Small Block Intake,, Which One??
#1
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From: Kissimmee, Fl.
Just about ready for the intake for the 383. The only real question is, which one. I know that it would be a Performer RPM, or air gap, but the main concern is if I have it in salt a couple weekends a year what will happen to it? Could I ceramic coat the coolant passage, or buy the heavy cast iron version with coolant inserts? Just thinking (typing) out loud.
383 Vortec heads and for now XM270HR.
Thanks in advace.
383 Vortec heads and for now XM270HR.
Thanks in advace.
#2
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if you are really worried about the salt, just buy the cast iron one, but I think they are around 350 bucks.
I bought a used air gap rpm in new condition for 125 bucks. I then put a screw in pencil anode in the spare hole on the port side of the thermostat housing. Goes through the anodes but saves the aluminum. I boat in brackish/salt water but usually flush after every run except holidays/vacation time in the summer where it might stay in for a little while.
I bought a used air gap rpm in new condition for 125 bucks. I then put a screw in pencil anode in the spare hole on the port side of the thermostat housing. Goes through the anodes but saves the aluminum. I boat in brackish/salt water but usually flush after every run except holidays/vacation time in the summer where it might stay in for a little while.
#4
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From: L.I.,N.Y.
CC230, I boat in and raw water cool with salt water. This is an RPM Airgap that was five years old and flushed after every use. It didn't leak before it came off, and looks like it would have leaked out of the motor before it leaked in.


#5
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From: Bahamas
That doesn't look that bad fo five yeas. I use a neuta salt flushing system, that seems to work really well, and should stall the corrosion a little. Always looking fo ways to lighten the back of the boat up. About how much does your intake manifold weigh?
#7
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From: Fox Island, WA
I used the Z28 cast iron version of the original Z28 aluminum intake. It made a HUGE difference on my otherwise stock 350 MerCruiser 260. I gained 400 r.p.m. and gobs of torque with this change alone. For even more gains use the magnum flame arrestor and the metering rods from the magnum carb. The Carburetor Shop in Ontario CA helped me with the selection (Google the name for phone #). I finally fresh water cooled my 350s. Now I would be tempted to go with the air gap and use both the anode suggested above and flush with Salt-Away. I believe there is a 25 pound difference between the iron and the aluminum manifolds.
#8
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From: Kissimmee, Fl.
Maddad, that looks good for 5 years, and in salt full time. We will be doing brackish water a few times a year. (it's never been in salt yet) We do a lot of high mileage river running, I wouldn't want that to let go 75 miles away!
But on the other hand if it were coated and use that pencil anode, maybe last a little longer. I'm not in too much of a hurry but will have to do some searching.
Thanks!
But on the other hand if it were coated and use that pencil anode, maybe last a little longer. I'm not in too much of a hurry but will have to do some searching.
Thanks!
Last edited by CC230; 06-08-2012 at 11:51 AM.
#9
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Just about ready for the intake for the 383. The only real question is, which one. I know that it would be a Performer RPM, or air gap, but the main concern is if I have it in salt a couple weekends a year what will happen to it? Could I ceramic coat the coolant passage, or buy the heavy cast iron version with coolant inserts? Just thinking (typing) out loud.
383 Vortec heads and for now XM270HR.
Thanks in advace.
383 Vortec heads and for now XM270HR.
Thanks in advace.
http://www.castheads.com/marine_vortec_2_4_barrel.php
Thanks


