Crack repair
#1
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From: Holland, MI
What is the best filler to use once I get it down to the fiberglass? a couple of the cracks are +-2' long.
The spots I will be attempting to fix are going to be painted Imron...
On another note; When fixing little spots (chips) that will have to be gel matched, can I use the same stuff to fill those?
The spots I will be attempting to fix are going to be painted Imron...
On another note; When fixing little spots (chips) that will have to be gel matched, can I use the same stuff to fill those?
#4
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From: Holland, MI
these cracks are on the dash, from every screw around the compass, and across the other side in random locations. The dash is black, and VERY chalky; prob never waxed... is heat/ dryness of the fiberglass what caused this? Or did the previous owner have a kegger on the dash?
I would like to fix it right, is the 1708 the way to go?
How wide/ deep should I grind each way from the crack?
In my experience I have painted 2 cars but no fiberglass or Imron, 400 grit final sand before imron?
Then after; what should I use for wetsand; 1000 then buff w/ 3m super duty?
Thanks in advance for any advice as this is a budget resto...
I would like to fix it right, is the 1708 the way to go?
How wide/ deep should I grind each way from the crack?
In my experience I have painted 2 cars but no fiberglass or Imron, 400 grit final sand before imron?
Then after; what should I use for wetsand; 1000 then buff w/ 3m super duty?
Thanks in advance for any advice as this is a budget resto...
#5
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From: Holland, MI
Will the fiberglass resin finish out good or should I use a easier sanding filler over the top?
Or should I use an epoxy (stronger?) to fill the ground out areas, maybe get away with removing a little less material?
Starting this project tommorow...
Or should I use an epoxy (stronger?) to fill the ground out areas, maybe get away with removing a little less material?
Starting this project tommorow...
Last edited by mung272; 12-16-2010 at 08:48 PM.
#8
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From: Riverside, CA
I would just use polyester resin and a 1708. If its small area from screw holes you can use chop strand. The gelcoat is your finish. It has 0 strength and if there is a crack and you gelcoat over it, the gel will crack once it dries. Remember lots and lots of boats were built 20+ years ago with polyester and still running fine today. See pic to left.....Its also the cheapest and easy to work with. Fast wetout.
#9
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From: Holland, MI
bob, thanks for the reply, Had a dusty day, black gel is a B... I ground out all of the cracks today, looks like an antfarm...
I took it down to the material laid in the glass, it looks like a solid sheet of something w/ random holes?
I could see the crack as I was grinding, and got to the bottom of it. Fill time.
I am going to repaint the stripes on the sides of the boat, and would like to paint the dash as well, once the structural repairs are done w/ the glass, what besides gel can I use to smooth out the top finish?
Also, I am not set up to spray gel...
Thanks again!
I took it down to the material laid in the glass, it looks like a solid sheet of something w/ random holes?
I could see the crack as I was grinding, and got to the bottom of it. Fill time.
I am going to repaint the stripes on the sides of the boat, and would like to paint the dash as well, once the structural repairs are done w/ the glass, what besides gel can I use to smooth out the top finish?
Also, I am not set up to spray gel...
Thanks again!



