Since I have an OB boat I'm assuming the transom replacement ill be a pain in the azz. Besides having the wells to deal with, I also will need to add knees. Attached are 2 pics to help understand what I mean. Its pouring here so no specific pics of transom.

Question is, should I cut the last 6" of deck, just enough to dig it from the top, the whole well of do it from the outside? Thanks in advance, George

If you don't want to take the entire deck off, I'd cut it where it's smallest, where the area to repair is minimized. Probally at where the corners of the rear seat would be, removing that section, giving you enough room to work.

Agreed,

That is how I did mine, made the job much easier to work upright vs. laying in the bilge doing glasswork.

Should I cut the deck on a 45 or straight? Or is it soo thin that it doesn't actually matter? Plan on getting it done after work.

Did mine on a 45, Been running it hard for a year now, and no stresscracks in that area. Make sure you cut it in an area that you can access the backside well when you glass it back together.

I replaced stringers by cutting off the very top with a sawzall, then used an electric chain saw to remove the remaining wood down to the bottom on the boat. The epoxied plywood slid in perfectly. I seen a youtube video doing the same for an outboard transom repair, but they just filled up the transom with epoxie without any wood.

Man, I'd have a tough time trusting that repair. The true strength comes from fibers (plywood, Balsacore, glass mat, Penske board, etc.) held together by a resin. I'd be willing to bet that an all expoxy resin transom would be pretty flexible - and that's not what you want.

This was a low hp boat using all epoxy for the repair. The existing outer and inner fiberglass was sound so im sure the repair was way better than the strength of the transom that was in service the day before. My main point was there are other options for repairs in situations where only the wood was rotted and replacing a sound glass shell or refinishing the outer gel can be avoided. Might not apply here for the transom but may apply somewhere else in this project.

Ah, now I feel a little bit better. For a 9.9 HP on a blow boat or something, that might work. Call me silly, but I get kind of picky on construction - particularly on an outboard transom. I really hate it when I whack the throttle and the transom - with outboard attached - passes me by.