Ok so I was getting ready to replace my exahaust manifolds when I notive that the paint looked like it was lift on the p-side of transom at the bottom right beside the outdrive mount. As I inspected more it feels like a soft spot about 12"x12". Now to feel the soft spot you have to put a good amount of pressure on the transom to feel it...After more inspecting it looks like there has been transom work done before as the paint is a different color white. This different color white extends about two foot past each side of the outdrive.. My question is if I let the boat air out for a couple of months and let the wood dry could I not lay a couple of layers of glass on the soft spot to strengthen it..If not does any one have any idea of pricing to replace transom?

I think you first need to find out where the water is leaking that caused the plywood to rot. Probably leaking around the outdrive seal. The leak will only get worse as time goes on and cause more of the plywood to rot. That plywood is what gives the transom its strength. The correct way to do it is replace the transom. There are a couple of good threads on here that will show you whats involved in doing it yourself. Not to sure what the going rate is for replacement.

The only water leak is the exhaust manifolds..Bought the boat two months ago..Fixing the manifolds this week.. The outside of the transom is very solid...Not that I am trying to make excuses for not replacing the transom..I am just wondering if I let it dry for a couple of months than seal would this work.. The paint has pealed up by the bottom of the transom i the engine compartment..when I looked a little more it appears that they did deal the top side of the drain plug whole..was thinking about taking a piece of mat and resin and seal it after the wood dries..When you press on the transom on the inside of the engine compartment by the outdrive it has a little give on the passenger side..the part that gives is about 12x12 inches.. Just asking if anyone has ever done what I am thinng or am I just waisting time and money

What caused the plywood to go soft? That area must be wet if you say you need to let it dry out. If it is wet, water is getting in somewhere. In my opinion just adding glass isn't going to work. Can you post some pics?

Take small coring with a drill bit in that area. If the chips come out dry you are good and you might have small delaminated area that can be repaired. If the chips come out wet or black, you've got a problem.

Right where the drain plug is.If you pull the whole plug assembly out you see where the is exposed wood on the top side.. It was never sealed...Also on the lower side of the transom by the bottom it looks either the paint or glass has pulled up on one side where the soft spot is..I will take some pics today

Ok here is where the water has been entering,,Obviously some did a crappy job seal job.

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_1563.jpg

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...1/IMG_5201.jpg

So is the transom wet? and how far up 12" ? If it is wet I would pull it apart and replace. When they tried to repair this before they probably just added glass over the crack which is what will happen if you try and do the same thing, even if you let the area dry out. So when the boat is in the water you can't see any water coming in anywhere? or just where the drain plug is because it wasn't sealed? Can you reseal the drain plug,put the boat back in the water to make sure you don't have any other leaks? If you don't repair the plywood eventually the gel on the outside of the boat will start to crack. Sounds like a good winter project!

ok, listen here lol. I have plenty of experience with this, as I am into my second restoration, this one being on an 86 scarab 400. The wet wood will never dry. It cant. The fiberglass prevents the water from getting out. The plywood is like a spunge and sucks that water up and eventually the entire transom gets moist. The rot spreads like cancer. If you have a 12x12 spot thats soft, I recommend you do the transom or you will be wishing you did at the least opportune time. I used penske board in this restoration on my transom, it was 300.00 a sheet. My transom was bad, along with all the stringers in the engine compartment. I just finished gelcoating the engine compartment sunday. removing the transom is not hard, its just time consuming. With redoing my entire home at the same time, my project has taken more time then I had liked but now the house is done and it has my full attention.

I appreciate the coments. I have been leaning towards getting it done this winter..I have never replace a transom myself so I am not that familiar on what I should pay to have ot done.