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Best core material for windscreen to replace windshield

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Old 10-01-2011 | 08:00 PM
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Default Best core material for windscreen to replace windshield

Thinking of building a custom windscreen this winter to replace the windshield of my scarab. I want to build the support structure out of something really easy to shape and add some contours/curves to but then be able to coat it with fiberglass resin and maybe some mat(if needed) and have a strong and rigid structure. I was thinking sculpturing foam but know sure how this will react to fiberglass resin and will it have the strength required? Any help would be appreciated!

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Old 10-01-2011 | 08:19 PM
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Is the structure a high contour piece or linear (flat panel) piece? For flat stuff you could use Coosa. If it's realitivly high contour you need a high density core in the five or six pound range. For that you'll need to buy foam in billets and loft the rough shape then hand shape. You will need a poly foam and not styrene. None of the stuff at home depot will work.
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Old 10-01-2011 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by glassdave
Is the structure a high contour piece or linear (flat panel) piece? For flat stuff you could use Coosa. If it's realitivly high contour you need a high density core in the five or six pound range. For that you'll need to buy foam in billets and loft the rough shape then hand shape. You will need a poly foam and not styrene. None of the stuff at home depot will work.
Glassdave, I was hoping you would reply

It will be mostly flat panels but I want to create some area for gauges and stuff on the back side of the windshield. The front side of the windshield will look pretty much the same except for maybe some rounding of the corners. Here is a pic of what the windshield looks like today!

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Old 10-02-2011 | 07:51 AM
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What about NIDA Core?
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Old 10-02-2011 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Audiofn
What about NIDA Core?
I looked at that stuff, any idea how machinable it is? My thought was to do all the heavy routing and blending of corners of the foam and than cover it with 6-8 coats of fiberglass resin! Maybe I am going about this the wrong way?
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Old 10-02-2011 | 06:21 PM
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You can bend corners with it if you curf cut one side. It can bend fairly tight. It will not do a curve in 2 directions. You could maybe juse foam on turns that this stuff could not make but use this stuff in your strait areas?
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Old 10-02-2011 | 07:17 PM
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It's a lot of work.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...ula-302-a.html

..just bustin' bro.

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Old 10-02-2011 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggus
It's a lot of work.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...ula-302-a.html

..just bustin' bro.

Yup saw that thread! Actually read every page, definitely a ton of work!

I would love to do something with the windshield though. Wonder how it would look if I painted the frame white and did something with the glass??
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Old 10-08-2011 | 02:06 PM
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Default Faring

Whenever l build a faring, I will build a quick mold.it will save you a ton of time on finish work.I may still have the one l made for my s-type call me if I can help, christian 9104318876
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Old 10-09-2011 | 09:46 AM
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I am considering this on my Cig 24 and storing the original windshield frame. The original glass in the frame has been long replaced by aluminum sheet for racing, but I want to have a smooth look on the outside (and inside).

The windshield construction is very similar to yours (probably made by American WS also).

I have few questions and ideas concerning this.

First, I want to keep mine bolt on like the original so I can easily remove it and put it back to "stock" if I change my mind years from now.

I was considering using 3/4" thick Starboard (HDPE), the standard or most likely the "lite" version...both of which are rated to "hold screws".

Also since it can be bought in a smooth gloss black finish I would not have to worry about painting or finishing the windshield.

Since my windshield is angular/faceted each piece would be a straight part so no curves to deal with.

My only slight concern is "bonding" those angles together strong...without having any exposed braces etc.

I had also considered black Acrylic and I am more familiar with bonding that stuff edge to edge...but I think it may be more prone to cracking than the HDPE stuff??

Of course I have thought of just "skinning" the outside of the original for a smooth look too, along with making a mold for a 1 piece gelcoat/fiberglass part..but the HDPE seems awfully simple..IF I can figure out a strong simple "hidden" way to bond the joints at the angles ?????

Decisions, decisions....any tips/ideas appreciated. Also, if anyone knows of a product to bond edges of HDPE together please let me know.

Overall pic showing windshield as is.. FYI, large aluminum race dash shown is already removed and original Cig dashboard is underneath it :-)


A pic before I got it that shows the signature Cig 24 Windshield and the aluminum race dash...


..and a couple from the Factory Lit showing it with the glass in it.



Last edited by 78CIG24; 10-09-2011 at 10:03 AM.
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