Random Orbital Buffers vs DA
#1
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: LI, New York
Looking to spend around $300. Too Stroked made the distinction between random orbital machines, DA's and true Rotary Polishers. I buff out my boat 3 to 4 times a summer with a DA. I usually use a foam pad with some kind of oxidation remover and follow it up with a pure wax. Im torn betwee the random orbital rotary buffers and a true Flex PE14-2-150. Too stroked mentioned the random orbitals are good for what they are, but don't take off much anyways. My main uses are going to be polishing out boat after wetsanding, usually 1000grit scratches, maybe 800 at some point....gelcoat. I also want the ability to do my cars without messing up the paint. Will the Flex 3401drg be able to do both jobs or would a DA?
#2
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 316
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From: Sunny California!!
Hey Mastercraft,
I would recommend the Flex hands down. I have been buffing out cars, trucks, and boats for more years than I'd care to mention and a rotary buffer is the industry standard for sure.
If you haven't had the chance yet to work with a rotary type buffer, it will seem heavy and bulky at first compared to a DA but you will be totally happy with the performance!
Plus, there are times I'm sure when you've had to "bear down" on something and more than likely the DA would just stop whereas the rotary will keep going!
You just need to be a bit more careful on the edges and corners with a rotary but it sounds like you have plenty of polishing experience and I did check out the post of the blue boat you buffed out which looked awesome!
I'm currently using the Norton "ICE" buffing pad/compound set-up. Norton has a 3 pad system where you keep the same polishing compound thru all three pads. The 3rd pad is for dark to black colors to remove the swirl marks.
Glassdave is another excellent person for recommendations!
I would recommend the Flex hands down. I have been buffing out cars, trucks, and boats for more years than I'd care to mention and a rotary buffer is the industry standard for sure.
If you haven't had the chance yet to work with a rotary type buffer, it will seem heavy and bulky at first compared to a DA but you will be totally happy with the performance!
Plus, there are times I'm sure when you've had to "bear down" on something and more than likely the DA would just stop whereas the rotary will keep going!
You just need to be a bit more careful on the edges and corners with a rotary but it sounds like you have plenty of polishing experience and I did check out the post of the blue boat you buffed out which looked awesome!
I'm currently using the Norton "ICE" buffing pad/compound set-up. Norton has a 3 pad system where you keep the same polishing compound thru all three pads. The 3rd pad is for dark to black colors to remove the swirl marks.
Glassdave is another excellent person for recommendations!
Last edited by Haley'sComet; 03-02-2011 at 06:28 PM.
#3
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,087
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From: Lake Dallas, TX
Hey Mastercraft,
I would recommend the Flex hands down. I have been buffing out cars, trucks, and boats for more years than I'd care to mention and a rotary buffer is the industry standard for sure.
If you haven't had the chance yet to work with a rotary type buffer, it will seem heavy and bulky at first compared to a DA but you will be totally happy with the performance!
Plus, there are times I'm sure when you've had to "bear down" on something and more than likely the DA would just stop whereas the rotary will keep going!
You just need to be a bit more careful on the edges and corners with a rotary but it sounds like you have plenty of polishing experience and I did check out the post of the blue boat you buffed out which looked awesome!
I'm currently using the Norton "ICE" buffing pad/compound set-up. Norton has a 3 pad system where you keep the same polishing compound thru all three pads. The 3rd pad is for dark to black colors to remove the swirl marks.
Glassdave is another excellent person for recommendations!
I would recommend the Flex hands down. I have been buffing out cars, trucks, and boats for more years than I'd care to mention and a rotary buffer is the industry standard for sure.
If you haven't had the chance yet to work with a rotary type buffer, it will seem heavy and bulky at first compared to a DA but you will be totally happy with the performance!
Plus, there are times I'm sure when you've had to "bear down" on something and more than likely the DA would just stop whereas the rotary will keep going!
You just need to be a bit more careful on the edges and corners with a rotary but it sounds like you have plenty of polishing experience and I did check out the post of the blue boat you buffed out which looked awesome!
I'm currently using the Norton "ICE" buffing pad/compound set-up. Norton has a 3 pad system where you keep the same polishing compound thru all three pads. The 3rd pad is for dark to black colors to remove the swirl marks.
Glassdave is another excellent person for recommendations!
#4
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 658
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From: Splendora, TX
I have the FLEX dual action buffer. It is made extremely well and does not slow down when you add pressure, but I am not getting the results I was hoping to get. If I had to do it all over again, I would have purchased the FLEX rotory buffer over the dual action.
#5
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 848
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If you are doing major buffing of heavy oxidation you need a rotary buffer. But as you know it is easy to burn through the paint if you are not careful...If you just want to put a shine on paint that is not heavily oxidized then you can use the orbital.



