offshore motor plate setup ?????
#1
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,527
Likes: 706
From: Taunton Ma
My boat was converted to bravos a few years back and only front engine plates were installed.
I've seen a lot of bravo boats and trs boats done this way but i'm thinking about adding rear plates since i have a set and i'm in the process of repowering and removing the extension boxes. the only things i don't have are the angle brackets that bolt to the stringers (easy enough to make) and time lol. anyone have thoughts on this why or why not to run them ? i'm thinking it will strengthen the structure of the boat, but will be a major pain to bolt them in in the middle under the headers
I've seen a lot of bravo boats and trs boats done this way but i'm thinking about adding rear plates since i have a set and i'm in the process of repowering and removing the extension boxes. the only things i don't have are the angle brackets that bolt to the stringers (easy enough to make) and time lol. anyone have thoughts on this why or why not to run them ? i'm thinking it will strengthen the structure of the boat, but will be a major pain to bolt them in in the middle under the headers
#2
Platinum Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,195
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, TX
We got a old block and installed the front and rear motor plates. Now you use the drive alignment tool to get the engine in position to align the drive. You start to position the L-brackets and start the process to get all set up to install and thru bolt the angle plates to the stringers...nothing can move. As we were using Stellings boxes with drive shafts, we had to only had to be concerned about the R&L alignment vs. both R&L and U&D. If you plan to use a standard Bravo drive set-up, you will be better off using an old short block so you can install the flywheel and flex plate as you want to get a perfect alignment in all directions. With solid mounts, you will no longer be able to move the engine to align the drives. This is a big project and IMO it is mostly over kill unless you are racing.
Oh...when you tighten everything in the mount system and the L-brackets to the stringers, everything moves...now pull the alignment tool, tweak, pull...tweak, etc..etc
If this doesn't make you rethink a 4-point mount Bravo system without using drive shafts, maybe somebody else can explain an easier way. Were the 4-point Bravo installs you have seen using a straggered set-up?
Oh...when you tighten everything in the mount system and the L-brackets to the stringers, everything moves...now pull the alignment tool, tweak, pull...tweak, etc..etc
If this doesn't make you rethink a 4-point mount Bravo system without using drive shafts, maybe somebody else can explain an easier way. Were the 4-point Bravo installs you have seen using a straggered set-up?



