buffing out a single stage paint?
#1
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I reccently painted some parts with PPG Concept and the final finish didnt quite turn out as perfect as I wanted it. Can you buff out single stage like you do base/clear? If so, what method/grit do you use?
#2
yep but its best if you get on it within a day or two after painting? How long has it cured? 1000/2000/3000/4000 and buff. If you can do the 2-3-4000 with a DA a Mirkas Abralon you might have a better shot at getting sand scratches out.
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#5
when do you use 4000 grit ? i always buffed past 1500 and maybe 2000 git but rarely used that. Am I skipping steps?
#6
Wet sand it with what ever takes out the peel or texture. I would start with 1000, see how you like it. Then hit it with 12-1500, buff. If you are not familiar with a buffer then you might want to get some one that is.
John jr
John jr
#7
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From: westville, NJ
#8
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From: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
i do it the same way dave does.BTW is this a solid color or is it metallic?? if its solid then your good to go,metallic your sol,the metallic will change colors,best bet is to repaint...
when preparing a surface to buff if you start out with a 1000 grit then go to a 1500 grit you need to cross the pattern or you will still see the 1000 grit scratches..i usually wetsand all my stuff between coats of paint so its silky smooth then all i have to di is sand with a piece of rice paper..
when preparing a surface to buff if you start out with a 1000 grit then go to a 1500 grit you need to cross the pattern or you will still see the 1000 grit scratches..i usually wetsand all my stuff between coats of paint so its silky smooth then all i have to di is sand with a piece of rice paper..
#9
i usually start with 1000 on a DA dry then when i am happy it is level i step up to 2000 then on to three and four. The higher grits take all the work out of buffing and make it almost impossible for the dull swirl marks from the lower grits to make it through. Buffing 1500 and course cut coumpounds are a thing of the past, let the 2-3-4000 do the work and it only takes a whisk with the buffer for a final gloss. The biggest deterrent to this process is cost, typically when i do a boat in the mid thirty foot range i budget 4-5 hundred just for buffing supplies but its money very well spent in terms of time and end result. Mirka products have really brought the cost down and i actually like the Abralon disks over the (very pricey) 3M Trizak stuff although i still prefer the white 3M 1000 though but Norton will do in a pinch.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#10
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Oneida Lake NY
An inexperienced guy can do a lot of damage to a new paint job with 600 grit on a machine.




