Notices

fiberglass hole filling

Thread Tools
 
Old 09-13-2010 | 08:31 PM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: amissville, va
Default fiberglass hole filling

I was reading one of glassdaves tutorials, (filling holes in 36 cig dash) he said, glass a sheet as a backer then make a plug and use poly resin with west 404 filler. I was looking through a catalog and saw there were alot of choices for different epoxy resins but only one choice for poly. Is one better than an other? If I use epoxy on the whole process, is it ok? Or should I use the poly all the way? Does it matter what the factory used in original layup?

There is nick/ gouges around the bow loop, is resin/404 filler the best way to fill these nicks in to and strong enough for the abuse?

steve
saleensteve is offline  
Reply
Old 09-13-2010 | 09:15 PM
  #2  
J-Bonz's Avatar
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,977
Likes: 495
From: Cleveland, OH / Pewaukee, WI
Default

Originally Posted by saleensteve
I was reading one of glassdaves tutorials, (filling holes in 36 cig dash) he said, glass a sheet as a backer then make a plug and use poly resin with west 404 filler. I was looking through a catalog and saw there were alot of choices for different epoxy resins but only one choice for poly. Is one better than an other? If I use epoxy on the whole process, is it ok? Or should I use the poly all the way? Does it matter what the factory used in original layup?

There is nick/ gouges around the bow loop, is resin/404 filler the best way to fill these nicks in to and strong enough for the abuse?

steve
PM Dave, He will set you straight... It would take me to long to tell/type what I learned from him... He is a great guy!!
J-Bonz is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 08:13 AM
  #3  
LAKESIDE RESTORATIONS's Avatar
Lakeside Restorations.com
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,512
Likes: 2
From: NorthEastern, PA
Default

Epoxy resin is superior in strength & non shrinking qualities. However in general, if you start with epoxy you need to pretty much stay with an epoxy, as the mek in the poly stuff can soften the epoxy. There are a few tricks to getting around this to some extent, but unless you have done this stuff before I would recommend not going the that route.

In short, If you are going to use paint to finish then epoxy is fine and will give you some extra strength, otherwise if you plan to gel then it would be easier and a bit faster to use polyester resin & Mek hardened products rather than epoxy based..

Jamie / Lakeside
__________________
www.LakesideRestorations.com 570-639-2628
We Make Fast Toys Faster, Cool Toys Cooler and Old Toys New!.. Performance, Custom & OEM Parts & much MORE![/CENTER]
LAKESIDE RESTORATIONS is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 02:24 PM
  #4  
Registered
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Mulvane, KS
Default

It is always a good idea to stick with the materials that are used by the manufacturer.

Most of todays pleasure boats are laid up using either polyester or vinylester resin systems. Luckily these two systems are compatible with each other, polyester being the cheapest.

The severity of the damage will determine the proper way to repair it. If it is a large/deep gouge then you will need to prep the area and build it back up in layers, especially in a structural application. If it is simply a cosmetic problem, fill it, blend it and carry on.
Fast_Fibers is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 02:49 PM
  #5  
glassdave's Avatar
Neno the mind boggler
20 Year Member
Super Moderators
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 13,080
Likes: 320
From: toledo oh
Default

Originally Posted by Fast_Fibers
It is always a good idea to stick with the materials that are used by the manufacturer.

Most of todays pleasure boats are laid up using either polyester or vinylester resin systems. Luckily these two systems are compatible with each other, polyester being the cheapest.

The severity of the damage will determine the proper way to repair it. If it is a large/deep gouge then you will need to prep the area and build it back up in layers, especially in a structural application. If it is simply a cosmetic problem, fill it, blend it and carry on.
+1 on all that. If its structural, epoxy is the best way to go but for cosmetic repairs on the do-it-yourselfer level you will have an easier time using poly's. Use a good quality resin and 404 from West but you may need a light filler as a skim coat to take care of any porosity. Are you using paint or gel for color?

http://uscomposites.com/polyesters.html


Fast Fibers welcome to the site. Are you in the glass biz? Feel free to jump in any time we got some good tech knowledge here and can always use more.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
glassdave is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 03:35 PM
  #6  
Registered
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Mulvane, KS
Default

Thanks GlassDave, I am currently as senior in Plastics Engineering Technology in Manufacturing. My Education was driven by my love for composites and powerboats alike. I hope that I can offer some good advice here and also learn from the veterans of the site.
Fast_Fibers is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 03:39 PM
  #7  
glassdave's Avatar
Neno the mind boggler
20 Year Member
Super Moderators
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 13,080
Likes: 320
From: toledo oh
Default

cool, you have access to some great minds here (and some not so great ones lol)
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
glassdave is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 09:10 PM
  #8  
J-Bonz's Avatar
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,977
Likes: 495
From: Cleveland, OH / Pewaukee, WI
Default

Originally Posted by glassdave
(and some not so great ones lol)
Thanks Dave...........
J-Bonz is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 09:23 PM
  #9  
speedboatr's Avatar
Registered
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Mason, Ohio
Default

Originally Posted by LAKESIDE RESTORATIONS
Epoxy resin is superior in strength & non shrinking qualities. However in general, if you start with epoxy you need to pretty much stay with an epoxy, as the mek in the poly stuff can soften the epoxy. There are a few tricks to getting around this to some extent, but unless you have done this stuff before I would recommend not going the that route.

In short, If you are going to use paint to finish then epoxy is fine and will give you some extra strength, otherwise if you plan to gel then it would be easier and a bit faster to use polyester resin & Mek hardened products rather than epoxy based..

Jamie / Lakeside


so if i use West systems Epoxy and plan on spraying gel over it will this cause a problem..
speedboatr is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-2010 | 09:57 PM
  #10  
Registered
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Mulvane, KS
Default

Originally Posted by speedboatr
so if i use West systems Epoxy and plan on spraying gel over it will this cause a problem..
The best thing you can do is avoid mixing epoxies and esters. Like I mentioned before if your boat wasn't made with epoxy there is no reason to use it for your repair. Not to mention it is more difficult to use. Vinylester has similar characteristics to epoxy and will not conflict with the gelcoat, plus its cheaper
Fast_Fibers is offline  
Reply


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.