Question for you guys, I just got a boat with twin 462 BBC's. I had the pleasure of taking it out once and had fun for the 5 minutes it lasted until oil pressure dropped in one motor. pulled engine and all the bearings (rods and mains) were damaged enough to where I think I lost the crank. both engines were rebuilt by same shop. I found the engine that I pulled had #7 connecting rod cap on #5 rod and vise versa (not real impressed). They only had 50hrs and I am not comfortable with running other engine until I can pull it next spring. Is there a way to "winterize" the engine without running it? I was thinking of just removing the thermostat housing and putting consintrate antifreeze directly under thermostat and opening the lower drains on the block until antifreeze comes out. Any other ideas? Thanks

Drain the motors completely, and reinstall the block drains. Then pull the hose off the thermostat housing and fill the engine with antifreeze until it runs out the exhaust. Thats how I do mine everytime.

Dont forget to pull the hoses off the sea water pump, oil and transmission coolers if equipped to get all the water out of the system.

Good luck.

drain all water first in block and exhaust and hoses and fill with antifreeze should be good to go. Mike

get all that water out

As has already been stated, block plugs (2), exhaust manifold plugs (2), circulating pump on the front of the motor (pull the big hose), power steering cooler, chiller / intercooler (if equipped), raw water pump. No need to run the motor at all. Filling with anti-freeze is optional as long as you got all the water out. Don't forget any water systems on the boat, and the drives. Stabilize the gas.

Filling with antifreeze is a good idea, even though all water is out. Most antifreeze contains a rust inhibittor, and a block that is empty can develop rust during the winter. That is what I do with the 496's in the cruiser. You can also remove the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil or WD40 ect. into the cylinders as well..

ab,
I would pull the oil filter and have it cut open so you can stretch out the filter element and take a look. If it is clean with no bearing material or other debris, I would put a new filter on and start it up and winterize it like normal. That will get the fogging oil spread much better than just putting it in through the plug holes. Same goes for the cooling system.

If there is any evidence of bearing failure etc in the filter, then revert back to plan B and follow all of the other excellent suggestions.

Just my opinion,

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

Thanks guys!! Just got out of racing an alcohol funny car and I am impressed on the way the "hot rod boating" community is. Lot like Drag racing. Anyway lots of great suggestions. But I have one more for you; The previous owner ran amsoil 20w50 synthetic and from what I have read on this site, its pretty popular.. Is there any thoughts of winterizing the power plants by running like a 15w40 diesel oil to kind of "clean" up the rotating parts then put the amsoil back in in spring?

The 15w40 certainly won't hurt anything, but as long as you keep up on your oil changes, should not be required. I do all my service in the fall, put fresh oil in and I'm ready to go at the first sign of spring.

I run rotella t 15-40 all the time in my 350s