Hey everyone,

Last summer had a 330 built 468 built. In the process of tearing it apart to up the power for this year. As of now I am putting a set of 781 heads on with 2.19 intake and 1.88 ex valves, ported and gasket matched. Dual plane high rise intake, 850 holley, it has a cam don't remember spec, but may be changing it out with this build. Waiting to pull the cam so I can give the specs to Bob at kinetic marine. I'm also pulling the pan to put a large volume pan on.

Here is were I'm questioning a few things. I've gone this far, I'm thinking about looking for a b&m 250 (my ultimate goal is to have a blower). If I do that I'm thinking about a set of forged pistons so I can have some blower friendly pistons. I have a new crank, but its not a steel crank. I have 3/8 bolt rods. Will my rods be ok if I use arp bolts? Will my crank do ok or is a steel crank a must? This started as a simple power bump from heads.

Whats every ones thoughts?

Forged pistons for blower while its apart.
3/8 rods with arp bolts?
Will crank live with 5000 max rpm and boost?

I'm not a WOT demon. More of a fast cruise 3500-3800 rpm.


I've been asking tons of questions lately. Thanks for all the replies!!

Cp

Buy a complete rotating assembly. Forged crank, good rods and pistons. If it were me...I'd call Eagle. I dont think you'll go wrong with their quality and price for what your getting, and what your building. Tell them exactly what you wanna build. Its better to KNOW you have good stuff in your marine motor....than to guess if it will hold up.

You will get a ton of opinions stating you must run forged components. I did something similar a few yeas back. I took 7.4 liter LX's kept the cast rotating assembly removed the heads, installed aluminum heads,new cam, 250 blower with 5 pounds of boost. The engines lived for 5 seasons. The engines also had about 250 hours on them before I made the upgrades.

So what I am saying is it all depends.

Jaso

Thanks for the replies.

Jason what carb did you run?