off both ends, look through with flashlight. You may need to poke through the passageways with a wire.
Pull thermostat housing, check for obstruction.
If you have a water pressure guage, you may also need to back flush the hose leading to the guage.
Where on chain did this happen?
Also, was that you at Livorsi a few weeks ago at lunchtime. I was with my son getting some more guages and bezels for my Whipple project.
Best Regards,
Mark S.
Pull off hose from transom assembly to sea pump, back flush outdrive.
Pull sea pump, disassemble, check/replace impeller. Also check if plate next to impeller is scored. The ps heat exchanger (horizontal mount on bellhousing) tends to get plugged as it's first in line. Pull hoses off both ends, look through with flashlight. You may need to poke through the passageways with a wire.
Pull thermostat housing, check for obstruction.
If you have a water pressure guage, you may also need to back flush the hose leading to the guage.
Where on chain did this happen?
Also, was that you at Livorsi a few weeks ago at lunchtime. I was with my son getting some more guages and bezels for my Whipple project.
Best Regards,
Mark S.
#4
Tim,
blued q&q may be cause to check flappers in exhaust tips. They're rubber coated on the edges and high temps caused by lack of water in exhaust may have deteriorated them.
Wouldn't hurt to change oil, but 220 isn't that high relative to what oil runs in autos.
You have to trim way up in most channels on the chain. Blarney is one of the worst spots. While your jockeying for a slip, your in some real shallow water. You can see the mud churning. Reverse helps as the thrust pushes "clear" surface water past the pickups. Trim up until you see the prop thrust behind you. Makes it a ***** to steer straight and it's harder on U joints but it's cheap insurance.
When comming off plane, trim up as the stern sinks down too.
Mark S.
blued q&q may be cause to check flappers in exhaust tips. They're rubber coated on the edges and high temps caused by lack of water in exhaust may have deteriorated them.
Wouldn't hurt to change oil, but 220 isn't that high relative to what oil runs in autos.
You have to trim way up in most channels on the chain. Blarney is one of the worst spots. While your jockeying for a slip, your in some real shallow water. You can see the mud churning. Reverse helps as the thrust pushes "clear" surface water past the pickups. Trim up until you see the prop thrust behind you. Makes it a ***** to steer straight and it's harder on U joints but it's cheap insurance.
When comming off plane, trim up as the stern sinks down too.
Mark S.
#5
Mark,
That was me at Livorsi. I've been boating on the chain for 12 years now, but this is only the second season with Low Water PU. It happened coming out of channel by McD's. Does the two large hoses that come through transom go first to sea water pump? I will jam a hose and backflush. Sea water pump (looking at motor from pulley side) is located down low/left correct? Power steering heat exchange is mounted on the transom wall? I'll be working on it tonite and will get a better idea of things. I was so disgusted I just trailered it home and covered.
Tim
That was me at Livorsi. I've been boating on the chain for 12 years now, but this is only the second season with Low Water PU. It happened coming out of channel by McD's. Does the two large hoses that come through transom go first to sea water pump? I will jam a hose and backflush. Sea water pump (looking at motor from pulley side) is located down low/left correct? Power steering heat exchange is mounted on the transom wall? I'll be working on it tonite and will get a better idea of things. I was so disgusted I just trailered it home and covered.
Tim
#6
Tim,
Large black hose goes from angle fitting on inner transom plate to bottom fitting on sea pump. You're correct about the location of the sea pump (it's also hard to remove all the nuts on the mounting studs holding it to the bracket). The top hose from the sea pump goes to the ps heat exchanger (probably the one on your transom). If you remove the water inlet hose from the black plastic fitting on the inner transom plate, you can stick a garden hose in the fitting to back flush the drive. You may want to buy a length of hose and fittings so you can generate some pressure to blow out any mud/sand through the bravo.
I had this happen once, but because I have a water pressure guage, I noticed zero pressure when getting on plane. I shut down before getting too hot. I may install sea strainers but I've heard they may not stop the mud. At any rate, the water pressure guage helps.
Mark S.
Large black hose goes from angle fitting on inner transom plate to bottom fitting on sea pump. You're correct about the location of the sea pump (it's also hard to remove all the nuts on the mounting studs holding it to the bracket). The top hose from the sea pump goes to the ps heat exchanger (probably the one on your transom). If you remove the water inlet hose from the black plastic fitting on the inner transom plate, you can stick a garden hose in the fitting to back flush the drive. You may want to buy a length of hose and fittings so you can generate some pressure to blow out any mud/sand through the bravo.
I had this happen once, but because I have a water pressure guage, I noticed zero pressure when getting on plane. I shut down before getting too hot. I may install sea strainers but I've heard they may not stop the mud. At any rate, the water pressure guage helps.
Mark S.
#8
I was considering a transom mounted low water pick-up with a sea strainer. Bryan Tuvell, one of our members, was considering using the stock PU plus a transom mount, "Y" pipe them together into a sea strainer (same boat). Thoughts?
#10
Treadwell uses side water pickup Bravos on his Factory race boats. And they are stepped hulls. The solution is to drill, tap and plug the top two holes on either side of the lower case. It's also been said that a "side pickup" drive can give a 2mph increase in top end over a "low water pickup" drive.
This one is for sale, by the way.
Eric
This one is for sale, by the way.
Eric
__________________
Boatless in Texas......for now
Boatless in Texas......for now



