Guest 2661a onboard charger question
05-23-2012 | 07:43 PM
#2
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 294
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From: Overland Park, KS
yes you can, I've done it all day while working on the boat, just make sure the current draw of whatever accessory running is less than the amperage of the charger, if you want he batteries to still charge that is.
05-23-2012 | 08:47 PM
#3
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,030
Likes: 9
From: L
Yep. If the charger is large enough, that's considered 'dock side power' feature.
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05-24-2012 | 10:58 AM
#5
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,030
Likes: 9
From: L
Probably will loose some ground with fridge and a stereo running with the 2/5 charger
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
05-24-2012 | 11:00 AM
#6
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 390
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From: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
How big is the frig? Looking at new examples on Defender - http://www.defender.com/refrigeration.jsp
If it is 1.5-3 cuft, it PROBABLY draws less than 3.5amps and it will be marginally ok. An older unit may draw more however. 3.2 cu starts a 5amp draw which would be bad.
The problem is, that little charger wants to do just that, CHARGE the battery. To give the ideal battery profile it will attempt to raise the voltage subtatntially but the frig will be pulling on it for close to the full amount of the charger.
Eventually (within a year) the charger components will fail.
The deeper the battery discharge the worse on the charger.
Same thing with trying to run more than a stereo HU. An amplifier will want way more than that little charger can deliver and it will burn up. I have a buddy that has gone through a 40amp charger every year because he tries to bump the stereo off the gen powering the charger after the battery dies.
If the draw is greater, need to get a more powerful charger or better yet a power supply like IOTA's IQ4 or Kinetik. Those PS are intelligent enough to recognize a draw and go into power supply mode where they will produce power but not burn up trying to charge optimally, then move into optimal charge when possible.
If it is 1.5-3 cuft, it PROBABLY draws less than 3.5amps and it will be marginally ok. An older unit may draw more however. 3.2 cu starts a 5amp draw which would be bad.
The problem is, that little charger wants to do just that, CHARGE the battery. To give the ideal battery profile it will attempt to raise the voltage subtatntially but the frig will be pulling on it for close to the full amount of the charger.
Eventually (within a year) the charger components will fail.
The deeper the battery discharge the worse on the charger.
Same thing with trying to run more than a stereo HU. An amplifier will want way more than that little charger can deliver and it will burn up. I have a buddy that has gone through a 40amp charger every year because he tries to bump the stereo off the gen powering the charger after the battery dies.
If the draw is greater, need to get a more powerful charger or better yet a power supply like IOTA's IQ4 or Kinetik. Those PS are intelligent enough to recognize a draw and go into power supply mode where they will produce power but not burn up trying to charge optimally, then move into optimal charge when possible.
Last edited by ChargeIt; 05-24-2012 at 11:03 AM.
05-24-2012 | 12:28 PM
#7
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 22
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It is smaller, and older I would guess 2 cu ft by looking at the defender website.
The fridge came stock in my 85 baja force 250. It is 12v only, which from my reading is much less amp draw than a 3 way RV fridge
The fridge came stock in my 85 baja force 250. It is 12v only, which from my reading is much less amp draw than a 3 way RV fridge
