I just purchased my Avenger last fall and am back into Great Lakes boating since owning a 30 ft. Scarab back in 95. I appreciate help with some questions:
1.) With 502's how often are you rebuilding the Sea Pumps? Every year? Full rebuild kit one year & impeller only the next year?
2.) In checking the Bravo drives toe in/out - with the props spinning out would the correct dimesion be approximately 1/8" closer at the prop shafts than at the nose cones?
3.) What can you tell me about the operation of the head? It looks like a true port-a-potty, but it is a pump-out??? Does it work well?
4.) I'll be looking for other PQ owners - I'll be launching out of Toledo Beach Marina.
THANKS!

A friend does mine every other year. I buy the impeller and housing.
I have the vacuflush and it works great so far.

Dont know anything about the drives but im sure boatnt can answer your questions.

The pumps i would just put an impeller in ever spring if you feel better I just carry one with me in the boat
As far as the drives go what year is the boat? If it is a 98 or newer I would spin them in "Step Hull"
I use my head in our boat they work fine if you have a good pump out station, pump it out put some water in it to rinse and re-suck, WOW that sounds wrong.....
Also post some pics of the boat so we can see it.

My understanding on drives was on step hulls spin them in and on older flat v's spin them out. Toe in or out 1/8 opposite of spin. So if you spin them out toe in the drives an 1/8 and if you spin then in toe out the drives an 1/8. Mines an older Flat v but I spin them in anyway it was a tad faster. Try it both ways and check with GPS it's really up to personal prefrence. I will say the boat was easier to back to the dock with props spinning out.

Hammerd,

I have a "95" - point of clarification, when you talk about toe in or out is your suggestion that this measurement be taken at the prop shafts? Since mine spin "out" your recommending is that measurement at the prop shaft would be 1/8" closer than the measurement at the nose cones -right?

I read in Bob Teauges tech response that if your props spin in then set your toe in, if your props spin out then toe out, about an 1/8" this compensates for the different forces the drives see and puts them at Neutral under load. Toe in is nose cones are closer than prop shafts, you can also use the skegs just below the bullet for a measuring point. I spin my props in, and have my toe in 1/8" Per Brett at BBlades most boats will gain a little speed even non steped deep Vs spinning in which creats bow lift. Of course on the speeds we see with these boats we are probably splitting atoms with a lot of these tweeks, but thats the theory on it. I do see 71 gps in ideal conditions with stock 502 mags with almost 600 hours and Labbed 25 Mirage plus props.

1) Change impeller every year, rebuild sea pump every three years

2) Play around with it and use a GPS to measure any difference. Send the props to BBlades if you want the most out of them.

I took a measurement at the top of the transom mount at the grease fitting which on mine is center on each drive. then measure center of prop shaft and added 1/8 since I was spinning in.

Now i'm not claiming to be an expert by any means but it makes more sense to me to toe in or out opposite of the spin direction of your props to keep it neutral under laod. When you are spining your props in under load centrifical force will cause drives to want to turn in closer togeteher. If you then toe the drives in an 1/8 then under load it will make the drives toe in even more. By toeing out 1/8 you should counter act the centrifical forces of the props spining under load and thus nutralize the two. I will agree with the whole in or out decision, I dont think it makes all that much difference and most everyone I know runs in.