Dodge ABS problem, driving me nuts !
#1
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,008
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From: Traverse City, Michigan
2002 Dodge 2500 V-10
When braking the ABS will activate as the truck slows. Usually around 10-15 mph. If I release the pedel and reappy the problem will not occur.
No warning light on panel.
Pads good, fluid level good.
Any suggestions ?
ed
When braking the ABS will activate as the truck slows. Usually around 10-15 mph. If I release the pedel and reappy the problem will not occur.
No warning light on panel.
Pads good, fluid level good.
Any suggestions ?
ed
#3
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,306
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
If it only does it when coming to a stop then the air gap between the sensor and the stater in the wheel is to big..after years rust builds up under the sensors and lifts the sensor off of where it sits,,it dont take much and it will think your tires are slipping..the fixx! remove the abs sensors and clean the rust off where they rest..take a file and make the surface flat,clean the base of the sensor,Greece the filed surface and reinstall the sensors..i mainly happens to the front sensors bit i would do the rear one as well which is located either on top of the diff or if its a 4x4 it may be in the transfer case..
do this step only if you dont have a abs code..
do this step only if you dont have a abs code..
#4
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From: Mine Hill, NJ/Lake Hopatcong, NJ
Above sounds 100% correct. For testing, if I recall correctly (years since a mechanic) you can test a sensor by removing it then with an ohm meter attached to it you will get a reading. Then take a piece of iron, or anything magnetic and swipe it close to the face of the sensor. This should cause a raise or reduction in ohms. I believe it also works on AC volts as well. The faster you swipe back and forth the higher the voltage. Once again, I'm not 100% but I think that's how I've tested them in the past.
If you have an lab scope (snap-on vantage or equivalent) it should graph exactly what's happening to the millisecond. Good luck.
If you have an lab scope (snap-on vantage or equivalent) it should graph exactly what's happening to the millisecond. Good luck.
#5
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From: Traverse City, Michigan
If it only does it when coming to a stop then the air gap between the sensor and the stater in the wheel is to big..after years rust builds up under the sensors and lifts the sensor off of where it sits,,it dont take much and it will think your tires are slipping..the fixx! remove the abs sensors and clean the rust off where they rest..take a file and make the surface flat,clean the base of the sensor,Greece the filed surface and reinstall the sensors..i mainly happens to the front sensors bit i would do the rear one as well which is located either on top of the diff or if its a 4x4 it may be in the transfer case..
do this step only if you dont have a abs code..
do this step only if you dont have a abs code..
Thanks,
ed
ed
#6
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: NJ
If it only does it when coming to a stop then the air gap between the sensor and the stater in the wheel is to big..after years rust builds up under the sensors and lifts the sensor off of where it sits,,it dont take much and it will think your tires are slipping..the fixx! remove the abs sensors and clean the rust off where they rest..take a file and make the surface flat,clean the base of the sensor,Greece the filed surface and reinstall the sensors..i mainly happens to the front sensors bit i would do the rear one as well which is located either on top of the diff or if its a 4x4 it may be in the transfer case..
do this step only if you dont have a abs code..
do this step only if you dont have a abs code..
#7
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
sometimes you end up replacing the wheel hubs and rotors from beating them to death getting them off..
#8
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From: Traverse City, Michigan
It will most likely be the front sensors,,first check for front wheel bearing play,if any replace the front wheel bearing assemblys(common problem with dodge) again thats if its a 4x4..if the front wheel bearings are ok then you will still have to remove the front wheel bearing assemblys to acess the abs sensors because thet are behind the brake rotor..and they can be a bear to get off because or rust,,soak then with pb blaster before attempting to remove them..if they are froze on the spindle then you may have to rent a front hub puller, here is the one i have and use. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...:0&tx=94&ty=57
sometimes you end up replacing the wheel hubs and rotors from beating them to death getting them off..
sometimes you end up replacing the wheel hubs and rotors from beating them to death getting them off..
ed
#9
There is also a hub removal tool that looks like a deepwell socket without the hole drilled in it. You insert it between a hub bolt (loosened out) and the axle. Then you use the power steering to force the "socket" against the axle, pushing on the bolt. Honest to God it pops the hub right out. I cant find it on line but got it from a tool guy at the dealer. You could probably improvise with a deep impact socket.
#10
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Greenwood Lake, NY
You can make that tool very easily by finding which socket/extension combo works. I believe I used a shallow socket and a 3 inch extension. After loosening all the hub bolts way up, you can put the tool on the hub bolt, rest it on the axle and turn the wheel to push the hub out. I've had mine apart twice and it has always come out without even starting the truck to use the power steering. If you look around on Diesel Truck Resource there is a ton of info on there. I don't know if you necessarily have to remove the hub to get at the sensor. The ABS on my 96 was awful, I actually removed the senors and disabled the system. Modern systems are great, the antiquated one in my truck was simply dangerous.
John
John


